Ever engine I saw like that years ago either had any pennzoil or Quaker state muti grade oil used in it. They were full of wax. The straight weight quaker didn't seem to do it. And we used to put quart of kerosene in a hot engine and run it at idle for 5 minutes before every oil change. Never had an engine failure. I still have a can of product called motor flush that you ran right before oil change kinda the same thing.

when the "dollar" stores first came to be, [a FEW years ago. ] they had their store brand "re manufactured" oil at about half the cost of name brand stuff on their shelves.
my one cousin didn't have much luck with that stuff.
we gig him every now and then on that experience.
he says bad words when we do......

Re Kerosene:

I often use off the road red dye diesel fuel, its red look, smell, viscosity, and apparent performance is just like the popular "Motor Flush" Product, and costs 1/8 as much.

Thats clean compared to some Ive seen My 440 when i bought it and tore it down you could not see the rockers push rods cam valley etc.That was years ago.Took me like 4 bucks at the .25 cent car wash to get the gunk out.Used probally 6 cans of degreaser.I have seen worse at the shop when I was working also.Rocky

Going to see it alot more with the stop/start nonsense that comes on these new vehicles. That's what causes this issue: not getting up to full temperature and then shutting the poor thing off.

High parrafinic conventional base stock (think Pennzoil and Quaker State, but there were many others) combined with the popularity of 10w-40 which required gobs of viscosity Improvers were sludge manufacturing plants back in the day.

The situation is much better now, but certainly timely oil changes are still very much important!

Had a family friend that bought a used cargo 1985 Dodge Mini van with a 2.2L. It was a sludge maker. I did a few things to clean it up. I put one quart of Road Diesel in and ran till real warm. Crusty crud came out. I then did two oil changes but put a pint of diesel in the oil the first one and did low load diving for 2 miles. The second dump was still very black.

He had heard that a pint of diesel mixed in the gas was the same as Seafoam. Well if some was GOOD, more was BETTER. He pumped 1 gallon of diesel in with 10 gallons of gas. He made it 5 miles, I had to tow him home. Flushed out a bunch of dirty gas out of the gas tank.

Diesel is a very light weight lubricating oil. It does NOT have much cushioning for bearing. It is also a solvent.

back in the day, it was also common to pour in a quart of ATF some time before a scheduled oil change to help the clean out process.

Back in the day ? ... they had engine oil and ATF in the Flintstone mobiles ?

looks like that Magic Shell Chocolate you can put on Ice cream and it gets hard.

Yep, About the same.

What is the wisdom of moparts
on commercial engine oil detergent boosters or flushes ?

https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2...Y2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

https://www.amazon.com/Bars-Product...gent&qid=1583868154&sr=8-1-fkmr0

https://www.bardahl.com/products/oil-additives/engine-and-automatic-transmission-flushing-oil

Every oil change, for decades, normally "Motor Flush", current driver is at 499K.

https://www.acehardware.com/departm...i4ZS_5zd6oaAk7QEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Anyone remember Rislone ?

Kevin

how could you remember that product if you claim you weren't born then ?
and to answer your question, yes i do.

Years back I did what my old man did on all his cars.Add a quart of kerosene at change and run at idle for like 15 minutes.Then drain install plug pour in another 3 quarts.Drain refill with new oil.The old man had the 55 for like 10 years and it had well over 150K when he sold it.Ran like new.My 47 Plymoutyh and others were all super clean inside and never had engine problems.With new oils its really not needed if changed regular.I do mine evey 3K miles.Oh yeah quaker State I used till I rebuilt 1 440.Changed oil every 2K on it.After 6k miles pulled valve covers and it was getting sludge.Went to Kendall and Valvoline and Castrol.No more problems.RockyI

Been running 10-30 Rotella semi synthetic in the '05 Lesabre, and '97 Lesbre. They seem to be fine. IMGTX and I pulled the intake off the '97 a couple of months ago. I bought the car with 150K on it. I has 170K now in 14 months. No sludge. Not sure what the original owner had in it. Little old man had it from new. The counter balance shaft and the inside of the block look like a rust brown (iron block) when we pulled the intake to reseal it. I had a '93 Corolla that the original owner changed the oil every 2-3K and left one quart out and put in Duralube in it's place. I bought it at 142K switched to Rotella @240K I pulled the valve cover off for a new cam seal. The inside of the head looked brand new. I drove it another 20K and totaled it into a guy doing a U-turn on the interstate. My '05 I bought at 89K. It has 198K on it now. Neither one use oil. The Toyota didn't either.

My '72 Duster had 27K original miles on the 198 slant. Quaker State decal on the door jam. DragnMopars and I pulled the motor and there was the waxy goo in the bottom of the pan with the extra ingredient of tetraethyl lead in it. I was running 15-40 Valvoline diesel dinosaur oil in it. I'll switch to the Rotella eventually when it gets back on the road.

Have used this in the past. https://www.bardahl.com/

Yes, I have seen this with core engines that had Pennzoil put in them. Nasty crud galore!