Going to bleed the brakes this weekend but can't find any pictures on the internet or the FSM showing the bleeder screw. I assume it's near the wheel cylinder but I can't find it in pictures.

Dumb question, I know, but would appreciate some help before I get in there. Thanks.

Mid-cylinder, backside, look at backing plate.

Thank you!

Right above the brake line.Rocky

Go outside and spray it down now with PB Blaster or your penetrant of choice if you haven't opened that bleeder in a while.

That area gets a lot of road grime and salt and you don't want to snap one of those off.

And use a 6-point socket--not a 12-point. DAMHIK.

And check bleeder " Hex " size if yours are Original USA Mopar you should have the big 5/16 bleeders . If wheel cyl s have been replaced , they are usually 1/4" bleeders . CAREFULLY try to turn bleeder , if it doesn't turn with a small 1/4" ratchet or breaker bar , don't go crazy , it will SNAP right off . smear a DAB , NOT a huge BLOB of your favorite brand of never-seize on bleeder threads . makes next brake flush a breeze , and NOT a headache . Ronnie

Someone may have already broken the bleeder screw off. I've bought more then one old Mopar with broken off bleeder screws. It's gotten to the point I really expect to be replacing the wheel cylinders on every used ride I buy. I usually end up replacing the brake lines as well. The line to the rear is usually crusty and ready to fail, and the two lines across the rear axle are just slightly better and often don't survive the wheel cylinder replacement. Gene

I always use anti sieze on the bleeders Last whl cyls I replaced on the 65 were at least 30 years old.The bleeders and lines came right off.Oh yeah I have my Snapon bleeder wrenchs from when I worked.Yeah pricey but the best you can buy to do your work.Rocky

Thanks guys for all the advice. Soaking them in PB Blaster right now.

A lot of times, slightly trying to tighten a frozen fastener will dramatically improve the chances of getting it to loosen. providing one hasn't already started the "shearing" process.
On bleeder screws I've also had luck applying heat to the bleeder with a small hand held butane torch

and has been said, anti-seize the bleeder threads if you get it out. in fact, if you get it out and it was somewhat of a struggle, it would pay to get a new bleeder screw. anti-seize it as well.
i also like to anti-seize brake line fittings. both the threads and the part of the tubing the fitting spins on.
just be careful that none of it gets inside the tubing or mating part. i use the copper stuff, and have had great success over 50+ years using that stuff on all kinds of fasteners.