Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration
[Re: NITROUSN]
#2884909
02/06/21 11:22 PM
02/06/21 11:22 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,366 Cleveland, Ohio
northcoastmopar
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,366
Cleveland, Ohio
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As far as I can recall the factory cross member in that year was bolted directly to the frame rails. You might have to research that to be sure. I can not recall it being shimmed down. That 205 case is tough. I would fix any visable leaks and run it as is. Save your money. It has plenty of leaks. I’ll get a seal kit for it and clean it up.
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Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration
[Re: NITROUSN]
#2885553
02/08/21 02:51 PM
02/08/21 02:51 PM
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Joined: May 2014
Posts: 206 Paducah, KY USA Earth
jcruse64
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 206
Paducah, KY USA Earth
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Saw your thread on RamchargerCentral, and answered there, but you should be able to get a wrench on those bolt heads; I don't remember a "cap" on those bolt heads. It has a small plate under the two bolts, but mine did not had a bent-up keeper on the two bolts, on my '73. As I'd said over there, I'd put new mount bushings in, while it's out.
On the transmission crossmember, mine is a bolted-on situation, also, so I'm guessing that's a factory thing. How is the tailshaft mount? Mine was bad, and the engine/tranny had torqued towards the driver side, to the point that the tailshaft mount was vibrating a notch on the crossmember. I got a new mount, loosened everything up, and straightened the whole thing out. I still have vibration that starts around 42 mph, so something is still not right on mine. Stub shaft was balanced with the other 2 driveshafts, along with new Spicer u-joints, but I've read that it does not take much to get the stub shaft to cause vibration in these trucks.
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Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration
[Re: jcruse64]
#2885665
02/08/21 09:25 PM
02/08/21 09:25 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,366 Cleveland, Ohio
northcoastmopar
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,366
Cleveland, Ohio
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Saw your thread on RamchargerCentral, and answered there, but you should be able to get a wrench on those bolt heads; I don't remember a "cap" on those bolt heads. It has a small plate under the two bolts, but mine did not had a bent-up keeper on the two bolts, on my '73. As I'd said over there, I'd put new mount bushings in, while it's out.
On the transmission crossmember, mine is a bolted-on situation, also, so I'm guessing that's a factory thing. How is the tailshaft mount? Mine was bad, and the engine/tranny had torqued towards the driver side, to the point that the tailshaft mount was vibrating a notch on the crossmember. I got a new mount, loosened everything up, and straightened the whole thing out. I still have vibration that starts around 42 mph, so something is still not right on mine. Stub shaft was balanced with the other 2 driveshafts, along with new Spicer u-joints, but I've read that it does not take much to get the stub shaft to cause vibration in these trucks. My tail shaft was butchered like the rest of the install. The horizontal trans mount bolt wasn’t installed through the bushing that is surrounded by the rubber...it was installed through the rubber in a hole cut through under the bushing. Was hard to get the bolt out.
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Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration
[Re: northcoastmopar]
#2885681
02/08/21 10:10 PM
02/08/21 10:10 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 18,425 UPPER MICHIGAN, MARQUETTE COUN...
NITROUSN
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Posts: 18,425
UPPER MICHIGAN, MARQUETTE COUN...
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Was able to get my phone up there and get a pic. I see what I have now, it’s a pretty stout plate that straddles both bolts with a corner bent over each of the bolt heads.
Just got to get something in there to bend the corner down.
Fun.
That's the way I pictured it. The tabs have to be bent back to get the bolts out. That case is heavy and can be a pain in the butt getting the bolts back in. If you are just replacing the seals I would do it in the truck.
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Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration
[Re: jcruse64]
#2885731
02/09/21 12:56 AM
02/09/21 12:56 AM
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 339 Gilroy,CA.
mopardude318
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 339
Gilroy,CA.
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I'd put new mount bushings in, while it's out.
where do you source the new bushings for the divorced transfer case crossmember mounts?
408 Stroker 533 HP 520 FT LBS...........................1970 Dart RMS AlterKation
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Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration
[Re: northcoastmopar]
#2886289
02/10/21 12:12 PM
02/10/21 12:12 PM
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Joined: May 2014
Posts: 206 Paducah, KY USA Earth
jcruse64
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 206
Paducah, KY USA Earth
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Saw your thread on RamchargerCentral, and answered there, but you should be able to get a wrench on those bolt heads; I don't remember a "cap" on those bolt heads. It has a small plate under the two bolts, but mine did not had a bent-up keeper on the two bolts, on my '73. As I'd said over there, I'd put new mount bushings in, while it's out.
