Just thought I would post this in the hopes that it might save someone else the same headaches I have been through. I was not able to find many internet posts on the subject.

I have a 440-1 Indy Headed, MegaBlock, with TTI raised deck 2 1/8" headers, and a Quicktime bell housing in my 1966 Plymouth Belvedere. I recently broke the gears in my old school RobbMc starter. Prior to that I sheared the external bolts that clamp the starter together, and had Robb pin the starter in position for me. This led me to want a one and done solution. Buy once, cry once. Robb's new starters will not fit the Megablock, so I tried Meziere. Their starter was a work of art, it was both the most expensive and nicest starter I have ever seen. The challenge is that it would not fit the Megablock either, not even close. The clocking holes are opposite what it needed with the 2 1/8" TTI B Body headers. I would have just redrilled the holes, but it would not fit the pocket either. I measured that I would have to remove an additional .300" to get the clearance. There really isn't room in the car to do that with the engine in place, and I didn't feel that pulling the engine. I opted to have Robb rebuild my gearset and hope for the best.

Lesson learned... There are very few starters that clear the Megablock, with TTI headers. If you are building one, you will need an early version of the RobbMC starter, or you need to heavily modify the starter pocket, prior to assembling the engine and transmission.

When I called Meziere tech they were unsure if the starter would clear the block, I can tell you wither certainty that it will not, without serious modifications. They did allow me a full refund though. Great people to work with.

Hopefully this will help someone else out there.

Take care,
Bridger

Did you try a 50.00 Mopar mini starter. That’s all I’ve used for years.

I have the same block casting with Edelbrock Hemi heads and a 727 and recently fired it
out of the car/on the shop floor.

I used a brand new 2001 Dodge Ram (1500, 5.9) starter I had on the shelf.

I put the nut on the cable stud, cut the post flush with the nut, installed it...and it cleared the block but
not by much, maybe 1/16".

The one above is a good starter but uses one special spade terminal connector and one post.
I prefer the mid '90s model because it uses two posts for power instead.

I've had to do the same with a stock block because of the same issue.

Only way a Meziere starter will work is with custom made headers.
The starter is way too long.
Even with custom headers make sure you can slide it out afterwards.
Meziere starters have a tendency of loosening up since they are 2 piece.
If you have to replace it, make sure you can actually get it out afterwards. Nothing g worse than breaking a Meziere starter and you cant get it out because the headers have it sandwiched in.

7 years, 620+ passes on a stock Mopar mini. Mopar mega block with 15-1 and full 32 degrees timing during crank.
Doug

“World Products Mega Block”?

It’s either a World block....... or a Mega Block.

I don’t know if/how it matters if it’s a stock block, a Mega Block, or the World Block ...... as it relates to aftermarket starter fitment.

Thanks for the replies. Does anyone have a part number on the Mopar mini starter you are running? I will look into that as a backup for when the RobbMc goes. Everything is back together and running currently.

Also, Fast68, I very well could be mistaken but have been told that WP manufactured the Mopar Mega Blocks for a number of years. I purchased the block new and it was billed as a Mopar MegaBlock, but it definitely has a WP makers mark cast into it.

Take care.

We have a member with a blown yellow challenger that sold me my last one. I’ll try to remember what he goes by on here. They cost more but you can get one for a 1995 8 cylinder truck at Advance Auto too but they want a core.

I’m sure Zippy can answer who made the Mega Blocks.
I don’t think it had anything to do with World, but I could be wrong.

There are fundamental differences in the two blocks.
The full time top end oiling, the extra oil pump feed, and the cross bolted front cap of the World block are some of them.

Some of the easy ways to tell a “Mega Block” from a “World” block are the extra pump feed fitting on the front lower drivers side of the block, and the cross bolted front cap that are on the World block.
They also have core plugs on the from of the block, and the cylinders are bulged out around the cylinders for extra room for coolant.

The only reason I brought it up at all is that a “Mega Block” and a “World” block are not the same externally.
So it’s possible one of those blocks has more of a starter fitment issue than the other........ but I’m not clear on which block the OP is working with.

Mega blocks were from motor casting foundry. MCF shied marking. Siamese blocks have mopar cast on them full water block didn't.

Several sources, most of them before my time.
I've been told some are better than others!

The last megablock foundry I know of was motor castings, the last machining facility I know of was cummins recon.
I know the least about it because it was on it's way out when I got hired.

When the one folks call a world block came online in '08, Dalton Foundry (casting mark on the side
backwards D with an F) cast them and Royal Oak boring did the machining.
The only trace left of the machine shop is in a supplier code/long since forgotten.

Just look for the two freeze plugs in front.

I recently noticed...on the later "world" type, you can tell wedge from hemi by looking at the front only, due to one machined hole the hemi has (that the wedge doesn't). I'm not sure I should post anything about that, as it's pretty high level geek material. Nah, just look at the freeze plugs.

If it was not in the car already, I would suggest take a peek at the RobbMc to see if it's one of the starters with
plastic gears inside it.

We had a rockin' good time with those plastic gears on the Drag Pak program!

(I'm trying to be kind and somewhat humorous by making up my own version of events, by not repeating exactly what the engineer said. Because if I did that, this post would probably be deleted).

Some good oem numbers are:

17466, 1877560, 2095150, 2098500, 2785560, 2875560, 3250, 3255250, 3257, 3258, 3656575, 3656650, 3675560, 3755250, 3755900, 4091950, 4091975, 4106113, 4106114, 4111855, 4111860, 4145300, 4145359, 4145360, 4145568, 53005984

I got all these numbers by looking up a '94 ram 1500 starter online.

Brand new Denso from Rockauto is about 90 bucks.

Good luck.

Mopar Mini will work great as will Powermaster. I also have a Meziere 168 tooth starter and flexplate in the dragster

I prefer a genuine Denso re-man or new starter. I've installed plenty of them with ZERO issues.
https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/dnp-280-0144/make/dodge

Gus

Thanks for the education and information everyone! It looks like we have a winner winner. I crawled under the car best I could and peeked around the headers. It is definitely a Mopar Megablock.