Just thinking about what might need to be upgraded for the new 572 Hemi mostly street deal. I currently have 8" dynamic 5400, 727 with stock shafts and planitaries, but full metal jacket aluminum drum, billet servos, cope rmvb. a strange .080 wall drive shaft. Dana 60 with stock axles. Will i need to upgrade anything? It may see 6 or so passes just to get a time on it then retired to the back streets for that kind of fun.

Maybe step up to aftermarket axles and studs.

5/8 wheel studs, after market rear axles, billet 1350 trans and Dana yokes....Dana rear bearing support cover, and re-enforce the suspension. chassis connectors, remove dana pinion travel stopper, and find a different way...if still used. And lastly, a spool.....none of this clutch type posi stuff....

For the trans, #1 is the bolt in sprag...then steel drum and other stuff....

I would agree with all of the above. All of this has been done to mine also.

Stock planetaries? You need steel.
The stock Dana axles will take a lot of abuse. If I'm not mistaken, Jim Pranis had stock Dana axles in his 8 sec 3900 lb '68 hemi charger for a while. Personally, I'd rather see some good aftermarket axles and 5/8" studs.
If you do get good axles, don't waste money on 1/2" studs. Go 5/8" and be done. You won't regret it.

Boy, left a few things out. I do have the 1350 joints, bolt in sprag, spool and dana support cover. I use cal tracs with calvert shocks on rear. I thought maybe the planitaries would need to be upgraded to steel spline? Do have the wheel studs as well.

Sounds like you're good except for the planetaries.

My main thoughts were about the drive shaft and axles and will upgrade to the steel planets. Currently using 1/2" wheel studs. If i upgrade to 5/8", would that require new wheels as well?

No, you should be able to enlarge the stud holes in the wheels slightly for the bigger studs. That's what I did w/ my Centerlines.

Thinking about switching the gear this year from a 4.10 to a 3.73, so if the axles still look good I may just keep them.

I did this, and it was night and day for street driving for me in the big Hemi...

Glad to hear that. I always thought the 3.73 gear was a great gear for street/strip.

If you're taking it to the track, I'm thinking that after one look at the car, the tech guys will want aftermarket axles and extended wheel studs.
Especially if slicks are mounted.
Some tracks and/or tech guys are more demanding than others, but a wasted trip is irritating.

Which u-joints you use are a factor as well. Solid Spicer u-joints have worked flawlessly for me in race applications. They must use very good grease since they don't have grease fittings (which weaken the u-joint because of the fitting as well as the cross-drilling). Cap mounted grease fittings are likely stronger than the ones in the u-joint body. Even in mild applications with the best brand u-joints, a u-joint with a body-mounted fitting should be installed with the fitting area being in compression as the drivetrain rotates. It's the weakest link in the "chain" that will usually get ya!

Mine are solid and came from strange. I currently use 1/2” extended wheel studs. Been on the car a long time now. I always go on test day, so tech has never been an issue.

Drive shaft loop.

I do have one. At this point I’m thinking steel planets and will see how the axles look . Thanks guys

For 6 passes there is no need to upgrade anything.

It'll never hook well enough on the street to break a planetary, or any other driveline part.

I'm sure DVW will chime in, but his had hundreds of low 9 sec passes on stock planets, so I'm sure yours would last 6.

Save your time and money.

My street/strip combo: 3950 lb B body car w/driver, 572 Hemi, 5000 stall ATI converter, Hemi input shaft, billet steel front drum, hub, planetary, super Sprag, 3.5" CM driveshaft, 1350 joints, billet yokes. Dana 60, 4.10 Richmond gears, Detroit Locker, stock 23 spline 1967 axles, 1/2 x 3" DC studs. Caltrac bars, mono leafs and shocks. Car has run a best of 9.85 @ 136mph 1.37 60 ft. I Would switch to 5/8 studs but they won't work with the Cragar S/S wheels I run on the street. Next upgrade will be aftermarket axles since Iv'e been beating on the stock 23 splines for almost 40 years now, but I haven't decided if I want to keep the 23 spline Locker or switch to a 35 spline spool.

Don't think you can use 5/8 studs with stock axles anyway, think they're all screw in type not? so you don't have to worry about them.

I think you are right. Wouldn't break anything on the street ,but at the track, not sure. I use the M/T bracket radials and last time out at the track they were dead hooking pulling 1' wheelies til i tighten up the front shocks. Never ran a radial that hooked that good ever. It is a foot brake deal thou.

Sounds like its holding up well. My car should weight about 3300 with the Hemi and me in it. My axles are have been resplined to 35.

The trick to 1/2 studs is proper torque (100lbs) and a wheel that has enough surface area to contact the entire rotor/drum. Ran 750 passes with 1/2" studs in the high 1.2- low 1.3 60ft. Front planet carier looked bad at around 325 passes so it was swapped. The 2nd one went 400 passes when it stripped. The driveshaft is aluminum. The yokes are forged, not billet. 1350 solid Spicer u joints. The only drive train parts besides the planet it's broke are the rear wheels and 3 sets of Dana gears. It now has 5/8" studs and a steel front planet, stock trans shafts (850 passes)
Doug

I should be fine. I think since the trans is currently behind my 511 it should have a look inside before it gets behind the Hemi and i think i'll do the steel planets just to be safe. The Strange drive shaft was purchased as a forged yoke 1350 joints shaft combo. I will step up my wheel nut torque from 80 to 100 as you suggest. Thanks guys.

i did go in the 8s at 154mph with stock dana axles u will break the ft planetary it will rip the splines out of it my second 9 second pass did it