Good question. I have the Mopar gasket on the 727 in my Duster and it has also always weeped a little bit. There is always a drip or two under the car. It doesn't actually leak, it just weeps enough to coat the surface of the pan then once in awhile a drop forms and lands on the floor. About one drop a day. I'm going to try a different gasket too. I'm thinking I'll try the Moroso soft rubber one to see if it seals better with the Moroso aluminum pan that I have.

I've been using the mopar black (reuseable?, but I never re-use them) gaskets for years, and for years they always weep, drip, or leak. what's a better gasket that will keep things dry?

All gasket styles require a flat pan flange.

I’m betting if you take the pan off and lay it on a flat surface you will see out of flat areas, belled bolt hole, etc.

The reason we went from cork to the reuseable was the cork weeped after being in service because it lost compression from shrinkage.

All our warranty pretty much dried up after doing that, pun intended.

are the bolt holes for the pan blind holes? I haven't had either trans pan off in a couple of years and don't remember.

Some are blind and some are not.

Someone else said they were never lucky using this gasket.
Sealing the pan up is not about luck, it’s about being thorough.

It’s been a while since I ran a study at work, but if I recall the pan flange has to be flat within .013”. That means you cannot insert a .013” feeler gauge between the flange and flat surface.

The most common issue with stamped steel pans is when someone has “bell mouthed” the bolt hole areas in the pan.
That usually happens when someone tried to seal the pan up by over torquing the bolts when using a cork or composite gasket.

Again, you can’t over tighten the reuseable gasket because the plastic backbone prevents that. You will strip the case bolts before that happens.

The black reuseable Mopar production gasket has torque limiters built in, you can’t overtighten the gasket.
If you truly have a wet pan gasket you either have a leak from something/somewhere else or your pan is not perfectly flat.

Don’t use any sealer on this gasket, it’s not needed.

Some are blind and some are not.

Someone else said they were never lucky using this gasket.
Sealing the pan up is not about luck, it’s about being thorough.

It’s been a while since I ran a study at work, but if I recall the pan flange has to be flat within .013”. That means you cannot insert a .013” feeler gauge between the flange and flat surface.

The most common issue with stamped steel pans is when someone has “bell mouthed” the bolt hole areas in the pan.
That usually happens when someone tried to seal the pan up by over torquing the bolts when using a cork or composite gasket.

Again, you can’t over tighten the reuseable gasket because the plastic backbone prevents that. You will strip the case bolts before that happens.