What's the best way to double-check engine to transmission alignment? Never had to do it before. I'm hoping it was crap luck, but I cracked the hub on my torque converter at the track this weekend. I did have the transmission out during the off season to put a CSR shield on it, but everything went right back together with no binding. Torque converter spun freely and bolted right back up to the flexplate. The converter is on it's way to PTC to get get checked out and possibly get a new hub and refresh. I really don't want this to happen again, so I want to double-check and verify everything's good.

Not the best picture, but here's what I did. The dial indicator is mounted to the crank and indicates off of the o.d. of the trans oil pump register.

What kinda readings did you get?

If you are running a 904 take this time to change the snout over to the later model A500 style. A&A sells pump gears to make the switch easy. If this was a 727 that is an unusual failure, very common for 904s though.

I don't recall exactly as it was a few years ago....around .017-.019? too low (the trans.) and it was also a little off left to right. I checked it because the block was line honed, but being off left to right says I should have been and will be checking all from now on if possible.

It's from a 727 small block. Converter was a TCI 8" that was rebuilt by PTC a few years ago. Flexplate is a B&M. It's kinda hard to see in the picture I posted, but the weld is cracked as well. I did pressure check the converter and it is pushing air out.

Wow I can't say I have ever heard of that happening to a 727

What offset dowels did you use Harry? Or did you have them made?

http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/dowels.html These are what I used....they are pretty easy to adjust.

There are some Lakewood ones that are less expensive and almost fit (.006 larger diameter), but don't waste your money on them. I did and thought I could do a little sanding to get them to fit....I did get them to fit in the block, but there really isn't any way to rotate them to get your alignment without ruining them.

I ended up getting some from summit .014 and .021" and I filed the engine side to fit but still move and you have an allen socket to move the offset even with the trans on.I get summit delivered in 1 day so it made it easy/fast but rob may be the choice for most people.

I had a crack form starting at the bottom corner of the input sleeve notches on my '68 trans. Sent it in and they welded in a new one with a smoother radius at that location.

Great tips on measuring the run-out using the transmission case, but be sure to ensure the case is square to the block/crank flange too. A lot of people overlook this step, but my '70 manual trans car was off enough to use shims to get it squared up.