i guess it's my turn for asking about an engine built with what parts are available. also known as "stuff laying around and thrown together".
440 block bored .030 over. decked. eagle crank and rods. unknown pistons [i forget] lightly worked performer RPM heads and intake. carb will be a sorted out 850cfm thermo-quad. measured 11.2 : 1 compression. old MP 590 cam in at 105. TTI 2"/2 1/8" step headers. 3 1/2" pipes to 3" x pipe, then 3" to rear. mufflers not decided upon yet.
38-4000 stall converter in mildly prepped 727 with manual valve body. 3.91 rear gear. 29x12.50 rear tires.
this mess will be dropped into my 69 charger, for better or worse.
i know this is not the [best ?] combination one should pursue, but it is what i have, so in it goes.

let the flaming begin. i can take it !

If you don't test you don't learn
Some of my junk motors ran better or just as good as my "do it right, don't cut any corner motors"
Did you check lift at the retainers yet? If not you should, I've seen more than one new Mopar "590" be one of the smaller grinds

glad you mentioned that Cab.
it has crane gold rockers, and i haven't tested that. i also have some rockers that appear to be some comp stainless i might try.
and like you said, you don't learn unless you try, and fail..........
hopefully, sometime this summer i will find out if this is a disaster, or works better than i think.

With fresh air, colder coolant, good quench and provided you dressed the piston tops sharp edges...you should be able to get by on 93 pump gas. I'd prob run the cam around 102/103 ICL and I'd hunt for a cheap rebuildable old school 4779 and put a proform body on it. Carb spacer will help some.

My first thought was the cam might be a tad big for a dual plane intake, but maybe not? Other than that, i'd run it.

pistons were dressed.
i also thought about advancing the cam a few degrees more, and checking the valve to piston clearance.
the adapter needed for the carb and intake is 3/4" high and is open. i can possibly go higher by using the [approximately] 1/4" thick factory carb gasket, but i need to check hood clearance. a drop base air filter will be needed, [and i have a couple on the shelf] but i don't know how big of a drop until the engine gets installed.
thanks for recommending the old 4779, but i really like the T-quads, and i have a bunch of jets and metering rods to play with.

Greg, i have an old CH4B i could try.
i also have an old torquer 2 on the shelf, but i just checked, and that intake is for a B engine.
i can throw the RPM intake on the bridgeport and do some whittling on it, but i don't want to screw it up.
anyone out there do any work on the plenum of the RPM intake ? if so, do you have any pictures ?

Sounds like a good plan. I think the performer is a good choice of what you have, since it will work great up to what. 5000 rpm? Some tricks may extend that higher, adding to the value of that choice. A small loss of power up to 6200 compared to some single planes, but the first half of the power band is very important. So if it were mine, i would install the cam as early as is within reason. 102?

i'm thinking to limit this combination to a 5900rpm shift[light] point, hoping the shift is completed by 6-6100.
with the car being heavy, i would be happy with a mid 12 et, maybe 105mph ?

Stock stroke? I think you will be surprised pleasantly either way. I would expect that to go 12s with template ported 906s, LY rods and heavy TRWs.

Kevin

We ran a very similar combo in a Duster. Ran 12 teen's with fender well headers and mufflers
Doug

11.2 to 1, edelbrock heads, and a 590. I wouldn't be disappointed, but I would be scratching my head why it wouldn't go 10's.
should go 11's no problem.

really ?? being that heavy ??
if it would dip into the 11's i would be so happy i couldn't contain myself.
if it happened into the 10's, even by a couple of thousandths, i would need dry undies, and my seat would be wet......
hopefully, sometime this summer i can find out and report back, good or bad.

i'm only about 55 or 60 miles north of you [north of Coder, of course ] in the big metropolis of brookville.

Chargers are heavy ! My 68 scaled @4100 raceweight and I ran a similar build several years back : 446, 264@.050 solid cam, ported E-Heads (Dwayne) 10.2 :1, street dominator intake, 850dp carb, 9.5 dynamic converter (4k stall), 295/65 MT drag radials, 4.10 Dana. Typical summer performance was 11.80's with a personal best of 11.65 @116 in good fall air.

The Holley SD is a low rise single plane that has a dual pattern flange so if you're really set on the spreadbore thermoquad that one will work fine and you will have no issues with hood clearance on a second gen Charger. I used a 1in phenolic spacer with a drop base air cleaner and cleared the stock hood. The RPM intake can fit with a 1.5in drop base but You would definately have hood clearance issues using a speadbore adapter on top of it to mount the T-quad and still run a descent air cleaner assembly.

The street dominator is approx 1in shorter and it has the correct (spreadbore) flange for your application.



Ron

No flames, But buy yourself a good engine program, I use Performance trends and pipemax. Do some good measurements and dump your parts into the program you will get a really close estimate of output and it will identify any short comings. Ove the years I have built scores of engines from piles of parts customers have brought in. I have a dyno and the program has been accurate within 10% on all of them, after we pull them on a real dyno. The program also calculates advance curves, idle vacuum, cranking compression, you can juggle fuel octane, as it also predicts possible detonation. The manual that comes with the program is also very good at explaining all the parameters of engine design as well. I used to teach engine building at a technical college, I used the program in class when lecturing about engine design.

Make sure you have enough fuel supply, volume, ,before hurting it due to leaning out the last 300 ft, in the 1/4 mile.
I make sure early in tuning all my new motors that I can fatten up the mixture enough to slow the MPH in the 1/4 mile If I can't I fix the problem, fuel line size, pickup size, pump volume, needles and seats or what ever is causing the problem

glad you brought up the fuel supply Cab.
i haven't decided on that yet, with the exception of a new reproduction stainless tank.
the car has a 3/8" line now, but could easily be upped to 1/2". i have converted factory sending units from the original 5/16" pickups to 3/8", and 1/2" would be done the same way. does anyone make a 1/2" pickup sock filter ?
as to the fuel pump, i'm undecided between a mechanical or electric, and if i go electric, whether to put the pump in the tank [the best place] or mount it on the frame rail.
mission creep never seems to fail..........