71 B (&E) Body Disc Brake Leaking Distribution Block
#2858907
12/12/20 12:04 PM
12/12/20 12:04 PM
|
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 705 Morningside, Long Island
scatcity
OP
super stock
|
OP
super stock
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 705
Morningside, Long Island
|
Greetings, I'm having a redundant issue with a leaking metering/distribution block on my 71 Charger SE, 383 4V, original front disc brake car. I just replaced the entire brake system w/ new and or rebuilt quality components, from booster to wheel cylinders, new lines, everything, and have a persistent leaking issue with this metering block. I purchased the Inline prop valve / block kit after I discovered my original block was leaking from the bottom pin area where they commonly leak. I installed the BLK251 / BLK 252 Inline kit. The BLK252 block leaked out the gate, I received a free replacement, that one leaked out of the gate. In the interim, I rebuilt my original with the Muscle Car Research LLC kit, rebuilt it to the letter of instructions, and, it leaks ONLY when I depress the brakes to bleed them. I'm assuming the new seal may need to swell up a bit to seal properly??? It's currently sitting and I'll check in a bit. I'm waiting for a 3rd Inline replacement block which I should have Monday. I'm having a hard time swallowing 2 new defective blocks although anything is possible I guess. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated, and or if anyone has a known good one to sell I'd be interested.
Last edited by scatcity; 12/12/20 07:53 PM.
|
|
|
Re: 71 B Body Disc Brake Leaking Distribution Block
[Re: scatcity]
#2859041
12/12/20 05:42 PM
12/12/20 05:42 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,808 Rio Linda, CA
John_Kunkel
Too Many Posts
|
Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,808
Rio Linda, CA
|
New seals shouldn't have to "swell up" to seal.
The INTERNET, the MISinformation superhighway
|
|
|
Re: 71 B Body Disc Brake Leaking Distribution Block
[Re: dragon slayer]
#2859955
12/14/20 05:21 PM
12/14/20 05:21 PM
|
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 705 Morningside, Long Island
scatcity
OP
super stock
|
OP
super stock
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 705
Morningside, Long Island
|
Muscle LLC advises to use a 12 point 20MM socket for the nut, which interestingly made me aware that metric sets for some unknown reason all go from 19 to 21. Why do they skip 20? Regardless, I picked up a 12 point quality 20mm socket and it didn't work so good, it started rounding almost immediately. I used a 12" crescent wrench and I got it. One part Muscle LLC doesn't advise in their autopsy, is that after the factory manufactures these, there's a machined rectangular punch at the top on the brass near the rim where the nut goes in, that I suspect acts as a "lock", anti nut back-off preventer and the inner nut shank area is machined like dental bridging to prevent back off. The brass is soft enough to remove the nut and just a slight tap after the rebuild to re-lock it prevented any leakage whatsoever from the threaded area, mimicking what Kelsey Hayes did seemed the only logic, the inner threaded area behind the punched area was deformed slightly which triggered the locking theory. Perhaps that was a mistake on my part, not sure. The leakage was at the pin and, it very well may be bent. The pin did have a little play upon rebuild after install and I did suspect it may of been bent which may of contributed to it's catastrophic failure, I did recently change the spark plugs and may have tapped it causing its demise? But it only leaked when pressure was applied unlike the 2 previous Inline pieces which just leaked outright. Just the same there is a happy ending, I just received my 3rd Inline block hours ago, installed it, and it's dry. In this case, the third one from them was a charm. Thanks all regarding.
|
|
|
|
|