I think you're kidding yourself if you want to run a .700+ lift solid roller on the street and not replace valvesprings. This is why those "street car classes" are a joke, guys running cams bigger than this and having to replace valve springs during the event... ya real street car

Agreed.....

Well, I did buy a milder cam as this valve spring replacement thing is not for me....But, I might just test my new oiling setup with my current cam and see what I get.

Its not that mild....It still has a bit of duration and .700 lift at the valve....Just has a different ramp rate for drag and drive events. So -.050" lift and same duration...As I was hoping to lose as little HP as possible. Or switch to 572 or bigger wedge engine over a Hemi...My spray bars should work though. We are going to test them on the bench soon.

Have you ever ran a street car with 700 lift or more? Ive done several without an issue, and that includes hemi's. Spintron technology has helped valvetrain advance a lot in last 5-8 years.

My old pump gas Duster motor had right at .700 net lift on both valves with 250 Lbs. on the seats and 680 Lbs. open pressure and didn't have any issues with valve springs dying
I did have the number four cam journal grooved for full time oiling to the rocker shafts and restricted the oil flow in the block down to.041, the original valve springs lost 30 lbs. pressure at max lift after 1800 miles street driving., one .030 shim fix that

I Street drive and race my 70 Challenger back and forth to work, the stores, cruise nights and car shows with a over .800 custom nitrous 55MM roller bearing camshaft with no issues with valve springs. However, I live within walking distance from PAC for when I do need them. I usually test them every 2 seasons. And replace as needed.

I Agree

So I have all of the spray bars built now and installed. I even built two more to put in the middle, but the big doesn't think I need the ones in the middle...I was hoping to test them today as my Milodon oil pump cover showed up as well, but then I promptly cross threaded the oil line on the pan...So, I can't bench test them until I fix that issue.

So I guess an update is needed....

Pulled the rest of the engine apart to put the new cam in. This one has a milder ramp rate, and takes lower pressure valve springs.

Well, we found #8 rod bearing burnt...Probably from the ridiculously short shut down at our track....Also found #7 cylinder with some scoring in it. Not bad, but enough that it will take a few though to clean it up. And lastly, the header gasket was blown...Never killed one of those on a Hemi before....

So what to do with it all...I could put the old rotating assembly in the new block, and find a spot to put a 2qrt accumulator on it...but that kinda defeats the purpose of having a new block. I could look at an entire new rotating assembly for the old block, or just a set of new pistons...or just sell it all and go a different route...

For now, I am thinking about what my next move is. Looking for a set of 4.505 pistons is on the list, as well as pricing an entire rotating kit. And seeing who has what for sale.

I've bought 4.505" Diamond pistons from Ray Barton before. Since the rings are .005" over anyway they worked out fine.

Dragula, it's a bummer to see what issues you've had with your Hemi.

Thanks to the guys on the forum I had a heads up on the Hemi's potential oiling issues on the street with decent roller cams.

Being aware of this, after the first few street drives I pulled the covers for a peek. The exh pushrods were just starting to go a light yellow colour where the cup meets the pushrod tube. You know how it goes, light yellow, dark yellow, brown then black/blue from a lack of oil. The intakes were fine, this was with a .750"/.680", 270/280 @ .050" Bullet roller. I asked for streetable lobes/ramps but that's another story for another day. Rockers are Stage V intakes and widepad OEM exhausts.

I figured I'd have a crack and try to solve the issue without spending mondo dineros, so I tapped into the spare oil port at the back of the block with a tee fitting and ran 1 brake hard line to a SS fitting mounted in the front of of one valve cover and the other hard line to another small SS fitting in rear of the other valve cover. These fittings were installed to these flared hard lines with tube nuts through the valve cover walls and sealed, then I ran hard lines inside from one end of the VC to the other and marked/secured/angled them towards the pushrod cups on the exh side. They were them bonded in place in the walls of the cast VCs with JB Weld.

Next step, I drilled and countersunk holes in the tubes opposite the springs/pushrod cups, then soldered them shut, (the mild countersink was to allow the solder to have adequate area to "grab" to the tube) then used a pin drill to drill tiny holes in the soldered area. Patience was the key here, ie cut tubes, flare, route, trial fit, remove, mark holes, remove, drill, solder, pin drill, reinstall, test. Repeat for other side.

