I don't recall ever replacing a governor solenoid for a no O/D, L/U condition alone. That is more likely to be a faulty reading sensor like VSS, TPS, CTS or something of that order. There are two solenoids, one each for L/U and O/D that have a single ignition hot supply wire and two separate grounds that the PCM grounds. I would look for 12 volts there before going any further.

You might be thinking about the L/U and O/D solenoids, those come as a pair and are separate from the governor solenoid and pressure transducer.

OK, I was a bit confused before, but now I'm really confused.

Where are the LU and the OD solenoids located on the trans itself? While I'm asking dumb questions, where does that 12 volt power source come from, and can I check that out from above? This is a 4x4 trans in a Dakota chassis, I will have to put the truck on a rack to check pretty much anything under the truck. I'd rather have the parts in hand when I get the my buddy's hoist, the same parts locally are 2x what they cost online.

I thought the changeable parts on the valve body were the governor solenoid and transducer. I don't remember seeing any other solenoids inside of the pan.

They are on the valve body. They are hard wired to the external connector. I am unsure where the 12 volts come from or what the wire color is but it should be 12 volts key on. I would imagine it comes out of the engine compartment junction box. Look up torque converter clutch solenoid on rock auto or something like that.

OK thank you.
I did follow the wire harness from the trans connector up to the connector into the main harness. I should be able to make sure that at least one of those wires has 12 volts.

You should have a relay in the power box in the engine compartment. Note that the PCM controls both a ground to turn on the relay and to engage LU and OD.

This has the small Dakota under hood power box (about 5" square), there is no relay marked for anything trans related (relay for: ASD, starter, blower motor, anti lock brakes, cooling fan, and headlights), are the only relays and there are 4 fuses.

look at the underside of relay box cover. legend for what's in the box is there.
I'm guessing its the solenoid on the valve body causing your issue. that gov solenoid was known for issues in certain years.
Oh just thought of 1 other thing
There is a spring on the valve body, has a cover over it with 2 bolts, a "3-4 shift spring". I've . found a few of those busted over the years. Including on my own 96 Dakota 4wd back when I rebuilt that trans 70k miles ago.

I looked at the legend under the cover for anything trans related, didn't see anything. I did trace the wires from the trans up, I will check for 12 volts on one of those wires when I can get the truck up in the air, on jack stands I can't get my arms into position to unclip the wire connections.
I will order the LU & the OD solenoids. While the pan is off, I will examine everything in there. Unfortunately, that it is at least a couple weeks out right now, life is about to get in the way. The good thing is, as long as the weather doesn't turn to real crap again, I'm driving the coupe, the truck can sit.

as i recall?,there is a way to check the solenoids at the trans,check for 12 volts and ground the right pins and you should hear a click inside the pan there may be a youtube video about it?

I've been pretty distracted from the truck for the last few weeks and haven't even had a chance to look it it at all. Since I'm driving my coupe, the truck has just been sitting in my garage. If the weather ever warms up, body work is coming.

This morning I was showing the truck to my grandson and noticed (and remembered) the truck has the dash button to shut off the OD. Just for kicks, I gave the button a push, and it really doesn't feel like it is doing anything at all. I thought they were suppose to be spring loaded, so I poked it a couple more times, and it really doesn't look or feel like its functioning at all. This new reevaluation brings up a few questions.

Am I correct in assuming that button could be the source of my no OD problem?

Would that button switch be a normally open, or a normally closed switch?

Can I just unplug the wires from the switch, or do I need to jump the switch to make sure the OD is activated?

The truck sits low, and even on jack stands I can't get into position to disconnect the wire connector to the transmission to test for power. I would have to take the truck to my buddies and use his hoist, which was going to be the next step until I saw the OD button on the dash.
I see no reason I would need to shut off the OD on this truck, any towing it might ever be used for would be pretty light duty. It wouldn't bother me at all to remove the switch from the dash. Gene

It's a momentary switch that just tells the PCM to turn off the O/D. It resets with every key cycle.

So as long as power is going through the switch, that probably isn't my problem? Darned.
I've pulled the switch, there seems to be continuity between the blue (ign hot) and the green/orange tracer until the button is pushed. Then there is the momentary break in continuity, but the switch is pretty flaky and it doesn't always break the continuity.
If I connect the blue wire with the green/orange tracer wire I should be able to eliminate the switch, correct? Probably won't help my problem, but would at least eliminate a flakey switch and make me feel better.

I have an 87 Dakota factory service manual, and an 87-96 Haynes repair book, but neither cover this switch. The problem with the factory service manuals through these years is the manual only covers the things that changed that one year. If you don't pick the right year the change occurred, its not covered in the later manuals. Is there a general repair manual (or probably even more helpful a book covering the wiring diagrams) that would cover Dakota trucks from 90 to 96 a guy could buy?

i have a 96 fsm for full size trucks that i could be persuaded to part with

I have a 97 full size Ram FSM on CD, but the Dakota wiring is Dakota only until 98, then it includes the Durango as well, but that is the next gen Dakota and I'm pretty sure the wiring changed by the Durango time.

i also have a 92 Dakota FSM,its OBD1 so most likely different,if i was smart enough i could scan the circuit you need and email it to you,but 96 is OBD2!!

The 92 probably won't help much, but its probably better then the 87 I have, in 87 everything was sill carbed.
The generic Haynes book has the efi wiring for the V6 & the V8, but it doesn't show this switch anywhere.

The switch has 5 wires.
One blue ign hot, and one green W orange tracer that has continuity unless the button is pushed. Then most of the time (but not always) it looses continuity only while the button is pushed.
There is an orange wire that is hot when the lights are on, it has continued continuity with a black wire all the time. The switch has a light in it, I would assume those wires are for that light which is probably a dash light. The switch also has a light I assume is for when the button is pushed and the dash lights are on to indicate the button is being pushed, because there is also an orange w white tracer wire that has continuity with the orange & black wire only when the button is pushed.

If I don't hear any different, I think I'm going to splice the blue wire and the green w orange tracer wire together and remove the switch all together. That probably won't help my no OD problem, but at least it eliminates a flaky switch I don't need.