Just curious. Are any of the following required in NHRA Stock Eliminator class...

belt driven water pump
belt driven fan
belt driven working alternator
factory air cleaner
exhaust mufflers

Thank you.

AIR CLEANERS
Optional. If used, air cleaner must be OEM automotive or retain
OEM configuration. Air-cleaner base may be cut or trimmed,
but welding, bolting, riveting, epoxying, or any other form of
fabrication is prohibited. Ram tubes, velocity stacks, or non-stocktype base plates or ducting prohibited. Cooling holes prohibited in
radiator side panels, etc. Factory air cleaners and/or scoops that
fit through hood must be affixed to carburetor as per OEM only.

EXHAUST SYSTEM
Optional. Adaptor plates, port plates, and header plates
prohibited. Pan evacuation systems prohibited. Turbo
applications, aftermarket header permitted – turbo must be
located in engine compartment. Mufflers and/or maximum
decibel levels may be enforced at certain facilities, according to
any local ordinances that may be in effect. Contact individual
tracks for more information. See General Regulations 1:3.

FAN, GENERATOR, WATER PUMP
Alternator or generator must be engine-driven and functioning.
Belt must be tight enough to drive equipment in a satisfactory
manner without excessive or noticeable slippage. May be
relocated. Aftermarket pulleys permitted. Electrically driven fans
and water pumps permitted. Water pump must bolt on, with no
modifications to block. Use of “smog pump” or air pump for
crankcase evacuation prohibited.

Great info. Thanks.

Of that list, only the functioning alternator is required.

If you are going to race NHRA Stock Eliminator you really invest in a rule book.

It could save you a wasted trip to the track.

Good luck and keep us posted on your project.

Just thought I might reply as to loose/slipping belts running water pumps and alternators. I ran dyno tests and found that with a firm belt tension the engine made more horsepower than when I attempted a loose and slipping belt.

The alternator has to be there and have a belt - that qualifies as functioning - most stock racers I knew ran a kill switch on the field as every little bit adds up

I found no change, got my 64 Savoy race car in early 90s with basically stock 440 and no alt, just the fan motor. Got tired of charging battery between rounds so I installed a Toyota alt with a big pully, driven off the crank. So expecting a little loss but it ran same number as the last week, maybe just different air so I removed belt and ran same number again not even a hundredth. Ran same number and charged battery, win win. Oh and it charges at 14-15 volts except when idling
This same alt will be going on the 71 E/Stock/A Duster

Functioning or not, maintaining enough and consistent voltage can be a factor in running consistent and predictable ET's. It really wasn't enough, but I have a 50 amp alternator on my Dart Sport and still charged the battery between rounds because the electric water pump & fan were cooling it between rounds.