It bumps back and forth when I turn on the blinker, any idea what causes this? I have it set to a good solid ground on the dash frame.

Also, the voltage dropped super low, to about 11.3 today. I think the electric fan was draining it, so I bumped up the thermostat setting for the fan to kick on at about 190 degrees. That seemed to help, but it seems like I have a weak point in the system. I have a 80 amp powermaster style alternator (2 wire), new voltage regulator, battery was just tested and they said it was good (about one year old sears diehard gold). Battery wires are new and good solid connection between the terminal and posts.

Any suggestions?

I would check my grounds to the motor and motor
to body. Honestly, probably 90% of electrical problems are in bad connections and grounds.

I should mention, the lights dim down big time when the car is at idle.... Please, any and all suggestions are appreciated!! I want to get this whooped this weekend. The Cuda is my main transportation right now...

what kinda car? what ignition? and what voltage regulator?

Might be a voltage limiter on back of gauge panel on pre 74`s,dimming lights could be idle rpm related.When I had limiter go bad it pegged and smoked but they affect all guages.Have you done the add the relays to headlight conversion.I don`t know what year your cuda is but here is my

Voltage limiter has nothing to do with the amp gauge so that won't be your problem.

Don't think he's got an ammeter anymore.

Based on your symptoms, which are endemic to old MoPars, your problem is bad connections.

The bulkhead connector is the usual suspect.

also, just because you have an 80A alternator doesn't mean you have 80A, especially at idle.

I would clean the bulkhead connections, rewire the lights and fan so that a relay connects them to the battery and the only power going thru the bulkhead connector is the control voltage to switch those relays.

To be honest I'd throw the electric fans in the trash.

Next, try to get a spec sheet for your alternator, if you aren't turning it fast enough at idle nothing will help. You may have to juggle pulley sizes.

The farther you stray from stock the more engineering YOU have to do.

If you're running the Powermaster upgraded Chrysler style alternator, what you're describing may be normal. At idle, output is well below 80 A... not enough for a decent sized electric fan and other needs.

Advertised idle output is 50 amps at 2400 alternator RPM. It depends on idle speed but you need around a 7" crank pulley to get alternator 2400 RPM at idle. A smaller crank pulley would make the problem worse.

Checking/cleaning the connections is a good start but you probably need more alternator - either a Denso or GM case - with an electric fan on the street. Putting a mechanical fan back on would help a lot (plus they usually cool better!).

I'm running a similar setup and "get by" with a mechanical fan. That means living with some dimming when idling at night which was normal for these cars from new. At some point I'll upgrade the alternator but not a first priority right now.

Sorry, I should have mentioned these things:

70 Cuda with electronic ignition
Aftermarket Autometer Gauges
Flexalite 220 electric fan w/adjustable thermostat
440 with a mild rebuild

What is the GM or Denso style alternator that I can upgrade to? Do you have any part numbers? Is it a direct swap?

THanks!

something that helped me was a second 10 gauge wire going from alt hot to starter relay hot, this was a short-cut back to battery. It helped, but did not cure dim lights. I am running stock alt/regulator setup.

The path of least resistance....

i had a problem with a connector on one of the alternator plugs...also, to help with dimming lights, you can install relays and have a much better system - even with sealed beams...like going from candles to flashlights

I sent you a PM, maybe someone else could confirm?

Just a quick question about the wiring. Did you keep all existing wiring there, and just add the wire from the alternator directly to the starter relay?

Also, I'm assuming by "hot", you mean the wire on the back of the alternator that is bolted on, and on the starter relay, it's the hot terminal located at the bottom of the relay with the larger nut (runs directly to battery right now).

Thanks!