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front end noise #294398
04/20/09 09:52 PM
04/20/09 09:52 PM
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 18
East Tennessee
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Tnplumber Offline OP
member
Tnplumber  Offline OP
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 18
East Tennessee
I have a bone stock 34k 72 dart 318 a/t with a/c. It has 35k original miles. The front suspension seems to be in great shape and I have recently replaced the shocks. My only complaint is I believe my torsion bars are squeaking. I was wondering how you can grease them?

thanks,

Scott

Re: front end noise [Re: Tnplumber] #294399
04/21/09 08:08 AM
04/21/09 08:08 AM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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scratchnfotraction Offline
I Live Here
scratchnfotraction  Offline
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
jack it up,put on jack stands at the frame

run the t-bar adjuster down to release the tension on the t-bar

remove the clips at the end of the bar in the cross member

mark the bar for referance so it clocked the same way when you re-install it..

slid the bar out toward the back of car,it will come out of the lca pivot

grease up both ends of the bar and re-install it

you might want to spray some kinda of oil on all the rubber bushing while your at it,they will dry out and squeek also

I have had ball joints do the same so lube it up

if you adjuster bolt is all the way off the bell crank it should come right out...but...


some times they can be a little hard,so use a shop rag and wrap it up good and use a set of vise grips to clamp on the bar..now hit it with a hammer to drive the bar back some then out

they make a t-bar removal tool and can be made up with some scarp and thinking..all it needs to do is clamp it with out nicking the metal bar

good luck and be safe with the jack stands,chock the wheels in back and set the brake


Re: front end noise [Re: scratchnfotraction] #294400
04/21/09 08:12 PM
04/21/09 08:12 PM
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 18
East Tennessee
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Tnplumber Offline OP
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Tnplumber  Offline OP
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 18
East Tennessee
Quote:

jack it up,put on jack stands at the frame

run the t-bar adjuster down to release the tension on the t-bar

remove the clips at the end of the bar in the cross member

mark the bar for referance so it clocked the same way when you re-install it..

slid the bar out toward the back of car,it will come out of the lca pivot

grease up both ends of the bar and re-install it

you might want to spray some kinda of oil on all the rubber bushing while your at it,they will dry out and squeek also

I have had ball joints do the same so lube it up

if you adjuster bolt is all the way off the bell crank it should come right out...but...


some times they can be a little hard,so use a shop rag and wrap it up good and use a set of vise grips to clamp on the bar..now hit it with a hammer to drive the bar back some then out

they make a t-bar removal tool and can be made up with some scarp and thinking..all it needs to do is clamp it with out nicking the metal bar

good luck and be safe with the jack stands,chock the wheels in back and set the brake






thanks for the info, excellent answer

Re: front end noise [Re: Tnplumber] #294401
04/21/09 08:42 PM
04/21/09 08:42 PM
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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RapidRobert Offline
Circle Track
RapidRobert  Offline
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
carefully measure your ride height on both sides so you can get the tbars cranked back up to the exact same height so that your alignment settings are not disturbed.


live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
Re: front end noise [Re: RapidRobert] #294402
04/21/09 09:47 PM
04/21/09 09:47 PM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
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scratchnfotraction Offline
I Live Here
scratchnfotraction  Offline
I Live Here
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 15,487
Florida
yea..what he said too...I forgots that

but I allways set my ride hieght by the ground and the fender lip measurement on flat ground

but my A-body allways had headers and needed to be up in the nose some

I used /6 bars with the 383 in it for weight tranzfer

I also uped the 68 Dart to 73 disc and spindles then used m-body 12" rotors,calpers,and brake adapter with 11x2.5 back brakes

with a MP 4-bolt mc adaptor to a alum 2-bolt mc with a manual disc brake prop valve

and used a 79 truck 2-bolt alum mc

with the largest wheel cyl for the back brakes

it would then stop very fast

IMO..look the ball joints and bushings over real good and dont for get the strut rod bushings








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