On the transmission crossmember, mine is a bolted-on situation, also, so I'm guessing that's a factory thing. How is the tailshaft mount? Mine was bad, and the engine/tranny had torqued towards the driver side, to the point that the tailshaft mount was vibrating a notch on the crossmember. I got a new mount, loosened everything up, and straightened the whole thing out. I still have vibration that starts around 42 mph, so something is still not right on mine. Stub shaft was balanced with the other 2 driveshafts, along with new Spicer u-joints, but I've read that it does not take much to get the stub shaft to cause vibration in these trucks. My tail shaft was butchered like the rest of the install. The horizontal trans mount bolt wasn’t installed through the bushing that is surrounded by the rubber...it was installed through the rubber in a hole cut through under the bushing. Was hard to get the bolt out. Mine was broken. The one on it also had a hole for lining up and bolting the bottom of the "V" to the crossmember. My replacement did not. I don't remember the corners on my plate being bent up for a "keeper". Maybe I forgot, lol. Good luck!
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Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration
[Re: mopardude318]
#2886291
02/10/21 12:14 PM
02/10/21 12:14 PM
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Joined: May 2014
Posts: 206 Paducah, KY USA Earth
jcruse64
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 206
Paducah, KY USA Earth
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I'd put new mount bushings in, while it's out.
where do you source the new bushings for the divorced transfer case crossmember mounts? https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-9-4101G-UNIVERSAL-MOUNT/dp/B000CN9BZ0/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Energy+Suspension%27s+9.4101G+Universal+Mount&link_code=qs&qid=1612973356&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-2&tag=mozilla-20 These are perfect replacements for the OEM rubber ones. I bought 205 bushings for a Bronco of that era, and they did not work. These do. Thanks goes to user KurtfromLaquinta on RCC; he;d used them when he rebuilt his 1974 W100, and they worked well for him.
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Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration
[Re: jcruse64]
#2886636
02/11/21 02:08 AM
02/11/21 02:08 AM
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 339 Gilroy,CA.
mopardude318
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 339
Gilroy,CA.
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I'd put new mount bushings in, while it's out.
where do you source the new bushings for the divorced transfer case crossmember mounts? https://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspension-9-4101G-UNIVERSAL-MOUNT/dp/B000CN9BZ0/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Energy+Suspension%27s+9.4101G+Universal+Mount&link_code=qs&qid=1612973356&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-2&tag=mozilla-20 These are perfect replacements for the OEM rubber ones. I bought 205 bushings for a Bronco of that era, and they did not work. These do. Thanks goes to user KurtfromLaquinta on RCC; he;d used them when he rebuilt his 1974 W100, and they worked well for him. alright thanks! Looks like I have to order 2 of those kits?
408 Stroker 533 HP 520 FT LBS...........................1970 Dart RMS AlterKation
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Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration
[Re: northcoastmopar]
#2891773
02/22/21 09:52 AM
02/22/21 09:52 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 10,228 Colleyville
3hundred
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I Live Here
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Posts: 10,228
Colleyville
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Also, one freeze plug on each side have been replaced with the expandable rubber-type plugs and look to have been leaking pretty good. I'm not sure I can get at them to replace them with metal plugs, if I can't are these expandable rubber plugs a decent solution or do they typically leak? I think they're a cheap easy solution for something you're about to sell, if you want the buyer to have to do it right later. NEVER in my car.
'68 Fury Convertible '69 300 Convertible '15 Durango 5.7 Hemi '16 300 S Hemi
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Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration
[Re: northcoastmopar]
#2891831
02/22/21 11:57 AM
02/22/21 11:57 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 18,425 UPPER MICHIGAN, MARQUETTE COUN...
NITROUSN
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 18,425
UPPER MICHIGAN, MARQUETTE COUN...
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The speedo cable was connected to the trans, not the TC. There is a cap on the TC now where a speedo cable would be connected. I don't know if my speedo cable has enough length to reach the TC.
Then you have the wrong cable. Not that it wont work. High range 1 to 1 it will be fine as long as you have the right gear for your axle ratio. Low range is another story. For now get the bugs out and the odds and ends you can do later.
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Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration
[Re: NITROUSN]
#2891837
02/22/21 12:19 PM
02/22/21 12:19 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,833 east side of Ohio
basketcase
master
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master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,833
east side of Ohio
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you're this far into it...pull the engine and replace all the freeze plus, reseal regasket, freshen up the engine paint, etc.
Dave
1981 Dodge D150 360 auto
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Re: 73 W100 Drivetrain vibration
[Re: basketcase]
#2891992
02/22/21 08:36 PM
02/22/21 08:36 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,605 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Posts: 10,605
Freeport IL USA
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The motor mount bracket looks to me like someone put a 318 bracket on a 360. The plug wire is hiding the rear lug, but it looks to me that the bracket is tight against the ear on the block, and the washers are taking up space because the bolt was too long. The front of the bracket used washers to take up the space between the ear on the block and the bracket. I've seen that trick several times before, not that I would have ever done it. I'm in agreement with replacing all the freeze plugs. If two have already been replaced because they leaked, the others can't be far behind. Don't forget the two freeze plugs at the back of the block, between the block and the trans. Replace the crappy rubber junk with either steel or brass replacement plugs. New gaskets and a repaint isn't a bad idea either. Its pretty easy to spend someone else's money! Gene
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