Then came the a street tests and checks, like magic - the cleaned pushrods stayed clean and the problem went away.

Intakes are still fine and everything still looks good. As for the cam, thanks to input from a great member here, eventually I swapped it out with a grind that has a lobe that won't beat up on the valvetrain and still make really good power. And it does. So far so good !

I learned if a Hemi's roller cam is much over .200 deg duration @ .200" lift......the lobe can give you issues on the street; I was told to keep it under 200.

Hope this helps.

I made four spray bars for the intake valve springs...Only broke one this time around...Checked one of the others, and it still had full spring pressure, which I was not expecting. Hopefully these solve my valvetrain oiling issues, now I have a lower oiling issue as well. So I am going to use glyptall from Eastwood and do the whole inside of the block to help with oil drain back. After that, it needs an accumulator. I seem to go thru this every year...Looking forward to the day I do not have to pull the engine.

So smart cam guys, answer me this, how is it I am told the biggest hydraulic roller I can get is like a .600 lift cam....Yet the new Chevy 632 crate engine has a .780 hydraulic roller.....I keep going back to that engine, because it checks ALL the boxes of what I want in a Hemi....How do they get away with that, and how could I?

Good question !

The 632 Shivvy specs out :

Camshaft Type: Billet Steel Hydraulic Roller
Valve Lift (in.): 0.780 intake/0.782 exhaust
Camshaft Duration (@0.050 in.): 270º intake/287º exhaust, 113 LSA
Cylinder Heads: Aluminum spread-port; 70cc chambers -RS-X design
Valve Size (in.): 2.450 intake/1.800 exhaust,Titanium (5/16-in stem OD)

So it has lighter, small stem Ti valves, shaft rockers, and a steep 1.8 rocker ratio. The actual lobe lift would be a lot less, who knows what spring they're using to control it. I believe the lifters have a .904 or slightly larger” diameter body with a .850” wheel on needle bearings. At 12:1 cr, you'd think it has smallish chambers, flat tops and a supertight quench. Note the LSA.

Hemi is a different engine/different design so has different challenges for hyd cams that rpm. I believe pushrod angles in the hemi design load up the juice lifters and have clearance issues in the head/block if its a decent lift cam. Long exh rockers add valvetrain mass as well.

Whos using a decent lift juice roller in a big inch Hemi? Not saying it can't be done, but from what I've read, it seems to be more trouble that its worth given the limited choices we have with this platform compared to the General Maintenance crowd.

The RBRE rocker system helps take out the rocker geometry issues that many Hemi's have. The spray bar oilers also help keep everything cooler. Haven't broken any springs, yet.... As I mentioned above, I run over .800 lift in my 528" Hemi on the street. Actually, I had it out cruisin around Saturday since we were in the 50's here in Mich. Some of you locals probably heard it. Lol.

So I have updated my plan for the last time...I hope....

Can't seem to get a quote on pistons with a reasonable lead time, so....

I am putting all my stuff in the new block. For better oil control, we are adding a coating inside the block, Glyptol I think, we are throwing away the old windage tray that has no louvers or holes in it for one that does, we are reducing the restrictors from .063 to .040" and looking to add a small accumulator somewhere. I am still installing the spray bars in the valve covers for the intake springs. We are also switching to a milder cam that only needs 180# closed on the springs.

The old block needs .005-.010 pistons, and I might sell it. Already got a call on it this morning.

Should have it all done in the next couple weeks and ready for the season, or least ready to install it.

Mean while the new wedge bullet is almost in my Duster....

I am not a fan of the glyptol coating. It flakes off eventually over time. All goes somewhere. Through the engine, oil pump etc. The restrictors is probably an okay change I would go with the larger accumulator. The largest you have room for. I use mine with an electric solenoid as a primer before I fire the engine and also as designed in case of an oil pressure issue. I like a clean engine bay so I mounted my 3 qt on some custom made tubular mounts off of the core support behind the front bumper.

The last engine I had with the coating never flaked off...It worked well, so I just got a brand new can of it from Eastwood.

As far as hiding the accumulator, I had a 2quart one hidden under the radiator...Literally underneath it.....But I have a new rad, and this one required an external trans cooler, and the hoses run thru there now, so I doubt it will fit there...

I have an external trans cooler in addition to the radiator. Here is how I mounted mine.

What did you clamp that to? There isn't much up there to anchor to..