Hi Andy,

Why would it be a problem for a low mile, street driven car as long as you keep an eye on the lash? I ask, as I'm thinking of doing similar - I've had back to back failures with Comp, then Erson hydraulic roller lifters and was thinking of swapping over to the AMC solid variety. It's for a 505 stroker, with a modest Comp Hydraulic roller. It's a super pain in the bum because every time I have a problem, I have to pull one of the heads to get in to inspect (running Indy EZ heads with the valley plate that dovetails under the edge..)

Really appreciate your input. Ta!

Sorry but I'm just not understanding the logic of this. Presumably the OP has the solid roller lifters and is planning to purchase a new cam. So why not just buy a solid cam?

Not meaning to hijack the OPs original post but for me, I'm perfectly happy with my cam, it's the hydraulic roller lifters that have been problematic. Two sets, two manufacturers, both have had issues. Rather than roll the dice on yet another, I fancy the simplicity of solid lifters. They're a bit lighter too. I would have thought that with the slightly lower spring rates and less aggressive ramp, solid rollers should have an easier life on a modest hydraulic roller cam?

My car is definitely not a race car - probably less than 1500 miles a year and maybe an occasional trip up the strip for 'run what you brung' night.

I'm considering a hydraulic roller. A friend suggested using a solid roller lifter on it. I'm just asking questions from those who have done it, pro's and cons.

You do not have to pull the heads to remove the valley pan with Indy heads. Slice the RTV between the head and the tray with a knife. Then run the knife under the tray at the china wall. Tap the tray rearward with a block of wood, the RTV will break loose since its been cut. The tray can ow be tipped out of the valley. Done it more than few times.
Doug

Nothing like a bunch of crumbled RTV bits to clean out of the valley !!! While you have that pan out, throw it in the trash and install one with the removable center.

Definitely have to pull at least one head on mine (as far as I can see) - the valley tray dovetails under the heads on both sides so can't be lifted, even if you can break the RTV. Possible you could slide it but I'd have to pull the rad and everything for clearance. Oddly enough, I was planning on fitting the one with the inspection panel but I didn't anticipate how regularly I was going to have to inspect....

I am going to mill my indy valley tray flat and tap it for an inspection plate. That thing is a pita compared to the setup on my victor headed deal.

If you do that, mill it all the way to the front and back. The Indy inspection plate could really do to be the full length of the valley.

I've had good luck with the Herbert roller lifters and cams. I dont run anything crazy - usually around .605 or .620 lift. They drop right in.

I recently made this swap,using a custom spec comp grind. 243/247 @.050 .570/.575 lift split on a 107° Lsa. I used Howard's solid roller lifters, set them at zero lash, fired up great and ran great. I used trick flow dual springs with 190 lbs on the seat and 400 lbs open at .570 lift. Everythig was working out beautifully untill a carb baseplate screw decided to vibrate out and down into my #8 cylinder !!
It smashed between the piston and deck, lifted the head high enough to let water in and hydrolocked the cylinder.. cracking the #8 cylinder wall..
Please check your baseplate screws guys.. it was something i didn't expect to have bite me.

Engine is currently tore down awaiting a rebuild.😥 ... pulled the cam and lifters out.. everything looked fine.

I can see using a solid roller lifter on a hyd roller cam as sort of a “band-aid” for someone who’s trying to remedy a bad situation they’re going through with HR lifters.........like in jungs case.

But....... starting from scratch for a combo that will see pretty limited use?
Just give me the SR cam to go with the SR lifters.

Ha...question for me is whether 3rd time's the charm or it's fool me twice...err...etc...:)

I was going to try the Comp 861-16s but I've just asked Howards about their 91727s to see if they have through pushrod oiling - they are priced attractively for sure.

Yeah, I see that logic. I was just trying to avoid Jung's situation from the start. Also hoping that the HR profile would be easier on parts while street driving. Honestly I didn't know that a " street solid roller" was a thing when I decided to go this route. "Street solid roller" is not a category I recall seeing in catalogs.. now I know.

I had the same sort of thing with Morel lifters, using an Erson 231/236 HR cam in a little 406" engine. Just didn't want to work right for dyno breaking and tuning.. I had solid roller lifters laying about, so put them in after jumped through my own colon for pushrods and used with the HR beehive springs PAC I believe. Per Erson used .006/.008 lash. Engine worked fine, 435HP/445ftlb torque with a basic Performer intake and 8.something:1 compression. S/F....Ken M

I forgot to mention, the Lifters were from Hughes Engines, I think the HRC 91774, which were less expensive than the comp lifters.
I did not open up the pushrod holes on the heads, so I used custom 5/16" Smith Brothers pushrods, I think they are the 0.083" wall or thicker?

My old 451 Stroker had an Ultradyne street roller, 251/251 duration @ 0.050", and not much lift for the duration, I think 0.612" using 1.6:1 rocker arms. It was pretty quiet too using about 0.014"/0.016" cold lash.

I'm not that impressed with the Hydraulic Roller, it really is not quiter, or if it is, I can't tell over all the other rollerized parts in the engine. I still run Harlan Sharp adjustable 1.6:1 rocker arms, and have to adjust pre-load, much like adjusting lash, so not a big difference there.
The Hydraulic roller setup was more expensive than a solid, has heavier lifters, and weaker valve springs, so really recommend a rev-limiter of some type to not float a valve. To me it just seems the HR gives up performance to a solid for maybe a bit less maintance in adjusting valve lash?

So you'd rather pull a head off than just snatch the radiator out?

I pulled my old Indy plate out from the front just slicing the sealer and sliding out then I slid the new Trick-Flow plate in there. The Trick-Flow plate is much nicer than the Indy plate and Summit stocks them

Gus

That's a good looking part - ta for the suggestion! No issues with the fit on the Indy EZ heads?
Might give the sliding technique a go this time.