the line is used for blowing off parts & airing up tires. what air filter to elim moisture would you recommend? either reuseable element or replaceable. I'm thinking the line has 3/8 NPT fittings. thank you for your time. RR

I bought a dual unit that filters the air from the compressor and water and will (some day ) mount it between the compressor and the air lines

I had a filter on my nitrous pump rig that used a roll of toilet paper. That thing worked great.

thats interesting!

It's the motorguard M-60... Once the original filter is used up you can use a roll of toilet paper...M-60 link
I use one for painting, it works better than the conventional filters...

How serious do you want to get? A filter reg should work fine for you. It also sounds like you could use an auto drain, and cobbling together a drip leg to drop in the system someplace would be easy too.

I was very very skeptical of using a “toilet paper roll” filter to get the last bit of condensed water out of compressed air lines.

The first plasma arc cutter we bought in the early 1980s was “sputtering” and we tried 3 inline traps, but the toilet paper filter made the problem go away.

I later put eight toilet paper filters on four air feed lines to complicated air powered controllers on a 1200 hp coal “fluidized bed” coal dryer, using isolation valves so I could change filters without turning off the compressed air.

An old timer said to me several months later: I wished we had used those in the 1960s when this equipment was new.

The jobs PLC and microprocessors do on complicated equipment today,
used to be done by air powered mechanical computers
that were as complex inside as Swiss Watches.
They needed perfectly dry and oil free compressed air.

Short of an actual drier I have used the motorguard filters since 1983 or or so.

1. I run a large Dia. high pressure hose and fittings to isolate the the compressor from the 1" ? copper line.

2. The hose is then attached to a 1/2"NPT or larger coalescing filter right before the copper line.

3. At each drop there is another coalescing filter sized on intended use.

4. At the blast cabinet I place a larger coalescing fiter which feeds directly into the Motor Guard filter. The outlet the goes directly to the cabinet which has another coalescing filter.

5. My main drop sometimes used for painting and a plasma cutter has a 3/4"? NPT coalescing filter into a DeVilbiss CAMAIR CT30 desiccant dryer

I have NEVER had a water problem with the Motoguard M-60's when plumbed as above. Even at the blast cabinet which eats a lot of air. I do put a 1/8" petcock in the bottom of them and drain all after each use.

If you're running a long hose, a small inline filter should still be used when painting as a precautionary measure. They sell a desicant filled hose but I've never used one

Due to downsizing I do have one used and 1or 2 new M-60's and extra filters. Also might sell the Ct-30. if anyone is interested PM me the ct-30 is due for a new bag

I had a shop compressor with no filters, except for a small water trap, running air tools and always had to chase water in the Summer humidity. Had the toilet paper filter on the nitrous pump to protect it. Worked is all I can say.

Old body shop guy turned me onto it.

good comprehensive info. the drop link, is that a vertical dropped down section of pipe with a drain plug at the bottom plumbed into the system to drain water? who sells the toilet paper filter? I'd like to try it just for the novelty!

Drip leg can be plumbed right in line, deploying several if you want. Its a Galv T fitting that has your air passing through it side to side, but the bottom part will have a nipple hung off of it (10" should be fine). Ive thrown a union on the end of a nipple ( a union that i speak of here would be female by female thread) and buy a ball valve , then insert a press lock fitting to run a drain line to a container or outside.