Since the harness on my 75' is coming on 50 years and would probably like to upgrade the dash gauges and lights to LED's, so looking for a full harness that would work nice in the truck. suggestion please.

I think we need to start leaning on M&H / YearOne to manufacture harnesses for our trucks. There is not a single clip, pin, or connector type found on the Tin Grille trucks that is NOT found on any of the muscle car harnesses that M&H already manufacturers.

Having said that, there really isn't a replacement option. I went as far as pulling all the harness off a donor that was a 74 W200, layed them out on the kitchen table, un-wrapped all the sheathing, cleaned every single terminal, tested continuity of every circuit, greased all the connections, and re-insulated the entire harness and installed it. Every single thing works.

There are some things that should be done like the Ammeter bypass, adding a relay to power the headlights, horns, and blower motor when it's on high speed.

When it comes to LED lights, I'm VERY happy with the bulbs I've purchased from SuperBrightLED's...they cost a little more, but the service is great and they only select quality bulbs to sell on their site. I've purchased the whatever is fairly cheap with a brand name I can't pronounce from Amazon and it's been hit or miss for me. But every bulb in the Ramcharger is now an LED.

Another thing to keep in mind with the dash lights, is that most LED bulbs are polarity specific, so test them as you install them with the cluster out to make it easier to quickly flip the bulb in the socket.

that's good thinking there.

That is a simple wiring system on that truck. I would pull it and inspect it. It can be cleaned up and repaired along with upgrades added. I would install a sub fuse panel for the upgrades.

The gaues are trash, the wiring has been cut in several places and my year is known for getting fried due to factory wiring. Easier to replace whole harness with new wires. Plus with upgrades, I can add stuff mike extra gauges, added speaker with updated stereo and other mods if so desired. Appreciate the feedback though.

There used to be some NOS stuff floating around and sometime showed up on ebay. Unless you are willing to build one from scratch or a kit you may wind up having to source a good used one.

none. Because your vehicle says Dodge on the hood not Shivvy. Been there my head is spinning, I ended up getting a harness from a junkyard donor and untaping that and going thru it to be sure it's in good shape. The harness that was original to mt 85 D150 was THE WORST engine wiring harness I have EVER seen, for butchery.
NPD don't even acknowledge there is such a thing as Dodge trucks. LMC barely does. Brothers truck parts, the list goes on. Im so sick n tired of the aftermarket, having never owned anything besides a Dodge. Junkyards, swap meets, Ebay, your fellow forum members, and the occasional drive around the country and knock on someone's door, to ask what they are gonna do with that old truck that you've noticed that's sat for a while. Or restore/rebuild the parts yourself.

yeah, not fond of the thought of using 50 year old wiring of any kind when the amp meter had a habit of burning out on these models. With added accessories and such, I won't waste my time on it. If I have to make a chevy/ford harness work, that's fine. It's not an item I want to skimp on since I want to keep this truck for a long time.

Ron Francis makes one for Dodge trucks.

https://www.ronfrancis.com/product/608

Thanks Soop, I’ll give them a buzz and get the specks. I really wanted to update all the electronics, lights, stereos and extras on a system that can handle it. With that system you linked might even be good for full fuel injection conversion. 👍🏼

I've used American Autowire on a few projects - '53 F250 update & 12V conversion, LS-swap FJ40s - and been happy with their product.
Zero problems, even years later.
Never even needed to call them for help, and I'm hardly an electrician.

Going thru a wiring harness yourself and verifying it's ok and upgrading as need be, is not *skimping". You do your own upgrades as you go.
I ran a redundant hot for my alternator that doesn't go thru a blade connection besides cleaning up that connector as best as I could.
I also eliminated every fusible link that my truck originally had, by incorporating a small under hood fuse box from a newer vehicles, that has the big MAXI fuses. Everything is soldered crimped and hear shrink wrapped. With the more expensive heat shrink that has the adhesive built in. I found a few bucks and rotted insulation, I replaced several sections of wire, basically anything that I had the least amount of questions about got cut out and replaced.

If's I'm spending thousands to restore a truck and try to use 50 year old brittle, cracked, burned and fatigued wiring in it, then that is SKIMPING. It's easier than trying to fix old stuff with these eye trying to squint and wrap stuff for hours and have to go back through the harness all over again when something don't work properly. Getting to old to sit there and work on stuff with what little time I have.

Id rather have an old wiring harness where you can see it's been properly repaired as needed over something that's all new that someone has done who knows what to it. That's the sort of thing that makes a lot of people run when they're looking at used vehicles unless they know there are new harnesses available. Unless the whole thing is burnt up cut up melted junk.

yup. My 85 D150 came to me with the most butchered wiring harness I have ever seen. It was less work to go get a harness off a junkyard truck, sprawl it all out on the kitchen table, unwrap it completely and go thru IT to make sure allw as OK, and fix the few small areas that had deteriorated from age then rewrap it and put it onto the truck, than it would have been to try and make heads or tails out of the original one.

This was just a start but the main "HOT" from the alternator was spliced, changed color and gauge 3 times in the length of a slant 6 valve cover. and the worst of those was just stripped, twisted and (poorly) taped, dangling directly over the steel fuel line that drapes over the valve cover and goes from fuel pump to carb. IDK how there was even a truck left there, for me to even have a chance to buy// how it hadn't burnt to a crisp long before. So yes it heavily depends on who is working on the harness, and the methods used to do any modifications/repairs.
I completely trust my ways of working on a wiring harness!!!!! but certainly not the P.O.'s....
I have seen some pretty bad wiring butchery over the years here and there but nowhere near the amount of butchery all bundled (and bungled) in one vehicle!!!