Re: 1951 Plymouth Cambridge
[Re: DynoDave]
#2987327
11/20/21 10:40 PM
11/20/21 10:40 PM
|
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,289 nowhere
Sniper
OP
master
|
OP
master
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,289
nowhere
|
Update time.
Spent some time cleaning things up in prep for reassembly. Pulled the tie rod assemblies out so I could clean up the sleeves and install the new tie rod ends I bought. Turns out my plan for less expensive tie rod ends hit a snag. The threaded ends are fine, the location of the zerk fittings would have worked. However, the diameter of the tapered studs was too small and my window for returning them passed, two days ago, lol. Teach me to slack off. So I have new tie rod ends coming. Decided to pull the pitman arm off so I could crape off decades of grease and clean it up, only to decide that I may as well replace the pitman shaft seal. Would have been nice if I remembered that before I finished my tie rod order, oh well NAPA can get it for me for about the same cost
Cut one coil off the Aerostar springs I installed earlier this year. Got them back in where they belong. Bought a Pneumatic cut off tool, but it appears either my compressor can't keep up or the tool is under powered, so I converted an old miter saw into a chop saw and got it done.
Found that my oil pan screws were all loose, I suggest this might be a maintenance item added to the oil change check list. Heck this might even slow up the oil leak I have.
Tomorrow, I hope, I start final assembly on the disc brake swap. I should have all the stuff I need on hand, except the tie rods. Might reinstall the old ones just dso I can move the car about.
|
|
|
Re: 1951 Plymouth Cambridge
[Re: Sniper]
#2987840
11/22/21 02:26 PM
11/22/21 02:26 PM
|
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,289 nowhere
Sniper
OP
master
|
OP
master
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,289
nowhere
|
Sunday update
Another other issue I ran into during final install. The specified hose has a pair of squarish tabs where it passed thru the frame mounted tab. I assume that in the original application those tabs are an alignment feature, in my case it was in the way. So I hand filed off the smaller of the two tabs, it fits fine now. Though the instruction to mention the need to remove a mounting bracket on the hose, easy enough, it makes no mention of those tabs. Again that would have been nice to know. I have the pass side done, driver's side hadn't been started. Spent that time yesterday degunking both sides and cleaning up the tie rod sleeves, pitman arm and other semi related areas. Seriously thinking about dropping the pan to clean and reseal it since I have the tie rod assemblies out of the way and I have a large mess under there. But to be honest this might turn out to be one of the snowball things and I don't want to get that ball rolling. Because I fear the timing cover and rear main seals "ought to be replaced while I am there".
A couple of other minor nitpicky details that fall under the customer service aspect of this disc brake swap. it would have been nice to have the torque specs for the bracket to spindle bolts listed, rather than "Torque to recommended settings for 5/8-18 bolts." Turns out the grade 5 zinc plated bolts supplied need 144 ft/lbs. It would also have been nice to have the caliper mounting bolt torque specs listed as well as the brake hose banjo bolts torque spec, 28 and 32 ft/lbs respectively. I may have mentioned in another update that I had to clearance the bracket to caliper area as the opening was insufficient to clear the caliper. No mention was made of this in the kit instructions and it took me a while to find it but there is a GM TSB that details that clearance requirement, .005 to .012", this kit uses GM metric calipers and 10.87" Mopar rotors.
There are a couple of things about the kit I would have done differently and the instructions would have been much more detailed and clear if I had written them.
So if anyone has a 40-54 Mopar, is thinking about the Rusty Hope kit and you have questions, fire away.
|
|
|
Re: 1951 Plymouth Cambridge
[Re: Sniper]
#3017887
02/22/22 10:55 PM
02/22/22 10:55 PM
|
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,289 nowhere
Sniper
OP
master
|
OP
master
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,289
nowhere
|
I really prefer to have a puller fan but the clearance between the water pump shaft and the radiator precludes any single fan. I could have tried to fit up a pair of smaller fans, but I didn't like the CFM ratings of what would work with the room I had. I tried to find a reference for CFM requirements vs HP produced, good luck there. I did find several that gave a CFM recommendation based on cylinder count, useless. Pretty sure a 300 HP 4 banger is going to need more airflow than my 97 hp flathead 6, but that's not how the cylinder count recommendation works out. After some research and thinking I ended up with a Derale 18217 fan. Designed to work as a pusher or a puller, 1800 cfm on low speed, 2400 on high speed. I did some airflow measurements with the stock fan that I will post up later once I have the numbers for the electric fan. Some might wonder why I wanted to go with an electric fan. Well Engine Masters did a Dyno Shootout and the type of fan I have took 30+ HP to spin that style of fan at 5000 rpm. My stock flathead put out 97 HP when it was new. That's a big chunk though the EM fan had 6 blades, mine has 4, they ran a shroud, no shroud on my setup and If I ever hit 5000 rpm on my flathead I won't be worried about fan HP loss but rather why my rod put a hole in my block, lol. Here's a shot of the stock fan setup, my Trusty Assistant is pulling the radiator.
