1965 Satellite 383,4 speed. I would imagine that the motor will make at least 400hp. Did they use the ball and trunnion behind the 426 wedge and the Hemi?

How much power can you run through these?

I know these things, and they aren't going to happen at least now.

I can have a new driveshaft made so that I can have 2 u joints, that may happen. $500

I can replace the transmission tailshaft to accept a slip yoke.

Thanks

that is odd isn't it?
I thought by 65 it was all slip yoke and the last ball an trunion was in 64 with the pushbuttons.

regardless the rear will let go first.
While the bearings might eat themselves, the bar won't give and the housing won't give either.

Talk to Rocky, he's been running one hard for years.

Rocks ? ... his FlintsStone Mobile has a ball and T ? .., I thought that gEeZeRs power was DIRECT DRIVE .., through his size 10 shoes !

Now ..,, a stick car ? ... I’d get a slip yoke combo

1965 was the first year for the slip yolk on an auto trans. Manual still had ball & trunnion in 65.

You are fine as long as the driveshaft angles are correct. Hemi drag cars back in the day made more torque and power and the B & T driveshafts were fine.

Do people convert these to that modern cv type U-joint I see in modern RWD cars?

Do those have less vibration and noise?

My 64 300 ran a B&T on the front of the driveshaft for years. Warmed up 413 with a stick an N50's in the back. I did have issues with the rear U joint on more than one occasion though but never the B&T.

My current rides runs them both front and rear, but it's lucky to be pushing 100hp.

65 4 speeds last year for B&Ts.Autos had slip yoke.Mine has been in since new.Broke many rears but the front is still great.My 440 has 600 HP now.Even with slicks never broke the front.My kid ran B%T in his 62 300 for 3 years and beat it to death.I think I still have his shaft in the garage He went to nes style trans from Cope.As long as they have grease and sealed they last Oh yeah my 57 had the OE one also.I did replace the torn boot on it.All 4 speed came with B&T till 66 even maxies.Rocky

Everything is stock so the angles should be fine. I threw on a kit from Brewer’s.

cheapest thing to do is get a bolt on cummins 727 yoke--think its a 1310----

One word of caution on the B&T. Make sure you don’t over grease the unit on a drag car. I have seen a few boots burst from grease settling in the boot over time then at very high speeds - 120 +, the centrifugal force rips the boot. This was back in the late 60’s, maybe the new boots are thicker.

If the boots are rubber, I don't trust anything rubber these days longevity wise.Suspension bushings as an example, I've seen new brand name ones start to fail in fiver years or less. Even some of the hoses seem to age pretty quickly. As far as the B+T, they'll take the abuse no problem.
Myself, I'd vote for conversion of some sort

Elaborate please

If using a B & T, do the driveline angles need to be reduced, or is 4 down front 4 up rear still good? Or would you only need the rear to have some "up" angle and the trans be at 0?

The B&T joint is CV joint, the typical u joint is not a CV joint. I suspect Mopar phased B&T out for cost and maintenance reasons, as they are a better design in reality. I can't comment on their ultimate power ratings, other then anything mechanical has a design limit. Mopar using a CV with a typical u joint has more potential vibration design issues then two properly phased u joints, and I don't know exactly why Mopar went with a mixed joint solution back in the day. I would think with only a single u joint, the less angle the better.