Thanks guys + everyone.

It's not easy to just keep plugging away but having one fairly nice panel to look at has really helped my mental health LOL.

Admit I did look at the painted panel a few times starting yesterday after being crammed under the roll bar,
finishing up the mini tub install in the rear seat area. It's no a big deal until both feet go numb and my neck gets locked bent way over
to the left. It's like automotive yoga, not my cup of tea at this stage in life LOL

That trunk lid looks great! How'd you clean up the rust in between the two panels?

Thank you. Although I know it's possible, I decided it was too much for me to split the hem flanges on that panel and peel off the skin, deal with the rust, then later
rebuild the whole hem flange all the way around, so I took n2omstr advice and dumped nearly a quart of Rust Bullet into it,
sloshed it around to get into the corners, and let it drain. The exterior rear/bottom also had about 2.5 to 3" cut off/ replaced/metal finished and prepped
so I wanted to protect that effort.





.

That looks awesome Rich!

Awesome work, Rich! You're a man on mission

really nice work on the door bottoms !

Just read entire post.
Your doing a great job by saving repairable OEM parts.
I Never heard of Rustbullet...I may give it a try!
I too am in slow progress...the small completed task keep the drive going.

Thanks again all. I have a ton more detail in other pics but it's tough to post them all here with the limits set,
but have the most history here so I am trying to just hit highlights. I'll have to get into detail somewhere where it's easier to post multiple pics.

Also have some short, super amateurish videos that probably not many would want to see but I may throw them out there anyway.




Appreciate that. I like the rust bullet a little better than POR15.

The process I have had the absolute best luck with is blast and 3 coats of a quality epoxy, Everything always seems to hold up after that,
but blasting is not always practical and I feel like I need to do it myself on sheetmetal to make sure nothing is damaged.
I actually hate doing that work, it's pretty awful as I am not set up for it, but I love the results LOL.

Very impressive looking results Rich! That work is something I didn't have the talent of patience for in my teens, and I don't have the hands for it now.

I used to not care at all about such things, but the more progress I've made the more I realize certain things
I wanted restored rather than modified, so I blew the sound deadener on.

The factory applied it to bare metal before the quarters were welded on.
But...I'm not the factory, I apply epoxy and do everything else later.

Pretty happy with the result, nice heavy texture. About 3 quarts used for both quarters + I added a little to the doors.

Don't know if the restoration people would be interested in this product, I might consider selling it if I thought someone was interested.

thanks again for letting an obviously more street than race car live in here.

Getting ready to shoot the trunk for real. Could have saved alot of labor by deciding the color sooner and shooting base over epoxy
in the trunk but needed to get to work on it and decide later. As a result I have to sand it all down, epoxy again, seam seal and base over that.
I haven't enjoyed sanding the inside of the trunk down much but IIWII.

Also the stats say 16,000+ views...Thanks for checking this out, folks...that is pretty cool....maybe folks are more interested in this stuff than it seems.
Now the pressure is really on, to not mess it up!

After I finished all the rust repair and stretching the wheel wells on the 64 it went across the street to my friends for paint. I asked if he wanted help blocking it. He said NO!. I asked what could I do to help? He said do the engine compartment, trunk, door jambs, and underneath. Sand, bondo, and seam seal to my hearts content. It's a lot of work that's tedious. Seam sealed every seam in the car and the underside of the floor pan. I did block the outer tail panel between the tail lights. When it's all done you'll forgot how much time and effort it took. But you'll never forget the quality of your work.
Doug

YOU guys are crazy, seal sealer is heavy.....just scrape it all off LMAO

You know, you have a point!

Fighting alot of rust, and liking the looks (but not necessarily the performance) of restored cars leads a person down a weird path.

The iron Hemi was probably the point I mostly gave up on ever being lightweight, by any stretch of the imagination

Keep up the good work Rich.

I wish the other build threads in the "Member Projects & Survivor Pictures" were not buried at the bottom of the forum. The other forums I'm on, build threads draw very high volumes of views.

Thx Buddy. Might tell more of the story on fbbo sometime.

Forgot an update, wrapped up the front of the mini tub install, prepped/primed/seam sealed/
Base/clear on the rear footwell, quarter window and rear bulkhead areas.

The floor was previously painted with some kind of White House paint, in spots….presumably by the same maniac
Before me who painted the exterior brown. thats how it looked when I first got it….either
It was all they had to slow down rust, or they were going for a budget race car appearance?
I’ll never guess…
Though it’s hidden by carpet, it felt good to get rid of it and the couple layers of black
Rattle can paint I had added, and I think it
Will last a little while.

Also fit the window reveal moldings and drilled all the trim clip holes.
The clips everyone sells for the rear window don’t work.
Either have to order 3 sets of windshield clips, or the set of 25 the manufacturer
Stocks for the car yet does not say what the function is on the car.
Didn’t have much fun with that, doubt the vendors would care and didn’t post except on fb.
The clips work now and trim fits, anyway.

A4

Yep, the original color.

looks great !
as to weight, i kind of regret hosing the Texaco brand "ziebart" undercoating i applied all over my charger.
it makes a mess of the engine compartment, and is hard to clean off.
i also did my buddy's 71 charger super bee. boy, did he cuss me out when he went to restore the engine compartment !
he did admit, however, it wasn't a bit of rust there !
anyone care to guess how much weight was added when we applied that stuff back then ?

I can remember scraping around 30 Lbs. of under coating off of several early A and B bodies to make the minimum NHRA weight for classes a long time ago
that was SO CA cars that hadn't been driven anywhere else except there, some slight mud on some of them maybe

A little more color+ clear applied.

Sanded, probably year old black epoxy on metal, then…, fresh coat of epoxy/gray and closer to the
End color. Seam sealer, base within 24 hours of the last epoxy, clear on the same day
Hours later.

Knowing it would be covered with a trunk mat I altered my process slightly
From the inside of the trunk lid…which helped me develop a preference
That I’ll stick to for the exterior/class a surfaces.

Only thing that really went wrong is my sound deadener sagged in the middle.
I’ll mess with that later, or maybe not.

A4 is such a calm/classy color compared to a lot of others, and has a ton of metallic which I think is aluminum(?)
Wasn’t long ago I doubted my ability to spray it without stripes and mottling errors but over time I
Have learned a lot about reducer quality/speed, gun setup and technique to make it feel
Pretty user friendly. Modern urethane basecoat is amazing stuff.
Get it all right, and the metallic seems to lay out almost like magic.

Color looks a little different due to the higher k factor led light on it.
I’ve found the lower the k factor and the further away, the more the color flops to green.
The flop is essential to the look in certain lightning conditions, vs. plain old silver.