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E-body crush can #3137031
04/10/23 08:51 PM
04/10/23 08:51 PM
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RTSE4ME Offline OP
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I want to change my crush can to one that is a bit shorter. Are A or B bodies crush cans shorter? Any others?
Car has a rim blow steering wheel.

Re: E-body crush can [Re: RTSE4ME] #3137033
04/10/23 09:00 PM
04/10/23 09:00 PM
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Iowa
burdar Offline
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A and B bodies don't use a crush can. The outer column body is designed to collapse in an accident. On an E-body, the outer column is solid. The crush can is what is designed to collapse in an accident. You can put a tuff wheel adapter on the E-body column which is shorter but then you've lost the built-in safety feature of the collapsible column. It has been debated in the past whether that's an issue or not.

I did see where someone once shortened their original crush can but still retained some of the "ribs" for safety purposes.

Re: E-body crush can [Re: burdar] #3137104
04/11/23 08:17 AM
04/11/23 08:17 AM
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Thanks, I see OER has a repo tuff wheel adapter but is out of stock.
I was thinking of cutting mine up.

Re: E-body crush can [Re: RTSE4ME] #3137115
04/11/23 09:04 AM
04/11/23 09:04 AM
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IMGTX Offline
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I replaced my crush can with a B Body tuff wheel adapter almost as soon as I got my car. Never regretted it. I could drive without the steering wheel in my face.

I put a 4 spoke grant steering wheel on it instead of the tuff wheel. The smaller grant wheel put the rim of the wheel in front of the speedometer and tach though. I put a monster tach over the clock and who needs a speedometer right..lol

On a side note the E body turn signal lever is long and has a heavy bend in it to put the lever near the wheel when used with the crush can. I swapped the turn signal lever to a B body lever which is perfect when using the tuff wheel adapter.

up

Re: E-body crush can [Re: RTSE4ME] #3137910
04/14/23 09:47 AM
04/14/23 09:47 AM
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West Coast, USA
jbc426 Offline
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You can have someone cut out the amount you want and tig it back together. A little prep-work and paint and you will never see the weld. A talented welder should leave it ready to paint. Probably cut it in a band saw or lathe to get it straight.


1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
Re: E-body crush can [Re: jbc426] #3138002
04/14/23 04:04 PM
04/14/23 04:04 PM
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I was planning on doing exactly that since I do have a friend who is a talented tig welder but.....
when I took the crush can off it was extremely difficult. Harder to pull than a balancer.
When I finally got it off I looked at it there was no master spline. So I am deciding on a new shorter adapter or modifying
the old one. The shorter one is on b/o till July

Re: E-body crush can [Re: RTSE4ME] #3138152
04/15/23 09:44 AM
04/15/23 09:44 AM
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Canada
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EW1BH27 Offline
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Originally Posted by RTSE4ME

When I finally got it off I looked at it there was no master spline.

IIRC, from the numerous times I've had my crush can removed, it did have a master spline. Look again and very closely, you want to 100% sure before it's welded back together.

Re: E-body crush can [Re: EW1BH27] #3138222
04/15/23 01:49 PM
04/15/23 01:49 PM
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I looked for an hour under a lightred magnifying glass.
Column splines are fine I see the master spline, I don't know maybe the person who put the adapter on just hammered it on.
Funny I measured what I need, the shorter adapter is the perfect length

Re: E-body crush can [Re: RTSE4ME] #3138225
04/15/23 02:10 PM
04/15/23 02:10 PM
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Hamtramck, PA
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Alaskan_TA Offline
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Originally Posted by RTSE4ME
when I took the crush can off it was extremely difficult. Harder to pull than a balancer.
When I finally got it off I looked at it there was no master spline.


Car version has a master spline.

Truck version does not.

Re: E-body crush can [Re: RTSE4ME] #3138370
04/16/23 02:34 AM
04/16/23 02:34 AM
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Valencia, España
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The regular “non crush” wheel adapter makes to fit the steering wheel on an E Body so close to the dash pad that your hands can get in touch with it when turning around… a friend of mine installed one on his 70 ‘Cuda for a Tuff wheel and was not comfortable to drive due that reason.

