How do I remove the 727 floor shifter tang that is attached to the shifter lock out button? I think that wear in the tang is why I don't always get the park safety switch postion. It is quite sloppy compared to others. Do I just beat on the tang or cut the cable next to the button?

First step is to properly adjust the linkage, have you done that?

yes, new switch at the trans also. I have two shifters, one with no slop and mine with plenty. This car uses a cable instead of a rod. I assume the nylon collar inside the shaft is preventing the tang extraction.

i believe the threaded end is crimped on after the guts are assembled.
is it possible for you to reshape the top of the tang with a file to fit the detent plate better ? or is the slot wallowed out in the shaft causing the slop ?

the slot measures the same on both shifters, so I think there is a groove worn in the tang. If the threaded end is crimped, reassembly is going to be tough!. If it is soldered, maybe not so much.

Would it be possible to carefully dremel the crimp off, repair and then reassemble using something suiable to replace the crimp?
I have found non insulated butt splices to be useful adding a little JB before re crimping.

Or maybe cut the cable beyond the crimp and splice if back together ?

Do you have a picture where we can see the shifter from top to bottom?

If you remove the allen screw in the knob, the knob and button unscrew as a unit. Then you can pull the cotter key and remove the tab and cable as a unit out the bottom. I recently had one where the cable had unscrewed from the tab itself. We had to cut the button and knob apart to disassemble it. But that being said I think you have a linkage issue.
Doug

i looked at the shifter that is in my charger.
although it appears you should be able to pull the cable and tab from the bottom after removing the cotter key and spring, the bushing at the top is one piece with two diameters. the bigger one for the threaded, crimped on end, and then gets smaller for the cable.
as the bushing is flanged at the top, it won't pull through the shifter lever.
this appears to me the threaded end was crimped onto the cable/tab piece after it was positioned through the upper bushing.
i have no reason to take mine apart, as it works perfectly, and i have never had a rusty junk unit to dissect. so

I am getting prepared to cut the crimped end off with a very short stub of cable remaining. I will probably have to take a bolt with the same thread as the black button and drill a hole in the center for the cable and solder it. I will have to do a mighty pull test afterwards. I am also thinking of trying to stuff brass shim stock into the slot to tighten it up.
It seems like the factory should have had some kind of detent with a leaf spring on the tang end but no amount of pushing in the slot with a pick does anything. I take a picture of the whole shifter.

year make model and pic's would help a bunch. I like others are having trouble picturing how this would affect the NSS

the shifter I am disassembling is a long handle one with a chrome button. The shifter with the extra slop is a short handle with black button from a 74 Jensen Interceptor. I think the short handle shifter is a later model, like early to mid 70s and the long handle is mid to late 60's but the tang and mechanism look the same.

I would very carefully dremel the crimped portion open. Repair as needed. Using a piece of the appropriate size threaded rod,
have the cable end drilled and turned down in a lathe. Reintsall o the cable with JB for added strength and re crimp but the epoxy sets up.

that looks exactly like the shifter my charger has.
it appears you are missing the flanged bushing at the top, which i described above as having two different inside diameters.
as you describe your button as being chrome, is your car a 68 ? mine is a 69 with a wood grain knob and black button.
maybe the chrome button 68's didn't have the top bushing ?
as many cars as i scrapped in my junkyard ownership days [1972-1984], i never really paid attention to these shifters. in fact, i didn't even keep a spare or two for my car !

The shifter with the slop does have a different slot width than the tight shifter by .020. At the top of the gate this translates to .110 free play. I have decided not to try to dissasemble the long shifter with the cable. The short later model shifter is the sloppy one and I can remove the tang since it doesn't use a cable but a threaded rod. I will try to weld up the tang or maybe braze and then file it down for a nice fit into the slot. If I just squeeze the tube in the vise, the tang doesn't freely move in the tube.
Thanks for your help.