If it's an otherwise stock combo, with stock converter & AT and 3.23s, it's likely to be a bit soggy off idle, but will come on strongly above about 3,000 RPM.
Better to have a bit higher stall and/or more gear for that cam in a 383, especially at B-body weight.
Been there, done that. It's old technology, but if all the guy wants is a rumpity drive-in idle, it'll work.
A bit less duration and more lift would be better on the street, based on a street 406" SB I had. Still sounded healthy, but was more responsive off-idle.
I'd go with new EDM lifters; especially if the new cam doesn't have its lifters organized for the lobes they acted on.
That said, a buddy of mine has re-used a hyd FT cam & lifters in a subsequent street build with no problems.

Helping a friend do a cam swap in his 383. Currently has a 280/474 purple shaft. He picked up a used comp Nostalgia cam that is similar to the 284/484 cam. Looking for a little more aggressive idle is the reason for change. 4 speed 3.91 all manual B-body. L2315 flat top pistons. 800 Edelbrock, Performer RPM intake, 516 heads with smoothed up ports. Imo the cam should work well.

https://www.compcams.com/nostalgia-plus-239-246-hydraulic-flat-cam-for-chrysler-383-440.html


With this being a used cam, from a trusted source marked lifters accurately. I assume, to be safe, that a normal flat tappet break-in procedure be done with cam/lifter assy lube and break in oil?
Its not a major jump in size but, Should we worry about piston to valve clearance? Thanks

Just what I thought would be the recommendations! I did suggested getting new lifters. However he spoke with a few people that informed him about recent quality control and lack of. I guess flat tappet cam failures are the worst lately than ever before? Due to qc and materials. He's convinced that using the lifters that came with the cam is the better choice.

Decided to go with the used lifters with the used cam. Got some vr1 and a bottle of Lucas break in additive. Seems to be a 50/50 chance either way.

But.... Have another question. For a quest to gain some compression in this little guy we wanted to go with a set of .022 steel shim head gaskets. The l2315 pistons are actually only down .005-008 in this engine. I used a feeler gauge and straight edge.(Probably not the most accurate method) however.... with piston to head clearance only being .027-.030 using 516 heads the shim gaskets wont work. Felpro 1009 will probably be the best choice. How did the factory get away with using steel shim gaskets with the earlier closed chamber heads? The pistons would have had to be a minimum .020 down to get a .040 clearance. Not to mention the actual size of those chambers varied so much these engine were probably way lower than the advertised ratios. We cc'd these head they are roughly 83-85. Just using the basic summit compression ratio calculator they could have been up to a point off. Am I thinking about this correctly?

The stampings are still on the pad. Yes the factory probably did over exaggerate the advertised umbers. We'll go with the 1009 gaskets to keep it safe, plus if the deck height is off it will give us more clearance for piston to head and valve. Thanks guys.