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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED
#27478
04/26/07 06:29 PM
04/26/07 06:29 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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hey has anyone went directly from a final coat straight to polishing? after i wetsanded the crap outta the car i wound up doing a final thinner coat of paint because i didnt like how many small scratches were left over, and i have very little time to work on the car... im not really TOO concerned about orange peel, i just want this done already lol
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Re: Paint job on a budget!?
[Re: Marq]
#27479
04/26/07 08:34 PM
04/26/07 08:34 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Mohair roller?? I've been searching around the web for other sources of information (automotive and/or other industries) on painting a smooth, glossy finish with rollers. I've seen several mentions of Mohair Rollers instead of high density foam for achieving the smoothest and glossiest finish. The latest reference I found was interesting -- from a Sign Painting forum. One responder to the thread says: PS... I have found that 1/4" nap mohair rollers cause less bubbles than the foam rollers! He even talks about the technique of re-rollering to pop bubbles. http://www.letterhead.com/ubb-cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=030384;p=0 I'm curious if anyone here has heard of or tried a Mohair roller. I've searched around a little bit and it seems there are both natural and synthetic ones these days. Most mentions of them specifically call out that they are intended for "glosses, enamels, and industrial finishes..." They also say these are least likely to shed. -- Dan
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Re: HELP!
#27480
04/26/07 10:45 PM
04/26/07 10:45 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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okay, i tried to avoid wetsanding the final layer because of how the last layer leveled out pretty nicely.
i purchased some cheap polishing compound from Turtle. i used a cheap 4200rpm random orbital to apply, buff & polish. now i'm so upset. it has left the paint all hazy. and i can't buff the polishing compound out completely. my paint is all hazy. i've tried washing the area with carwash soap/wax twice and nothing. is there still a chance?
idk what to do. i'm thinking i should wetsand it now, or at add on another layer of paint, then wetsand with my 1500g or 2000g sandpaper, and then buff.
is the wetsanding part even necessary if the final layer levels out nicely? it's just that when i wetsand, it's so dull that i can't see how i can buff any shine out of it. maybe i need a more stronger/quality compound?
maybe i need a faster buffer/sander? i returned the [Edited by Moparts - Keep it clean] wal*mart buffer/sander and will be getting something along the lines of what Aussie Driver is using.
thanks for any help,
_taF
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Re: HELP!
#27481
04/26/07 11:22 PM
04/26/07 11:22 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
okay, i tried to avoid wetsanding the final layer because of how the last layer leveled out pretty nicely.
i purchased some cheap polishing compound from Turtle. i used a cheap 4200rpm random orbital to apply, buff & polish. now i'm so upset. it has left the paint all hazy....
_taF
How long after the last coat did you wait till you started polishing? sounds like the paint was still a little soft
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Re: HELP!
#27482
04/26/07 11:36 PM
04/26/07 11:36 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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you need to find a good foam pad to polish not a wool string pad. and dont use rubbing compound use swirl remover compound.
i had the same problem as you and back in the thread i finally read where not to use the wool pad. wetsand the car with 800 grit to get the orange peel out then with 100 grit to get rid of the 800 grit marks then 2000 grit paper to finish then polish, you will be amazed on the outcome. also go to walmart and get the blue microfiber towels, they are blue and are in a 3 pack rolled up they feel thick these won't put scratches in the paint. there are others and when you buy them you can wipe the paint dry and if they do scratch you can take it back and get the right ones.
use 3m 05725 foam polishing pad i got mine on ebay for 30.00 for 2 of them.
then get 3m 06064 swirl remover in a quart for 40.00 from the local bodyshop supply store or on ebay.
then a buffer like the porter cable or any 7 in buffer that has 2 speeds. i have a old sears buffer that is still kickin and ive buffed my car twice so far with great results but i keep finding waves in the paint so i strip and repaint 3 times already now i will sand and buff again and see what happends....
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Hello All
#27485
04/27/07 11:18 AM
04/27/07 11:18 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Well this topic has made it to at least one watercraft bum, me. I'm not 100% sure but I think I'm the first person to paint a Jetski with this method. The ski is a Yamaha Superjet, stand up craft that my daughter wanted me to build for her and paint red. I've read every post from both threads and thought this method was worth a shot and save me some cash. If anyone is worried about flexing the Rustoleum paint they can rest easy. A few of my parts bend 3" to 4" both directions, by hand with no cracking at all! The paint works just fine on this very flexible project. I have completed most parts of the ski and I'm working on the hull, above the waterline at this point. I tried this over primer on some parts and direct over others and I think the direct applied might be a little more deep scratch resistant. The bottom of the hull will be beached and draged in sand very often so I expect it to wear very fast. For this reason I kept the bottom of the hull the origional white color. I used the professional White on the bottom and professional Safety Red for the rest of the ski. I also used clear on all the parts below the waterline. The clear was very hard for me to get down smooth and I'm not sold on using it at all. The other parts that I completed (hood, nose piece and handlepole) were just buffed and waxed per the instructions and look way better IMO. A jetski like this gets knocked around pretty hard it will be launched off of waves, submerged, etc... This is one reason I wanted a cheap paint job. Another is I've paid for pro paint jobs and they also get trashed, it hurts more knowing how much cash I paid for that pro paint job. I will post some pics if any of you want to see my project. Many thanks to all of you who have helped me along and didn't even know it  . This board is full of the best bunch of folks and I'm glad that I stumbled across it. FYI, I'm proably the worst painter on the planet and have no patience for painting. I'm the type of guy who would spray more paint on the first coat because it didn't look good yet  Thanks again all!! (BIG THANKS TO 69CHARGERYEEHAA) Mike
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Hello All
#27486
04/27/07 12:51 PM
04/27/07 12:51 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Hello folks!
