Re: In vehicle cam bearing work
[Re: sam64]
#2885195
02/07/21 04:42 PM
02/07/21 04:42 PM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,331 Clinton, NJ
njmopar
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Yeah, slowly coming to that realization. PITA as this truck barely fits in my garage. Now I got to figure out how to hoist the motor out how it sits.
Anyone familiar with the topic of a tight cam after bearing install? I have seen that come up a few times when searching cam bearings. Wondering if it was more with a certain brand then others.
Last edited by njmopar; 02/07/21 05:06 PM.
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Re: In vehicle cam bearing work
[Re: jlatessa]
#2885384
02/08/21 12:04 AM
02/08/21 12:04 AM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,331 Clinton, NJ
njmopar
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Boy, those don't look like wear problems, look like a ham-handed cam install.....
Joe Well, then it was the factory. I do see others with the same weird marks. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-ram-tech/319592-removing-cam-bearing.htmlI am wondering if this could be related to my burnt exhaust valve issue. I haven't removed the valve yet (got new casting heads from Jegs), but it looks like a chunk of the back side of the valve or seat is gone. Maybe this got thrown through the engine? The builder I used for my 383 is swamped with work for about 8 weeks. I may attempt to do this myself and inspect all other bearing surfaces as well.
Last edited by njmopar; 02/08/21 09:35 AM.
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Re: In vehicle cam bearing work
[Re: njmopar]
#2885545
02/08/21 02:17 PM
02/08/21 02:17 PM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,238 Looking for a way out of Middl...
IMGTX
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I did them, in car once. I bought the tool because pulling the engine wasn't an option at the time and it had to be done. For the rear bearing I just pulled the tranny loose and knocked it out installed the new one and slid it back into place. Where there is a will there is a way. I did have to pull the radiator but not the grill to get the room I needed for the tool. I paid $300 for the tool but they are a lot cheaper now. The tool I bought looked like this but I bought it from NAPA https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-18000When installing the cam bearing on a many Mopar V8 engines there are oiling holes in the upper portion of the bearing that are not visible when looking at the installed bearing from the top of the engine. When you knock the bearing out you will see the extra holes. Make sure you install the new bearing with the holes correctly lined up. And I agree that damage looks like a defective bearing or installation. Not wear.
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Re: In vehicle cam bearing work
[Re: jlatessa]
#2885550
02/08/21 02:39 PM
02/08/21 02:39 PM
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,838 Kirkland, Washington
Pacnorthcuda
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Interesting, your link shows almost identical damage to those bearings.
Puzzling type of damage.....
Joe Sure as hell does look the same. I’m thinking it’s damage caused during installation of the BEARINGS themselves, not the cam.
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Re: In vehicle cam bearing work
[Re: IMGTX]
#2885568
02/08/21 03:32 PM
02/08/21 03:32 PM
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Posts: 1,331 Clinton, NJ
njmopar
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As all the thoughts in my mind settle down, I think I will do it this way:
- Once the snow goes away and temps get warmer, I will drag the truck outside to pull the engine. No room to maneuver with this truck in my garage. I am only a starter, bellhousing and flexplate away at this point. - In the meantime I will drop the pan and see what the bottom end looks like. I am curious if the main bearings show same issue, given they are oiled the same. - If bottom end is shot, I will send to machine shop. - If bottom end is ok, then I will do the cam bearings myself and rent a tool.
Already ordered a Mopar high volume oil pump as if I am in there, might as well.
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Re: In vehicle cam bearing work
[Re: 6PakBee]
#2885588
02/08/21 04:09 PM
02/08/21 04:09 PM
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[/quote] I would comment though that few stock engines need a high volume oil pump. Just more parasitic horsepower loss and more wear on the cam gear. My usage for this truck isnt easy. It doesnt get used much (93K miles since I bough it new), but I tow my near 9000lb travel trailer and a 24' enclosed car trailer with whatever fits inside. So it is working pretty hard most times in 3rd gear (3.92 gears). I was wondering if oiling was any contributing factor. If any towing trip did it, it was our cross country Grand Tetons and Yellowstone trip. My truck was sucking wind up the Rockies. And I think I already had my burnt exhaust valve at that time, just not occurring as often.
Last edited by njmopar; 02/08/21 04:14 PM.
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Re: In vehicle cam bearing work
[Re: njmopar]
#2885831
02/09/21 12:57 PM
02/09/21 12:57 PM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,238 Looking for a way out of Middl...
IMGTX
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The number one improvement I can say should be done to small blocks are the oil holes behind the filter in the adapter plate. 340/360 LA & 5.9 Magnums are supposed to have 6 to 8 holes for oil to pass from the block to the filter. 318 LA & 5.2 Magnums usually have 4 holes and that is too few. First thing I do is add more holes or replace the 4 hole plate with a 6/8 hole plate. Oil is your life blood for an engine and mopar gave the 318's a clogged artery. I know you said yours was a 5.9 but look at that filter plate. More holes won't hurt a bit.
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Re: In vehicle cam bearing work
[Re: 440_Offroader]
#2886234
02/10/21 10:44 AM
02/10/21 10:44 AM
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,525 God's Country Maryland
GODSCOUNTRY340
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Looks like the installer turned that bearing after it was installed to line up the oil holes. The proper way to do this is to remove the bearing and re-install it but it looks like they just turned the pressure up and forced the bearings to turn in the bores.
I love the smell of Deer guts in the morning, it smells like... VICTORY!
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Re: In vehicle cam bearing work
[Re: GODSCOUNTRY340]
#2886629
02/11/21 01:16 AM
02/11/21 01:16 AM
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I have been here before, 360 magnum, over 200,000 mikes, ran perfect, cam bearings all looked like that. I noticed they beat out of the block very hard, the new ones went in like any normal engine. The cam turned with my fingers with new bearings. I think it was caused by stress/fatigue/ dirt/burrs on original install. The rod bearings were also down to copper. The oil passages in the block were already bigger than old small blocks, other than 1 behind the oil filter. I don't think your oil or towing was the issue, just fatigued at install, from what I could see.
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