70 Challenger Rallye Dash Elec.Problem
#3037297
04/26/22 04:19 PM
04/26/22 04:19 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 367 Newark DE
Dogpro
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After coming home from a show Saturday when I shut my car off I noticed that all of my Fuel/Temp/Oil gauges were all still reading as if the car was running. My aftermarket radio which I have connected into the accessory terminal on the fuse block was also playing and nothing turn off by the key. I unplugged the Harness to the column with no change. I took it for a ride and noticed my oil gauge was erratic going up and down. I have a lot of stuff unplugged with no change. I will remove the cluster next but does this sound like my voltage limiter is bad and backfeeding somehow or maybe my oil gauge has went bad or shorting out as all the gauges are fed together. Sorry for the long post. Thanks, Lou
Last edited by Dogpro; 04/26/22 04:20 PM.
Lou P. Newark DE
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Re: 70 Challenger Rallye Dash Elec.Problem
[Re: IMGTX]
#3037342
04/26/22 07:30 PM
04/26/22 07:30 PM
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Posts: 367 Newark DE
Dogpro
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I have the column completely disconnected and still have the problem. I Take out the fuses one at a time and the only change I get is when I take out the fuse to the rear harness which obviously cuts out the fuel gauge. The harness is original. I haven't taken the block off of the wall yet that might be my next move. I am getting a back feed or short from somewhere which is why I was wondering if it could be the oil gauge or limiter.
Lou P. Newark DE
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Re: 70 Challenger Rallye Dash Elec.Problem
[Re: IMGTX]
#3037355
04/26/22 08:19 PM
04/26/22 08:19 PM
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Dogpro
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Well tomorrow is a new day we'll see what I uncover when I take off the block. Thanks for the replies!
Lou P. Newark DE
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Re: 70 Challenger Rallye Dash Elec.Problem
[Re: Dogpro]
#3037357
04/26/22 08:24 PM
04/26/22 08:24 PM
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Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,261 nowhere
Sniper
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I have the column completely disconnected and still have the problem. I Take out the fuses one at a time and the only change I get is when I take out the fuse to the rear harness which obviously cuts out the fuel gauge. The harness is original. I haven't taken the block off of the wall yet that might be my next move. I am getting a back feed or short from somewhere which is why I was wondering if it could be the oil gauge or limiter. There is no fuse between the fuel gauge and the rear of the vehicle. The only fuse in the fuel circuit is the one that feeds the IVR (instrument voltage regulator). The IVR feeds the + side of the fuel gauge and the sender is hooked, with no fuse, to the - side of the fuel gauge. Sounds like you have a short and the fuse you pulled is the circuit feeding that short.
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Re: 70 Challenger Rallye Dash Elec.Problem
[Re: Sniper]
#3037523
04/27/22 08:57 AM
04/27/22 08:57 AM
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Dogpro
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This is what I found. Black feed wire was shorted against the Green wire and the White wire above it. Green wire feeds the rear harness which has the gas sending unit which I hope was causing my back feed.
Lou P. Newark DE
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Re: 70 Challenger Rallye Dash Elec.Problem
[Re: Dogpro]
#3037525
04/27/22 08:59 AM
04/27/22 08:59 AM
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Posts: 367 Newark DE
Dogpro
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Block has slight melting but should be savable. I will have to get some heat shrink to cover the damaged wires.
Lou P. Newark DE
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Re: 70 Challenger Rallye Dash Elec.Problem
[Re: Dogpro]
#3037539
04/27/22 09:52 AM
04/27/22 09:52 AM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,519 Lansing, MI
70gtx440dana
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You will likely want to replace that entire black wire or a section of it. It will come back to haunt you if you don't. Clean and inspect both ends of the red wire going to ammeter as well. You are pretty lucky up to this point not to have a complete melt down and possible fire.
70 Road Runner 383-4 4 speed FJ5 & black guts 70 Charger R/T 440-4 4 speed FJ5 & white guts
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Re: 70 Challenger Rallye Dash Elec.Problem
[Re: IMGTX]
#3037606
04/27/22 01:32 PM
04/27/22 01:32 PM
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Dogpro
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Now that you mention it I had a voltage regulator go bad towards the end of last year and I had no choice but to drive it for a mile or so with ammeter bouncing between normal and pegged before I could pull over and disconnect the alternator and drive home on the battery. I thought I was ok but apparently the damage was done. Not a problem pulling the dash in fact I already have the corner switch bezel out looking for pinched wires so only about 8 more screws and the cluster will be out and I can check the connections then and decide my next move which for now may be just running a new wire beside the old one instead of splicing in a piece.
Lou P. Newark DE
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Re: 70 Challenger Rallye Dash Elec.Problem
[Re: IMGTX]
#3037898
04/28/22 09:27 AM
04/28/22 09:27 AM
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Dogpro
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Since I was there I pulled the cluster and the good news is there is no heat damage or discoloration on neither the red or black terminals and all wiring looks good and pliable so all the damaged was confined to the block and out about 2 inches. Now to decide on my next move I can simply repair the lesser wires and replace the damage wire from the block to the ammeter and be done with it but obviously the block is the weak point. Unless someone knows of a smaller terminal block I have looked up pass through terminal blocks but most of them need 2 one inch holes drilled for them and there is not a lot room on this firewall to do that but I could drill a smaller hole with a grommet and use a surface mount block in the engine compartment. Thanks for all the replies, Lou
Lou P. Newark DE
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Re: 70 Challenger Rallye Dash Elec.Problem
[Re: Dogpro]
#3037909
04/28/22 10:10 AM
04/28/22 10:10 AM
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Posts: 1,234 Chicago, IL
PLUM_72
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Doesn't look that bad. You could replace the harness. I would heat shrink repair the wire and check/clean the connections. However take it a step further. One you can do the Nacho suggestion and run a parallel wire from the alt, through ammeter and back to the battery. Second you could run a larger wire from the alternator around to the starter solenoid, effectively bypassing the ammeter. Current takes the path of least resistance. This will cause the ammeter not to work properly, in which case you'll want to convert to a voltage meter. There are a couple how to's on the board to remove the ammeter from the rallye gauges and insert a Sun or Bosch voltage gauge into the cluster. It looks almost stock.
1972 Dodge Challenger
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Re: 70 Challenger Rallye Dash Elec.Problem
[Re: Dogpro]
#3038997
05/02/22 08:23 AM
05/02/22 08:23 AM
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Posts: 6,095 Valencia, España
NachoRT74
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This is what I found. Black feed wire was shorted against the Green wire and the White wire above it. Green wire feeds the rear harness which has the gas sending unit which I hope was causing my back feed. black wire is pretty much alternator wire to ammeter, with the main splice in the middle green wire pretty much gets a red trace and is the horn wire.There is no a green wire between bulkhead and rear harness. Rear harness get a dark green wire but coming from turning switch ( for high intensity filaments for turning/hazzard/brake lights on one side ) white wire crosing over both wires on pic there is the source for backup lamps running to NSS on transmission. It comes from accesories side of the fuse box. If white and black wires meet together on a peeled off area sure all the accesories will be constantly feedback sourced no matter the ign key position, since ammeter network is a constant batt source. Actually there is not a short here, but alt wire melted by the excess of amperage running thought the bulkhead. Pretty much due the tipical unneficiency of stock alternators, which make them to get more sourcing when revving up to fee dthe car demands and get the batt recharged. The heating point begins on packard terminals on bulkhead hence why most of Mopars gets these cavities melted down. bulkhead conection is available new.
With a Charger born in Chrysler assembly plant in Valencia, Venezuela
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