|
|
|
Re: 1951 Plymouth Cambridge
[Re: Sniper]
#3018094
02/23/22 03:32 PM
02/23/22 03:32 PM
|
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,833 east side of Ohio
basketcase
master
|
master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,833
east side of Ohio
|
Pace yourself...wife had the vid in Fall 2020 and the fatigue still is felt. Great progress.
Dave
1981 Dodge D150 360 auto
|
|
|
Re: 1951 Plymouth Cambridge
[Re: DynoDave]
#3043142
05/17/22 06:25 PM
05/17/22 06:25 PM
|
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,289 nowhere
Sniper
OP
master
|
OP
master
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 6,289
nowhere
|
Got the cooling fan swap done, sort of.
I am tired of buying third world junk and paying first world prices for it. I had to buy three toggle switches before I got one to work without a failure of some sort. First one mechanically locked up after one use. Second one, the cheap pot metal threaded part stripped upon installation. Going to go to Aircraft Spruce and buy a good one I guess, would have been much cheaper in the long run. Then the temperature sending switch, not sensor, typical GM type aftermarket switch, never worked. Engine got up to 210 then I just grounded out the switch lead and the fan came on. Toggled on the high speed and it worked fine too. If I hadn't of gotten my haircut the other day I would be bald right now, lol. Anyway, the details.
Yesterday I did all the electrical work. Not much to say other than it was a long tedious day of routing wires, cutting to length, crimping, soldering, heat shrinking and wire looming.
Used two relays to control the low and high speed functions of the Derale fan I am running. The instructions for the fan kind of casually mention that the low speed portion needs to be running before you fire up the high speed side. So here's how it's wired, for now.
Low speed relay has switched 12v provided by the wiring harness I put in a while back, this is hooked to one side of the relay COIL. The ground side of the relay COIL is hooked to the aforementioned (failed out of the box) GM temperature switch. If it worked this switch would have grounded the relay coil when the temperature of the coolant hit 185ish. Seems there is some slop in the the actual turn on temp. In my testing I ended up just jumpering the switch wire and the fan came on, I figured if the temperature switch hadn't come on by 210 it was either never coming on or was useless for what I wanted. Once this relay is energized it takes power from the battery side of the remote starter solenoid, thru a fusible link and 10 ga. wire, and sends it to the fan low speed connection. It also sends 12v to one side of the high speed relay COIL connection. This was the easy way to ensure that the high speed side only came on once the low speed side was running. Since the high speed relay will not have power to it's coil till the low speed side was energized it was a fail safe setup.
High speed relay COIL gets it's ground from a toggle switch on the dash, for now. I plan to put a temperature switch on this relay to automate it's activation. But I will probably keep the toggle as an emergency override as well. Output side is similar to the low speed relay, fusible link, 10 ga. wire to relay, outputs to fan high speed connection. It works as expected. Will not turn on if the low speed relay is off, toggle switch cycles it on and off manually.
Near future plans, I have two new Speedmaster switches coming, from Jegs. One is set to turn on at 185, off at 175, this will control the low speed fan. The other is designed to turn on at 200 and off at 185. this will control the high speed fan. In order to install them I have a water outlet spacer with two ports coming as well. Fortunately, the flathead uses the same water outlet setup as the pre 79 Mopars do, so that was easy, lol. Otherwise I would be doing it myself. The low speed temperature switch will work just like I have it wired right now, on the high speed side I will wire the higher rated temperature switch in parallel to the toggle switch so that either can turn on the high speed side.
The relays were mounted so as to not drill new holes in the core support.
|
|
|
|
|