Will it actually short shift at WOT? My Shaker wouldn't. It shifted lower if I didn't put it in drag mode.

Good question

Based on "testing" during the drive into work this morning, yes, I can override the shift points programmed for D in Drag Mode by shifting manually. However, with an 8-speed trans, it runs through the low gears pretty quickly.

EDIT: I also spent some time last night watching video of last week's MSHS race in Florida (see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lb7Av7BCAAQ; and thanks to member "Dart 500" for the link). Not only are the RTs all over the place, so are the strategies I see people using to slow their cars down to make an index.

Like others have said, stage deep if possible. Consider better back tires and shorter front tires.

You probably do have a lag in the throttle. I have a friend who is an accomplished NHRA racer and he cannot get what he considers good reaction time from his 1320.

I have seen electronic add ons that are supposed to make this better but not seen anyone say they really worked for them.

Don't know if they allow DEEP staging, but bumping in some makes sense. Never done anything but shallow, so that's something different to try.

Tires... that's gonna happen at some point; will require different wheels to make it worth the effort since the OEM 20x9.5 have pretty limited choices.

As I remember no deep stage. So you'll need to practice bumping in. bump in will slow ET as well. You need to test first.
Doug

I ran my '16 Scat Pack on good tires probably 60 ~ 80 passes a few summers ago. Ran best of 12.01@114mph with a tune in it (July heat).

It was absolutely HORRIBLE to try and cut a light with. I work at Stellantis, and even worked with one of the calibration guys to take all of the pedal drivability delays out of it. Helped a little, but there are inherent things in the fly by wire that wont' let you take all of the delay out.

The harder you get on the converter, the better light it'll cut. Basically because if you can let your foot of the brake with 40% throttle applied, that 40% throttle will move the car forward regardless of what the fly by wire delays are doing.

That said... it's gotta have good tires on it for that to work. As dvw said, the best way I found to fix the problem was learn to bump the car in quite a bit. The shorter rollout helped tremendously. Not to mention, most other guys racing this class don't know any better to do the same thing, so even if you're cutting .100 lights, you'll be miles ahead of most ducks.

Got tires & wheels; hope to drop them off today to get mounted & balanced.

Dropped off, they are... ready when, I know not (Yoda)

For better or worse, here are all my RTs since I started going back to the tracks this year w/ the 1320. I felt like the Sportsman tree RTs were starting to come around, but will definitely be trying some new things suggested above against a Pro tree to see how I can improve. Thx - Brad

You are cheating on the full tree. Leaving before the last yellow. Want to convince yourself? Put the same rollout in the pro and full tree in a practice tree. When you get the hang of it both will be very similar. I haven't hit the tree since December, or been in a car since September. So got it out cold turkey. For sure a little rusty. But you get the idea.
10 hits Full -015, 029, 020,-025, 009, 029, 017, 016, 011, 017
10 hits Pro 037, 039, 035, 063, 037, 019, 018, 027, 017, 018
Doug

I dug out my dusty but trusty practice tree last night... + +

So a pedal commander won’t dial out the fly by wire delay? That sucks. Guess I’ll just stick to a carb.

Are you out putting in the work this weekend? If so Good Luck on making everything better !!! Cheers

That is correct. Lots of delay build in the PCM. The pedal commander just effects part throttle.


Foot on the floor is 100% TPS, no matter what.