I am curious to see if anyone has tried to use an aftermarket shifter (Hurst, B&M etc.) with factory floor shift linkage. As most know with aftermarket shifters, the cable is a P.I.T.A. and creates problems due to the way it can wind up being routed in close proximity to the exhaust.

It would be for my Duster which has an older B&M Pro Ratchet. I like the shifter and I have not had any real issues with the cable melting etc., but I definitely don't like dealing with the routing issues and adjustments.

Attaching a linkage/actuator arm to a shifter mechanism originally designed to be cable operated seems straightforward but may be easier said than done?

I know guys have put these type of shifters under consoles and such but generally retain the cable instead of trying to make it work with the torque shaft.

Also, would this type of deal be durable under harsh conditions? Factory stuff is usually robust enough as long as the parts are in decent shape and the bushings are good.

Found a pic to illustrate so I know it can be done on some level. This looks like a B body application but I imagine it would be pretty similar for an A body.

Thoughts? Suggestions? Thanks.

I would think the biggest issue would be getting the ratio between the shifter stroke and the shift lever movement correct.

I agree, might take some measuring and trial and error but you have to do that with a cable also. The cable uses those jam nuts and the little clevis on the end.

Anyone else?

No help here but I will be watching this thread. Very good idea. I hate screwing around with the cable and have replaced several over the years.



Tim

"slightly old" topic, but the possibility of using an aftermarket shifter with factory linkage may still have appeal.

you need to get one of the old Winters, Fairbanks or Turbo Action shifters, you will never go back

A long time ago I used a Hurst with cable (burned) I cut the cable short and turned shifter around and shifted backwards (reason I still like pushing lever forward instead of pulling back. Tried a rod but engine-trans flex would not allow it to work. The problem, going from a fixed mount to a moving trans.

Stumpy is correct on the lever ratio. Adjusting the cable nuts only aligns the cable to the trans, it does not affect the lever ratio.
using the posted pic as a guide, one might be able to fabe a plate and attach with small vise grips until the correct ration is found. The tack weld it into place, recheck and finish welding.
No welder??? once on place carefully drill one small hole, install snug fitting screw & nut. Recheck. if good drill a second hole.

Measuring the travel of the factory linkage rod on the factory shifter and trying to duplicate that amount of travel should put you pretty close to correct I would think.

I did it in my Volare years ago. Still works great going 30 years now. I cut an old melted cable short. Its attached to the B&M shifter. Then to the bell crank that comes thru the floor. I used the B&M lever and pivot that would've attached at the trans. Vice gripped that piece to the factory floor bell crank. Moved it in and out from the pivot point of the bell crank until the ratio was correct. Then welded the 2 together.
Doug

interesting concept,with a welder and time I'm sure you can get it done, a rear exit shifter works the best for you but with a front exit on My Cuda I went with the longest cable and went straight out the tunnel and around the motor mount and back along the starter and header..no big bends.

I converted my stock shifter to a cable in my 68 Charger, works great

That seems like the worst of both worlds to me
The reason to ditch the stock shifter is to not accidently shift into neutral. The reason the ratchet shifter sucks is because of the crappy cable and the routing needed to keep it from being melted.

Having a ratchet shifter mated to the factory linkage would be the best of both worlds in my opinion. No missed shifts and no stupid cable.

I modified the detents on the shifter, it works positive stops for shifting, it works awesome. sifting from 1st to 2nd push the handle forward, it locks in second, push the button on top of shifter handle holding it down shift to 3rd it locks in third, let go of the button & shift to neutral & it wont go anyfurther until you push the button again

[img]https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/shifter-crap-jpg.243442/[/img]
[img]https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/upload_2020-5-14_23-41-53-jpeg-jpg.1715678777/[/img]
[img]https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/attachments/shift-linkage-jpg.1715679388/[/img]

Something like this?

Yes, I just did it to my stock one, welded & cutting ,grinding

The cable mounting has been made different than in the picture, this was a mock up & the detent plate was more refined. its a manual shift valve body, & has over 12k miles on it, LOTS of use & all is still good

is that a forward pattern ?
i am looking to modify my gate, so looking at both forward and reverse pattern detents.