Contact Ron Galbreath at Afterworks , he sells Vikings or possible he can re valve your current shocks .
Yes , top shelf parts are expensive . No way around it . I had santuffs front and rear , and just upgraded , was it expensive? Yes it was ….it really comes down to how serious you are , and what you are trying to do . Budget stuff can work , but it only gets you so far ,

The guys here are correct in all they say but the vid is clear, the RR has 20yr old 90/10's up front, barely 5 " of front travel, it runs those 10x29's at 17psi and has 2 flats preload on the bars to be precise. Dana 60 with 4.10's and a low first gear in the 727 with a 4200-ish flash stall f/brake and just 685fwhp on track. I think it could do better personally.

The GTX in the other post runs the same 9-ways and manages to 60 much faster albeit a bit lighter and probably is a mid 9 sec car with around 800fwhp at that weight.

Fit the mono caltrac system and keep your DA shocks and try it, you don't need to pay the earth for Santhuffs at that level, most buy the santhuff fronts so they can land from a big wheelie like a plane.

Here a couple of videos on Dizusters car with Cal Tracks. This 1st was early in the Savoy's development. The 2nd going mid nines with 1.37 60ft. Also my friend Mikes 64 Dodge. The Dodge has since been upgraded with cal tracks and Strange double adjustables. It now runs In the high nines with 60 fts in the 1.37 range.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sjZDXBXRC9Q

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Ynn9f3Bud4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jr1VILyS7WE

Doug

Cal-tracs, Calvert shocks, CE 3 way adjustable fronts and otherwise stock suspension with front snubbers removed and slant 6 bars. 3.54 gears and 11" converter. Vikings on the shelf to replace these but trying to push into the 9's the way it is.

Was 1.37 60 ft. in this pic and has been 1.36.

Afterworks revalved my front Vikings.

Thanks for the videos.
My car did the same thing as the 64 dodge till I put the da shocks on the car . That helped a bunch but it is stlill too aggressive, there is a lot of wasted motion on the the launch. and it is still wadding up the tire. I'm going to mount the leaf spring in the lower hole position and start there. then look for a better set of shocks.

yes like that.

If you look real close you can see the the leaf spring parallel with the ground.

I did the straight up shock mod along with the 25" S-10 front spring on my Dart and it does work pretty well on my junk. 1.33 foot brakin so far and I have a new 8" 5800 vert to replace my 30 year old piece which should wake up my tunnel ram even more...

I don't know if this will help you any but here is a cheat sheet I got from John Calvert a long time ago.

Top Hole – Hardest Hit (start here)

Bottom Hole – Softer Hit, moves IC forward

More Pre-load, Softer Hit

Less Pre-load, air gap, harder hit

If car pulls to the right add a quarter turn of pre-load to the right bar and visa versa.

Set front shocks soft

Set rear shocks on #5, if car wants to porpoise go to 6 or 7 (harder).

If car spins, needs harder hit, go softer

Too much wheelstand…. Softer hit, restrict front travel

Draw an line from contact patch through the instant center. No caltracs the instant center is the front spring eye. Now draw a line parallel to the ground through the center of gravity of the car. Where the first line intersects the second line determines the % of rise. Farther to the rear, it hits the tire harder and tries to separate more. Farther forward it’s softer on the tire and lifts the nose more. Lowering the front spring eye, moves the intersection forward. Changing to a taller tire, moves the intersection back. Caltracs, are almost like a open ended, tune-able small ladder bar. Moves the instant center forward. I think your line for instant center would go from contact patch through the front bar eye. It could actually be farther forward of that.

[quote=FurryStump]Draw an line from contact patch through the instant center. No caltracs the instant center is the front spring eye. Now draw a line parallel to the ground through the center of gravity of the car. Where the first line intersects the second line determines the % of rise. Farther to the rear, it hits the tire harder and tries to separate more. Farther forward it’s softer on the tire and lifts the nose more. Lowering the front spring eye, moves the intersection forward. Changing to a taller tire, moves the intersection back. Caltracs, are almost like a open ended, tune-able small ladder bar. Moves the instant center forward. I think your line for instant center would go from contact patch through the front bar eye. It could actually be farther forward of that. [/quo

so if i'm understanding you correctly , the cal-trac bar now determins the instant center not so much the front spring mounting point. That will move the ic significantly foward, which would explain the cal-trac claim of reducing /controlling seperation..
Thanks for the input , I'm attempting to gather info so as to understand what it is that I am doing with the suspension rather than just install parts and hope for the best .

Not sure if this is correct, Caltracs stop spring wrap. The IC is above Neutral line = more anti-squat (or more separation), The higher hole hits the tyre harder = more rise. At least this is the case in my experience.