I guess that’s one of the reason they were larger and made specificically for E bodies. The Dash pad “eyebrow” section over the cluster protudes more on them than on B and A bodies


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Re: E-body crush can [Re: IMGTX] #3138529
04/16/23 06:03 PM
04/16/23 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by IMGTX
I replaced my crush can with a B Body tuff wheel adapter almost as soon as I got my car. Never regretted it. I could drive without the steering wheel in my face.

I put a 4 spoke grant steering wheel on it instead of the tuff wheel. The smaller grant wheel put the rim of the wheel in front of the speedometer and tach though. I put a monster tach over the clock and who needs a speedometer right..lol

On a side note the E body turn signal lever is long and has a heavy bend in it to put the lever near the wheel when used with the crush can. I swapped the turn signal lever to a B body lever which is perfect when using the tuff wheel adapter.

up


I am liking this idea. Even though I do like my current rim blow it is expensive to restore or buy a repro. and big. Might be nice to try a bit smaller wheel and cheaper.
My car is so far removed from stock a nice aftermarket wheel might be better.

Re: E-body crush can [Re: Alaskan_TA] #3138544
04/16/23 06:44 PM
04/16/23 06:44 PM
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north of coder
moparx Offline
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Originally Posted by Alaskan_TA
Originally Posted by RTSE4ME
when I took the crush can off it was extremely difficult. Harder to pull than a balancer.
When I finally got it off I looked at it there was no master spline.


Car version has a master spline.

Truck version does not.




i remember that now about the trucks. but it does not involve a crush can for a tuff wheel.
i had a truck one time the wheel was too big for my liking.
i got a smaller diameter wheel, which also had a bigger and way more comfortable grip, from a chrysler in the junkyard.
it fit perfectly, although having a master spline broached into the hub. as the female part of the master spline was in the hub of the chrysler wheel, i could put it on any way i wanted. the horn wire connected just as the truck wheel did, and that was a plus as well.
it took a couple of tries to get it on straight after several road trips, but a couple of splines "around" later, it went "straight" down the road. boogie
beer

Re: E-body crush can [Re: RTSE4ME] #3139343
04/19/23 07:25 PM
04/19/23 07:25 PM
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Looking for a way out of Middl...
IMGTX Offline
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Here is a picture of what I ended up with after I ditched the crush can, for the Short adapter and Tuff Wheel style. I then ditched that for this Grant Wheel.

This is just a regular Grant GT 4 Spoke with the stubby wheel adapter that Grant sells.

This was a long time ago but I am sure they still sell these type of wheels.

Chris in Car.jpg
Re: E-body crush can [Re: IMGTX] #3139562
04/20/23 05:24 PM
04/20/23 05:24 PM
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Thanks for the info. I ended up getting a nice retro Tuff wheel in leather with nice billet adapter.
Nice part everything was in stock and less than 1/2 what I was expecting to spend.

Re: E-body crush can [Re: RTSE4ME] #3139582
04/20/23 07:05 PM
04/20/23 07:05 PM
Joined: May 2005
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Florida
BDW Online content
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How about a pic?

Re: E-body crush can [Re: BDW] #3139596
04/20/23 08:12 PM
04/20/23 08:12 PM
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Don't have it just bought it today.
Here is the one I purchased

tuff wheel.jpg
Re: E-body crush can [Re: EW1BH27] #3139650
04/21/23 12:32 AM
04/21/23 12:32 AM
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IL us
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ink Offline
mopar
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Originally Posted by EW1BH27
Originally Posted by RTSE4ME

When I finally got it off I looked at it there was no master spline.

IIRC , from the numerous times I've had my crush can removed, it did have a master spline. Look again and very closely, you want to 100% sure before it's welded back together.
x 2 at least try it several ways first.

Last edited by ink; 04/21/23 12:37 AM.






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