Try it.. anything to make a trap

I called Kenny at Indy, and he told me to plumb my Accumulator to the top of the Filter adapter, and I did, and no more dry starts! I get oil to the passage ways, and Kenny told me it would reprime the pump. Works like a champ now.

Thanks all the help!

Mark

PS: Mike (Mr_P-Body) -- Randy's (Labratt) car now has a 605CI 1100HP all aluminum engine it now!

Sweet... the car is looking real good..Do I see a glimpse of a injector under there... glad you got your
problem squared away

Hi Mike,

Yes, Holley Dominator EFI MPFI. Works great now, since I went with a Dwayne Porter Solid Roller Cam with 115LSA and 260/268* at .050, and advanced 2*
I went from 4" of vacuum on the Carb Cam (110 LSA), and now idles at 16" of vacuum.

I also went with a Frank Lupo 4L80e Trans and his custom 10" lockup converter. It runs like a beast now!!!

Mark

You sound pumped!

So I went under the car to look at the oil lines and one of my oil lines that come from the back of the oil pump , I have dual lines, goes up and over the center link. Its a very tall slope, almost 90 degrees up. The front oil pump line is the typical 120 degree up over the top line.
Still having issues with oil pressure at startup but it does prime eventually.
My question is, is the vertical slope of that back line causing it to take long for the oil to get up and over the center link?
Thinking about dropping it under the center link.

You need a hump in both lines to act as a trap but you want it small so it will prime quick

There is a hump in both lines but the rear one is severely high. Up and over the center link.
Could this be the problem?

The rear oil pan 90* fitting is straight up 12 oclock.from the swinging pickup. Think this could be the
Problem?

How high does the rear line go up.. you want both line low enough but yet still have a trap.. the
area going up high needs to be reduced
EDIT
you also want the humps close to the pump.. I liked to put the hump the last thing in the line close
to the pump

So I just learned something today. And I just wanted to pass this along to anyone who might have this problem in the future.
1st of all, the problem was the oil pan 90* elbow out of the pan.
I had the oil line going up way high and the 90* fitting was pointed in the 12 o'clock straight up position.
I got under the car today and turned the 90* fitting to to 7 o'clock position and got the line under the center link instead of over it.
Turned the car on not only did it prime right up, I now have almost 20 psi more oil pressure.

Will double check if I lose prime tomorrow but I definitely see a huge difference from what I had to now. I'm pretty happy right now.

The extra oil pressure sounds a little odd. I'm wondering if the pickup inside the pan was tilted at an angle or something.

Sounds like you got it covered now.. good luck with it

It definitely changed for the better. I think that straight up fitting with the high oil line was causing the oil pump to work extra hard and the head pressure was causing the lower oil oressure.

Before the fix, I had 72 psi cold and now I have 88psi cold.
Going to start the car tomorrow morning to see if the prime still works.

Went out today to start the car and lost prime again.
Took a bit for oil pressure to get up to making pressure
Kept the rpms way down but this is not normal.
Once I get oil pressure, it's better than before at 82psi cold.
I dropped the one line down down.
I checked for tightness, changed out oil filter and changed oil.

Car sits and it loses oil pressure
Don't know where to go from here.
.

Take the pump off and inspect it for wear or damages to the scroll and rotor, also remove the bypass valve and spring and check to make sure the bypass vale moves freely in the pump cover, no damages or gunk holding it, same thing on the end of the bypass valve and the seat in the pump cover for damage or gunk holding it from seating correctly
Good luck, your making progress

Cab do you think a -12AN one way check valve would solve this problem?
No room to take the pump out and its brand new .

Do you really need 2 #12 feed lines. I just have 1#10 feed line on my hemi. Even after an oil & filter change my pressure comes right up. The 90* fitting on the pan is about 45*.

I had a guy over this week wanting to replace his Milidon single entry cast aluminum oil pump due to it not having any oil pressure after priming it. He had recently bought this 1972 duster with a 440 motor in it that use to be a "drag race car" that had not been started in several years. He was smart enough to prime it before trying to start it but it loss the prime the second time he tried to prime it again the next day and it wouldn't make oil pressure again using his 1/2 inch electric drill motor. I had one used one and one new one on the shelf, he ask me how much I wanted for it and I told him what ever price Summit sells them for or replace it with another new one. He took it home and looked up the Summit price ($339.95)and then decided to look closer at his, I had told him to look at the bypass valve and spring in the pump cover to make sure there was no debris or gunk holding it open.
It had a hunk of silicone holding it opened Once he clean that out his pump work good New motors make metal while breaking in and it is impossible to keep a new motor to clean while assembling them

Will a one way check valve at the back of the inlet of the oil pump solve this problem?
Getting the oil pump off will be impossible unless I pull the engine. Going to investigate the bypass valve today.

.