has spark, has fuel.

new timing chain.
when I installed it, I made sure dots on gears are lined up: top gear at 6 o'clock, bottom gear at 12 o'clock.
also, right now, rotor points at #1 cylinder when 1st cylinder is TDC on compression stroke.

With the dots pointing at each other (crank at 12 and cam at 6) you are on #6 firing NOT #1...

When the dots align like you had them the motor is starting on the first stroke which is the overlap stroke when the exhaust valve is closing and the intake valve is opening, the distributor rotor will be, and should be, pointing at #6 spark plug wire

If that is what's happening just lift the distributor up enough to allow you to turn the rotor 180* so it points to the #1 terminal and set it back down. After you tighten the distributor down try and start the engine.

Copy and paste from above..... The person that started this help string has said several times

I quote " also, right now, rotor points at #1 cylinder when 1st cylinder is TDC on compression stroke".

no where did he say when he had the dots aligned the rotor was at number 1......

A lot of people saying a lot of stuff is most likely confusing this guy and he is already asking for assistance....

What we know is 1 cylinder has 50 lbs of compression and the engine will not start.
We do not know if his #2 cylinder is on the same bank as #1 or not, so we are not even sure what cylinder is what, do we?

We also know he says he has spark and fuel. From the latest few posts we have a new timing chain assembly and the Distributor is correctly installed.

I asked if all the rockers were moving to see if he has a wiped cam or lifter before he removes the heads. His problem is heads or cam/lifters/pushrods for the low compression.

As far as the no start I am beginning to think the plugs are fuel fouled and the time is low, or his cylinder arrangement is 1234 on 1 side and 5678 on the other...if so he has a blown head gasket?


MOFWIW

Allen

this is getting me confused, compression test on #7 states cant get to it but then you state #7 plug soaked..so you got the plug out but not the tester in?did you try with new dry plugs?

What did the old chain look like? Had it jumped? How far? Check compression with new chain installed? Pull valve covers and check for loose rockers?

IF the compression tests are right (need to leak it) it likely lost the chain and bent pushrods if your lucky. Valves if your not.

Leak it. If it leaks, get the valve covers off and find out why. Wouldn't worry about trying to make it run until I knew the engine was 100%.

thanks guys for offering help. all advice appreciated.

the old chain was VERY loose. I didn't check if it jumped tooth, I just went ahead and replaced it.

It had had back fire problems before when car was cold, but after it warmed up, it was running fine. Until one day, when it was still cold, a loud backfire, then died.

Was able to remove #7 spark plug, but couldn't insert the compression tube, so I didn't check it and just put new plug in.

Cylinder Order:
Bank One: 1357
Bank Two: 2468

Firing order: 18436572


I haven't got the chance to pull valve covers yet, but I will.

I hope some of this info is usable.
I know think you have bent pushrds on the 1 cylinder. For your sake anyway...
Good luck

I finally went under the car, after some wrestling, was able to test the compress on #7.

Compression is 90 psi.

But here is interesting part:

at first few cranks, the compression is 90, then it shot up to 150, when I press the "release" button to release the air from the compression tester, the gasoline was spewing out from it. so it is flooded with gas.

dump questions: 1. could this be the SOLE cause of the starting problem? 2. what the cause of this flooding issue? (only on this cylinder).

thanks

IF the compression is actually that bad, it's not the only problem. Fuel issue could be a faulty carb/float/needle & seat etc - or you just been pumping the pi$$ out of the gas pedal.

Pull all of the plugs and get the fuel out of it. Disable the ignition so there are NO sparks and bump the engine around, preferably by jumping the starter relay so the ignition is not on. Try to pinch a fuel line or stop the fuel from getting to the carb until you verify that is not where the issue is. Allow it to dry out. Get some oil in the cylinders, either in the plug holes or fog some JB80 or something down the carb. Throw the plugs in the trash, they're done.

Still need to get the valve covers off. Bar or bump the engine around as if you were adjusting valves and look for loose rockers.

Be careful - with all that fuel there is a fire hazard.

What carb do you have on the engine? If it is a holley, with all that back firing, you blew out the power valve. I am not sure about the other brands but I've had some holleys that this has happened to. It sounds like your issue is the carb flooding the engine. Again, if holley, will need a new power valve and probably needs rebuilding, since it backfires when cold. There are options for power valves that won't blow out if you get a backfire, look for them.

In the meantime, take all the plugs out and let the cylinders dry out. How is the oil? Does it smell like gas? If so, that will need changing before you do anything else. You can run the risk of destroying bearings and everything they touch. Once you've got the gas out of it, do you have a different carb you can try?

CM beat me to the bunch about the carb....

you're not gonna have consistent compression readings if fuel has washed down the cylinders either, it takes away from the sealing of your rings.

today, removed valve covers, everything looks PERFECT.

new discovery, Edelbrock 1406 carburetor chock plate is jam closed. probably this is the reason for the backfiring and won't start? How do I free it?

Thanks

More likely it was caused by the backfiring. Backfiring through the carb indicates the timing is off and you are firing cylinders with the intake valve open...Don't ask me how I know...

Very carefully, the shaft may be bent
try tapping gently on the choke plate between the primary and secondary divider, GENTLY

I know it is hard to tell by the naked eyes, but so far, it seems pushrods are straight, valves are opening and closing property. I know, only way to be sure is to take each rod out, I know, I know.

i tried to "gently" tap" on the plate, this thing does move one bit.

how can I free this damn thing?

did you hold the throttle open a bit when you tapped on the choke plate?

Try squirting some rust buster in between the shaft and the upper body and then try using a small crescent wrench on the tab on the end of the shaft that the choke linkage hooks to move the shaft gently, don't break it off
You may need to remove the carb. from the motor and try working on it on a bench, you may end up needing to heat the carb body around the shafts if it is corroded inside between the shaft and the aluminum top

Stephen, worse case just remove the choke plate screws and run with no choke...