Speaking of airflow, I think the Contour fans are presenting a little restriction (when they are off) that is more important at low speeds.

I'm thinking of rigging another relay to run them at low speed all the time, and still have the temp switch turn them on full. Either use the nichrome resistor that the fans come with, or a big 1 ohm resistor (both of which I have). That'll also cut down on the sudden load thrown on the alternator when they kick on, which makes idling interesting (non-existent low speed torque with 272@.050).

thoughts?

You could use a motor controller to basically give you infinitely variable speed based on coolant temps.

This will minimize any sudden hit to the charging system and give you the cooling you need rather than the cooling you get.

https://derale.com/product-footer/e.../pwm-fan-controller-push-in-probe-detail

Yes, of course I could but that requires spending money, to which I am allergic
Also there are mixed reviews on many of the common PWM controllers (reliability problems). Someday I'll build my own, it's not that complicated to design, but I'm feeling lazy at the moment

So for now, is there any point in keeping the fans turning on low speed? I could just hook up the resistor with jumpers and see if it makes any difference.

Wouldn't hurt to see if it does anything useful. If it does you can put in a more permanent solution, if not nothing really lost, just be sure the resistor can handle the heat.

I'd say nothing wrong, sounds like system works perfect, first of boil point is 212, increase 3 degrees per pound of cap, so 16 lb cap, boil point is about 260, all cars with factory electric fans operate in the 240 on and off at 205 range, fuel atomizes best around 210, if your staying below the 200 mark your system is perfect, Licensed tech for 38 years, I wish people would understand this more. Stat is to help in heating engine up to the temp range you wish to be the coolest temp for it to run at and control the speed of the flow in the system, it has little to do with highest temp reached, 90 % of the time if overheat is experienced there is generally another issue. I lick to see all my cars and customers cars run around or just below the 200 - 210 range. as for the fan cycle on and off, that is what they do, if it cycles to much, you have room to increase your on setting a little, let it get just a little hotter before it comes on.

If you temporarily hook up a DC ampmeter to the fan wires you can monitor whether the blades are blocking airflow.
If the amps significantly drop as you drive at higher and higher speeds the blades are blocking airflow.

Except, as I understand it, the fans are just freewheeling so there should be no current drop to see.

Thanks for the suggestion... but wouldn't the amps drop anyway (because the fan is having to do less work at speed, with the ram air coming in)?

trying to fix a problem that doesnt exist

Yep.

Thanks, I feel better now.
I want my engine to run just above the thermostat temp while cruising on the highway. Right now it doesn't so something isn't doing its job.
Yes, I know 198 is not overheating so I really don't have to fix it. As long as it doesn't get higher than that while idling in traffic it's passable but not ideal.

Anyhow I got the Milodon high-flow 180 degree 'stat this afternoon but it's too hot to run around draining and refilling coolant today!

I've had several Auto Meter expensive race mechanical gauges read way hotter than the engine coolant was, one would read 140F when it the coolant flowing out of the upper radiator hose into the radiator was below 95F
I found that one by sticking my finger in the swirling coolant

Good point Cab, I can't recall if I checked the mechanical gauge against a pot of boiling water or a mercury lab thermometer.
But the old and the new stat opens right about the temp it's supposed to(183-184F), so I can tell it's pretty close.

I put in the Milodon high-flow thermostat today. It looks just like the 'stat that was in there (and the old one has a Pentastar logo on it, too). Didn't make any difference

So the next move would be a new aluminum radiator since rodding or recoring the copper/brass one would likely be more expensive than buying a modern one.
Or I can just live with the slightly-higher-than-I-like highway temps, as previously pointed out