I am not sure on the valve job, i assume three angle? I never thought to look!
Thanks for the comments! I have decided to wait and not change anything till i run it, or come across solid proof what i want to change will be a positive. This is what i think needs addressing at this point. Fix vacuum leaks. Remove spraybar oiling- reason; my system wasn't pushing out oil before through the vacuum system. Same system, over a full quart, maybe two in my big vacuum breather tank from ten pulls. The motor has to be making a lot of oil froth to do that.
Also this motor has a wierd dome shape that i don't like, and timing ended at 37 degrees total, and i ran 34 without that weird little dome in the 440-1 headed combo. So if i ever want to raise compression i think it best to wait till i can have that little odd ball bubble part of the dome removed.
My apologys if i missed anybodys questions.

Cam card says . 019 intake lash, .020 exhaust lash. I set them at . 006 intake and .007 exhaust at 71 degrees block temp before the dyno session.

Doug, Jim, 873, i agree, i was too focused on a majic number on a piece of paper. So i am going to fix the vacuum leaks, learn the lash/cold setting and one other change, go back to the fatter bypass pill i started with for best torque, then lean out the top end with the hi speed bypass. Pretty simple moves, no guess work involved. You guys are right, i need to trust the guy i had do the heads, not change stuff before giving them a chance to perform. I will shut down the spraybar system though as a test at the track just to see what happens.

As stated a vacuum leak will pull oil into the tank quickly, get that fixed. As for cold lash there is no magic number with an aluminum block. They all seem to vary. I can tell you I have seen as much at .016" of change hot to cold. I can also tell you I have on more than one occasion been at a race that a car would not start because it was to cold out(high 30's ambient) and valves would not seat. Throw it in the trailer with some heat and viola it runs. Soo as stated there is no magic number. I am surprised you did not check lash on the dyno? We always warm the engines up thoroughly then set the lash, especially on an aluminum engine because there is no magic number there. I have never run an engine on the dyno and not checked the last a couple of times on a new build. If you did that and still came up with those results I would make note of the loose one and just keep an eye on it.

The rest of it, just fix the oil leak and send it. Quit worrying about a meaningless dyno number. YES you lose some power with an aluminum block through ring seal, beause they expand/grow at a less than predictable rate. However, the few HP you will give up with an aluminum block is more than made up with the decreased weight in your case going from an iron mega block to aluminum it will be fairly significant. In fact, I would be willing to bet the loss in weight will account for more on the timeslip than any additional power from the new combo. It's simple math. Ultimately the timeslip and thje scale will be the judge.

Can i get a witness? lol

[quote=HardcoreB][quote=gregsdart]there is a weird hump on the dome with a bowl in it for the plug tip. And the motor wanted theee more degrees timing than the 440-1 heads, which were milled to 62 cc, and no real dome, just a raised area about . 080 high. So i think that if i want to increase compression, that weird dome has to go.

[quote=gregsdart][quote=HardcoreB][quote=gregsdart]there is a weird hump on the dome with a bowl in it for the plug tip. And the motor wanted theee more degrees timing than the 440-1 heads, which were milled to 62 cc, and no real dome, just a raised area about . 080 high. So i think that if i want to increase compression, that weird dome has to go.

I'm a SB guy but I've enjoyed the read. Thanks for posting . As a student of the internal combustion engine I'm not a fan of the plug reliefs. I always learned the plug shouldn't be chocked off

My ONLY suggestion is be careful with the lighter springs. Having been down that road just my advice. However you dont need any more than is necessary to control the valve. Ramp speeds, valve material/weight, weight of components, and RPM all play a roll there.

He ground the cam and he should know.