I’m installing a gear vendor overdrive in a 4 speed 68 charger. All of the cheap Chinese made transmissions mounts are made poorly and are too tall. I bought one on the last conversion I made about two months ago, but this new mount is taller and the two sides are not level. This is not the 70 style with the bolt through mount but the square one with single small bolt at the bottom. I guess I need to get a picture. At any rate, it’s about 3/8” taller than an old oem one I have. My question here has anyone used one of the poly mounts? Are they the same height as an old factory one? The gear vendor needs to be dropped down about 1/2” on the mount to clear the tunnel and this tall mount is not helping me. I hate to order a $60 mount and it be wrong too. Any help on the height difference will help. I’ll try and get a picture with a measurement posted today. Thanks

i bought a prothane brand poly mount for my 69 charger. it's the square style with the single stud on the bottom.
it measures 3 3/8" over all length, excluding the stud length.
i don't know what my original mount measures, i just bought the poly mount on a whim, several years back.

I need one about 3 1/8” from the base to the flat( not including the stud). Here is my problem with the repop Mount.

looks like the repops and the poly mounts are too tall.
you don't have an extra mount crossmember you can modify to take care of the extra length of the mount ?
it is rather disappointing [to say the least !] to buy replacement parts, only to find out they won't work because they are made wrong.

Maybe the original has shrunk over time

your straightedge is coming off one point of the replacement mount which is adding to the height difference your seeing /measuring. they are also do not appear to be parallel to each other.
have you tried going 90 degrees with the straight edge across both mounts and or clamping the two mounts together?
I 'm going to guess the original has shrunk and it may have conformed to it's placement over the years as it appear to be at an angle.

Can you use the old mount?
Another thought may be to heat the new mount, place it in a press and leave it till it cools. Might be a trial and error process

The reason the straight edge is placed that way is to show how it lays in the mount. The tallest part of that new mount is way off and it really throws the hole thing off. The other mount I got is not quite as bad but that just shows the inconsistency of the whole mess. I did this conversion about two months ago on another 69 Charger and I was able to make it work by slotting the holes more. The mount I bought was from the same store. These should have been better. I dug out this old mount and it looks much better than any of them. I don’t think it has shrunk much because of the space between the rubber and the steel at the top. I did try to modify one mount. I cut it down with a sawzall and tack welded it in. It was perfect. When I welded it in place with a good bead, it came apart. I got it too hot. I wasted an hour of my time. I’ve got my friend calling around to different manufacturers to get measurements on poly mounts this week. I was hoping someone had one in hand and could measure the height between the base and the flats that go on the bottom of the crossmember. Yes I could cut the cross member but I’d rather not. That would be my last resort.

I had a friend with the same problem for his RO car. I supplied him with an original OE part which was shorter. Here is one on Ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/384053045791

not too bad, their website shows $295

Listing claims NORS??? My BS detector just went up in smoke. how does one REBUILD a vulcanized Trans mount? Especially one that looks USED?

They do sell urethane in raw stock form. One could separate the metal pieces, insert urethane blocks and then drill 1 or 2 holes through the mount to assemble it or drill through the crossmember as well. may not be the solution of choice but a solution. And it's not different than the Biscuit style motor and trans mounts used on the pre WWII vehicles.

#2272 is the aftermarket part# for that mount, I just checked Ebay for one & only new junk ones available at this time,keep searching from time to time & a nos old aftermarket one will eventually come up there much better then todays junk,use ebays {save this search} option & you will get alerts when a 2272 is listed, If you're in a hurry this may not be an option.

Being a welder, I would probably modify the crossmember to meet the needs of the Gear Venders unit to use available mounts.

It sounds to me like even the lower mounts will be too high. So some kind of modification may still be required. If modification is still going to be required, why not just modify the crossmember to use the available mounts, and leave the OEM mounts for the guys doing numbers restorations?

Lowering the plate the bottom stud bolts to even a 1/2", wouldn't be a big issue at all if you have the clearance at the top. If it needs the 1/2" and there isn't clearance at the top, that can be corrected at the same time. The crossmember is only steel.

hi
bought a prothane and it was too tall also for my 66 b body !

Well. Thanks for all the help guys and suggestion. The ebay NOSR one may not work any better than the old one I have. I hate to pay that much for old rubber. They would all work if not for the gear vendor installation. He just ordered on off of Amazon. It’s a poly from energy suspension. I can modify the cross member. The problem I hate modify if for this junky made rubber mount. The one I got months ago was better than these two. I’ll post the final solution. I may try another attempt to modify this mount. I just put too much ͏H͏e͏at at one time. I knew better. This new mount is not even wide enough to fill up the space like the old old either.

Another question, what is the availability and cost of another crossmember? If reasonably priced enough might just get another and modify one to fit the urethane mounts.

I myself think we have forgotten how to make SOME rubber components that last especially aftermarket replacements like suspension bushings, dust boot seals mounts etc. (actually it likely has more to do with make it cheaper)

I’ve got several more cross members. I just hate to modify a Perfe͏c͏t͏ part valued at $100-200, in places I’ve found, to make a crappy,inconsistent $7 part fit. I mod the cross member and the crappy mount goes bad and we can’t find one just like bought the first time. All three of the ones I’ve bought so far have been slight different.

We haven't forgotten it, we can thank the EPA and the climate change Nazis for the demise of making good rubber products.

then i would proceed with my suggestion from post 1559

Many users have bragged about making custom vibration isolators from Sugru moldable silicone

https://sugru.com/what-is-sugru

a challenge is how to test a custom height mount prior to road use