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conv. sub frame #278326
04/05/09 04:25 PM
04/05/09 04:25 PM
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 134
wisconsin
J
jp66charger Offline OP
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jp66charger  Offline OP
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J

Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 134
wisconsin
A friend of mine has a 67 satellite convertible. Being a convertible, it is somewhat different than my car and he was wondering how other people built sub frame connectors for their drop tops. Any suggestions or pics would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the help. JP

Re: conv. sub frame [Re: jp66charger] #278327
04/05/09 06:34 PM
04/05/09 06:34 PM
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albany ny
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05dakota Offline
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except for reinforced rocker panels and torque boxes it is basicly the same as any 67 b body

Re: conv. sub frame [Re: 05dakota] #278328
04/05/09 06:52 PM
04/05/09 06:52 PM
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 134
wisconsin
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jp66charger Offline OP
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wisconsin
Okay, appreciate the feed back. I assume he can make them just like a hardtop car then.

Re: conv. sub frame [Re: jp66charger] #278329
04/05/09 07:43 PM
04/05/09 07:43 PM
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albany ny
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05dakota Offline
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i agree

Re: conv. sub frame [Re: 05dakota] #278330
04/05/09 09:49 PM
04/05/09 09:49 PM
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Posts: 6,167
Maryland
GO_Fish Offline
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AFIK, the sub frame connectors were designed for cars without torque boxes. To get the standard B connector to fit the 'vert, the torque box may need to be peeled back and modified for the connector to fit the subframe properly. I have not done this myself, just thinking out loud.


Scott B. "I'm a self-made man... I started with nothing, and I still have most of it!" 68 360 rusty B'cuda 'vert (GO Fish)13.59@ 98.72 mph 69 340 GTS stock 14.18@ 95.60 mph 01 5.9L Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4x4 01 3.5L 300M 16.23@ 86.97 mph
Re: conv. sub frame [Re: GO_Fish] #278331
04/09/09 12:50 AM
04/09/09 12:50 AM
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Posts: 746
Missouri
NFURY8 Offline
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We had to make our own connectors for my Fury, but the torque box was still peeled back so the connector could be welded directly to the frame.


C-Body DryDock Bigger is Better!
Re: conv. sub frame [Re: NFURY8] #278332
04/09/09 08:49 AM
04/09/09 08:49 AM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,277
West Coast, USA
jbc426 Offline
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I installed US Cartool connectors in two cars, one was an A-body convertible. They both had torque boxes already in them from the factory. I slotted one set of the boxes and peeled back the other set to be able to weld the connectors completely to the frame. I then welded the boxes back up. The difference in chassis rigidity in both cars was amazing!


1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
Re: conv. sub frame [Re: jbc426] #278333
04/09/09 09:53 PM
04/09/09 09:53 PM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,190
SW MO
closer9 Offline
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Quote:

I installed US Cartool connectors in two cars, one was an A-body convertible. They both had torque boxes already in them from the factory. I slotted one set of the boxes and peeled back the other set to be able to weld the connectors completely to the frame. I then welded the boxes back up. The difference in chassis rigidity in both cars was amazing!




Do those get welded solid to the floor? I'd like to add a set to my '67, but it was undercoated when I got it, and I've since added a bit more. I'd like to add the connectors, but hate to think about removing undercoat to do so... I'm pretty sure I know the answer here...


Daily:
'19 Frontier 4WD
Belle:
'67 Belvedere Convertible, 318/727 in Go ManGo!
Other:
'64 C10, 283/3 on the tree
Re: conv. sub frame [Re: closer9] #278334
04/10/09 01:59 AM
04/10/09 01:59 AM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,277
West Coast, USA
jbc426 Offline
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Yes they do, however you only need to strip away the undercoating and inch or two wider than the subframe connector width prior to welding them in. You can then re-under coat the area to match using Resto Rick's undercoating mixture and a Shultz gun with very good results. I did that on my 1970, although I had to remove quite a bit more of the original undercoating, because it had gotten a little oil soaked and damaged throughout the years.


1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
Re: conv. sub frame [Re: jbc426] #278335
04/10/09 09:33 AM
04/10/09 09:33 AM
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,190
SW MO
closer9 Offline
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Quote:

Yes they do, however you only need to strip away the undercoating and inch or two wider than the subframe connector width prior to welding them in. You can then re-under coat the area to match using Resto Rick's undercoating mixture and a Shultz gun with very good results. I did that on my 1970, although I had to remove quite a bit more of the original undercoating, because it had gotten a little oil soaked and damaged throughout the years.





hmm... might not be too bad. Putty knife and a heat gun?


Daily:
'19 Frontier 4WD
Belle:
'67 Belvedere Convertible, 318/727 in Go ManGo!
Other:
'64 C10, 283/3 on the tree
Re: conv. sub frame [Re: closer9] #278336
04/11/09 03:08 AM
04/11/09 03:08 AM
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,277
West Coast, USA
jbc426 Offline
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That's what I used. I let the heat gun do it's work and the stuff scraped right off. I wiped the remainder off with laquer thinner. Once that had all dried well, I hit the area with a Norton 60 grit-layered sanding disc on my angle grinder. I also sanded the floor to remove anything that might contaminate the welds from above.


1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)






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