Re: 1956 CORONET
[Re: Old Ray]
#2776683
05/21/20 09:57 AM
05/21/20 09:57 AM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,492 north of coder
moparx
"Butt Crack Bob"
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"Butt Crack Bob"
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 19,492
north of coder
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rear leaf springs. if it were me doing as you want to do, i would ditch the front suspension and original steering box, then put a straight axle in it's place. a big block would be easy to install then. we need to see pics !
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Re: 1956 CORONET
[Re: A/MP]
#2776727
05/21/20 12:44 PM
05/21/20 12:44 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,899 Rio Linda, CA
John_Kunkel
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 25,899
Rio Linda, CA
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Sure, depends on your fabrication skills. The rear leaf springs are what's referred to as "splayed", the front mounting points are closer together than the rears.
The INTERNET, the MISinformation superhighway
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Re: 1956 CORONET
[Re: John_Kunkel]
#2776845
05/21/20 08:11 PM
05/21/20 08:11 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,605 Freeport IL USA
poorboy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 10,605
Freeport IL USA
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There is enough space under the hood for an RB. You may loose the inner fenders, and probably the fresh air for the heat, neither of which you probably would have left intact anyway.
The front suspension, if its in good shape will support the RB's weight. It is a decent suspension that parts are available for at many auto parts stores and online. Improvements can be had by moving the shock from the upper control arm to a bracket on the frame, kits are available to do this, but its pretty simple. You definitely want a disc brake conversion, several kits are offered. Its cheaper to do a disc brake conversion then it is to rebuild the original brakes, which would be inadequate for a RB powered car.
The rear suspension, if in good condition will support an RB, but I would swap out the usually open rear axle for something a little bigger, with a sure grip, and much more modern,. The original brakes and rear drum setup is poor design, and the axle flanges are keyed to the axles and probably wouldn't hold up to an RB with traction, which the open diff probably couldn't supply anyway.
You want to make sure the car your looking at has a good frame. They tend to rust out in the lower part of the front cross member, and on the frame rails in front of and behind the leaf spring mounting points. If the frame is not rusted beyond repair and is not bent, they are plenty tough enough for an RB.
It will be required for you to post up pictures and keep us informed about your build. Gene
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Re: 1956 CORONET
[Re: poorboy]
#2777028
05/22/20 01:47 PM
05/22/20 01:47 PM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 34,933 S.E. South Dakota !
bigdad
Still Posting A Lot
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Still Posting A Lot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 34,933
S.E. South Dakota !
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They stuffed big old Hemi's in similar cars , should fall into place ( lol)
The lips of fools bring them strife, and their mouths invite a beating.Proverbs 18:6
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Re: 1956 CORONET
[Re: John_Kunkel]
#2783654
06/10/20 12:58 PM
06/10/20 12:58 PM
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,493 Buckeye Lake
56_Royal_Lancer
My Mouth Is Shut II
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My Mouth Is Shut II
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,493
Buckeye Lake
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Yep, it sure will fit and it can be made to clear the heater box, steering box, etc. Pretty much everything has to be fabbed but I've done it and took a lot of pictures. You can notch the cross member to get a 727 to fit w/o butchering the transmission hump, too. I used a early-B 8 3/4 by moving the spring perches and it was perfect - even gave me a bit more room from the tire to the wheelwell lip. Like I say, I've got a lot of pictures of my fabbed motor mounts, etc if you get into this. Biggest bogie for me was managing the heat under the hood but eventually I got there. Good luck, and enjoy the questions you will get: :"That ain't no Chivvy, what year Ford is that?"
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