Using the ladder bar brackets and mounts I have, a set of 28 inch long bars could replace the ladderbars, with three options. My front ladderbar mount is fairly stout, made with 1/4 plate welded to a crossmember of 2 x 3 by . 125 wall rectangular frame. Hear is a pic of my doodling on the idea.

Do you have a copy of "Door Slammers: The Chassis Book"? It's been out of print for a while, but you can find it, such as this used one on eBarf

Just use power management if you have a decent MSD

If the OP was interested in one of these books I have one in mint condition which I bought new around '92. If so, drop me a PM

IMO zero reason you cannot make the car work with a ladder bar. That would truly be the "poor mans" solution

X2 ^^^^

All you really need is power management and decent shocks.
There are cars that go low 7's in the quarter and even faster with ladder bars

With shorter bars you’ll have more adjustments. Make an extender bracket and bolt to your existing holes. Even that can be adjusted up or down by staggering new holes from frame mount holes.

I agree with Al, by moving some weight and playing with shocks you should be able to get the car to work like you want. Also, maybe 28" bars a little too long for a 4-link? I have ladders on my SG car, and 70 lbs of ballast that I move/remove from front to rear, or rear to front depending on what track we're at. I'm modifying my ballast bars this winter to try to keep ballast as far to the right of the car as possible, to offset driver.

Thanks all. I will work with the ladderbars, low rpm launch, rear stiff settings, tied down front as needed. I have a Door Slammers book, thanks. Very little i can do weightwise, everything is already up front . I can come off the transbrake at 3600 to 4000rpm, lower the wheeliebars , will see what options i have from there. I can leave at part throttle on a timer if need be. Engine is set back too far, (17 inch?) Battery and fuel are in front of radiater.

Fighting the exact same issue. Have moved bars, tied front, tightened shocks, wb, all to no avail. Oh, and even tried pulling 10 deg at the hit, no bueno. Car leaves like a dream off the foot, but the button is a complete different story.
Plans for next yr are to buy best shocks I can swing and add weight to front. Thinking about making some weights I can bolt on where factory bumper attached to front frame rails.
Interested to see what you come up with.

My dart worked well at 725 hp/ 9.50 ets, high wheel stands but controlable. Addition of methanol injection pushed it into needing wheelie bars. 850 hp pushed it hard enough i could feel it unload the rear tires when it hit the wheelie bars. Going to a 33x 10.5 hoosier from goodyear 33x15 gave it some wheel speed, which helped. But i have to admit i don't get to play with this car enough to get it sorted out. So what do i do? Take more weight off the front🥺 Guess i just like a challenge🤕

Keep moving instant center back and up to control front end rise (killing the leverage) if that don’t work make those slicks spin. Way back in the day if the F/Modified vette started getting to much traction and wheelstanding, the driver upped the launch rpm to spin tires

Moving the engine FORWARD would be at the top of my list. IMO its back way to far, even an inch or so would make a large difference. . Yes will require some fab work and a new driveshaft but seems to me this woudl be the logical way to go. But also understand if its not something you want to undertake.

This book is very helpful. But I'm using a different website https://freebooksummary.com/category/pilgrim-at-tinker-creek for reading because it allows me to listen to it. It's so comfortable when you are going somewhere of your eyes are tired after long work. This book helped me so much, so I recommend it too.

Whst The frick,DUDE
This a car site, not for mental stimulation and or confessing what causes you stress

Hey with all the aggravation working on Mopar's causes a little "pilgrim at tinker creek" might help....

This. Has it been on scales? What's the percentages? What's the SLR?

Moving 10 or 20 pounds typically makes a difference. But not if it's way heavy on the rear to begin with. And not if it's 10 or 11:1 SLR at 850+HP.

At this time it is50/50 with almost everything in front of the motor. To move the motor would put a lot nore hurt on an already badly hurt budget. So i will hit the back tires, use good shocks back there, tie the front down and ride the wheelie bars to keep the front down. Oh ya, and pray!