89211-16

I'm using the Gaterman lifters with the Comp HR cam and I don't think the lifters are noisy. I guess I could shoot a video to see what others think. I think the lobes on my cam are fairly aggressive, it is the 13452B/13481B lobes.

hi

how much pre load on the gatermans ?

i am looking at maybe replacing the noisy lifters on my hemi ?

do they have bushings or needle bearings ? .

cost ?

Unfortunately they don't make them for the small block.

Thanks for sharing this Dwayne! Maybe this will open the doorway to more better-performing dual-purpose motor combos?

They look like someone used their heads, and used a solid lifter body modified to use the new lifters from the new production V6 engines I see everyday. they are modified to use a ball end pushrod, but these are whats in say todays chrysler 3.6 cylinder heads.

I have installed several sets of Morel hydraulic roller lifters in builds this summer, Pontiac, GM and Mopar. Instruction sheet with the lifters mentioned required centistoke rating of the oil. After researching the spec, 10W30 oil is the thickest recommended. In comparing the lifters run quieter and oil better to the rockers with the thinner oil. I had been using 20W40 Rotella as a break-in oil. I changed to a mineral based 10W30 oil.

The problem explained on another mopar site is not necessarily to do with the hyd. roller lifters, its the stock blocks themselves. This is a just 1 post by challenger340.... PRH took part in this thread, most of you know all this anyway but it may be useful info for others>


The problem many face when using Hydraulic Rollers in BB Mopars, an Engine never designed or envisioned to use them, is the very short distance between where the very large Oil Gallery intersects the lifter Bore, and the bottom of the Bore itself, which is also the exact spot where maximum Lifter Bore wear occurs in old Blocks, allowing excessive lifeblood Oil Pressure leakage out, rather than into the Lifter maintaining preload.

Add to the above,
that Hydraulic Roller Cams require higher V/Spring Pressures to keep up with the increased ramp Roller Lobes, and you have a situation where lifeblood Oil Pressure to maintain Lifter preload and valvetrain stability is fighting against the worn Bores and higher Spring pressure trying to keep it out ..... clackity.... clackity... clackity.... or very poor rpm capability.

Interesting to note here:
is that when CRANE was initially doing the R & D for Hydraulic Rollers with FORD back in the early 80's.... one of the first identified Block design changes was to Lengthen the Lifter Bore castings themselves to assist in Lifter sealing.... hence the Mid-80's Ford "HR" smallblocks with the taller(longer) lifter Bores.
The same was done over at GM etc., as they were updating castings to run HR's... they all lengthened the Lifter Bores in the HR Blocks for this reason.

The best answer for trying to run HR Lifters in these old BB Mopar Blocks with the Short & usually normally Lifter Bore bottoms.... seems to be one of 2 things:
1.) Bush the Lifter Bores to control leakage, an extremely expensive proposition
or,
2.) Run the HR Lifter basically bottomed out for adjustment, with only about .010" or so plunger preload remaining.... so basically running as a Solid.

#2 is now the prescribed "FIX" at pretty much all Cam Manu's for BB Mopar's when you phone to complain as many do.... of "noisey valvetrain"
and,
begging the question, if so many are having to run the HR Lifter Plungers in BB Mopars down .080", .090", even .105" to shut them up, basically "Bottomed" with 3 & 4 Adjuster Threads hanging out the bottom of the Rockers, why not just run a tight lash Solid "Street" Roller Cam instead ? with even more power/Trq than the HR ?

Anybody with a dis-assembled Block ?
Take a flashlight and go LOOK at the bottom of the Lifter Bores and the distance between where the Oil gallery intersects it to out the bottom.... see what I am referring to here, even better put a Bore gauge in their for yourself if you have access to one.

Link to full thread
www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=128846.0;all

Good post rb446. That brings up a very interesting issue that seems to need more awareness.

I was wondering about this myself , I have a block that I bushed the lifter bores and want to run a HYD. roller in it , maybe I accidently fixed a potential issue ?

BUT how big a hole do you need to put in the bushing, I had 1/8" holes put in them?

There was a video I was watching on some guys who bought a reaming/bushing kit albeit for SB which showed them doing i, they put 1/8" hole in the bushings also.

The BB Mopar is THE BIGGEST candidate for lifter bore bushings when it comes to roller lifters in general, but specifically hyd. roller lifters...and once you do this, it's amazing how much more oil you'll have going to the rods and mains, and much better oil pressure at idle and low engine speeds (street driving).
It's all I recommend now days...it really corrects that engine's oil system.