Gretings from Croatia!
Im a owner of white suzuki swift gti and after seeing this DIY painting i decide to take a tour with my car.I started just with one part and after 1 coat im more than hapy with the results specialy couse now i wont throw 1000 eur for "profesional" painting. After I complete everything Ill post images couse now I know it would be ok. Insted of Tremclad I use Hammerite(rust paint). Sry for my english and thank u all for this lovely paint idea!
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Re: HELP!
#27487
04/27/07 01:36 PM
04/27/07 01:36 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
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Quote:
Quote:
okay, i tried to avoid wetsanding the final layer because of how the last layer leveled out pretty nicely.
i purchased some cheap polishing compound from Turtle. i used a cheap 4200rpm random orbital to apply, buff & polish. now i'm so upset. it has left the paint all hazy....
_taF
How long after the last coat did you wait till you started polishing? sounds like the paint was still a little soft
over 2 weeks.
Quote:
you need to find a good foam pad to polish not a wool string pad. and dont use rubbing compound use swirl remover compound.
i had the same problem as you and back in the thread i finally read where not to use the wool pad. wetsand the car with 800 grit to get the orange peel out then with 100 grit to get rid of the 800 grit marks then 2000 grit paper to finish then polish, you will be amazed on the outcome. also go to walmart and get the blue microfiber towels, they are blue and are in a 3 pack rolled up they feel thick these won't put scratches in the paint. there are others and when you buy them you can wipe the paint dry and if they do scratch you can take it back and get the right ones.
use 3m 05725 foam polishing pad i got mine on ebay for 30.00 for 2 of them.
then get 3m 06064 swirl remover in a quart for 40.00 from the local bodyshop supply store or on ebay.
then a buffer like the porter cable or any 7 in buffer that has 2 speeds. i have a old sears buffer that is still kickin and ive buffed my car twice so far with great results but i keep finding waves in the paint so i strip and repaint 3 times already now i will sand and buff again and see what happends....
i stayed away from any buffing compound. i picked up a polishing compound.
i looked it up online and i guess you really do have to be a "professional" to get good results from it. here's one guy opinion.
Opinion on Turtle Polish
i'm going to pick up a better buffer/polisher off eBay.
how did you apply the polishing cream?
_taF
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Re: HELP!
#27488
04/27/07 04:27 PM
04/27/07 04:27 PM
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220
toronto canada
69chargeryeehaa
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220
toronto canada
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
okay, i tried to avoid wetsanding the final layer because of how the last layer leveled out pretty nicely.
i purchased some cheap polishing compound from Turtle. i used a cheap 4200rpm random orbital to apply, buff & polish. now i'm so upset. it has left the paint all hazy....
_taF
How long after the last coat did you wait till you started polishing? sounds like the paint was still a little soft
over 2 weeks.
Quote:
you need to find a good foam pad to polish not a wool string pad. and dont use rubbing compound use swirl remover compound.
i had the same problem as you and back in the thread i finally read where not to use the wool pad. wetsand the car with 800 grit to get the orange peel out then with 100 grit to get rid of the 800 grit marks then 2000 grit paper to finish then polish, you will be amazed on the outcome. also go to walmart and get the blue microfiber towels, they are blue and are in a 3 pack rolled up they feel thick these won't put scratches in the paint. there are others and when you buy them you can wipe the paint dry and if they do scratch you can take it back and get the right ones.
use 3m 05725 foam polishing pad i got mine on ebay for 30.00 for 2 of them.
then get 3m 06064 swirl remover in a quart for 40.00 from the local bodyshop supply store or on ebay.
then a buffer like the porter cable or any 7 in buffer that has 2 speeds. i have a old sears buffer that is still kickin and ive buffed my car twice so far with great results but i keep finding waves in the paint so i strip and repaint 3 times already now i will sand and buff again and see what happends....
i stayed away from any buffing compound. i picked up a polishing compound.
i looked it up online and i guess you really do have to be a "professional" to get good results from it. here's one guy opinion.
Opinion on Turtle Polish
i'm going to pick up a better buffer/polisher off eBay.
how did you apply the polishing cream?
_taF
i LOVE that turtle waxd polishing coumpound, it's almost idiot proof, you could buff for hours with no chance of going too far. What that guys says, if it's regarding the same stuff is very far away from what i expirenced. Actually just last week someone hit my wifes car in the back, kinda like a scuff mark from pulling out on a angle and just scraping the car not enough to go thru the paint but bad enough, it was about 6" wide and over 12" long, i saw it from a mile away. I got out the trusty $15 buffer, and some turtle wax polishing coumpound and my spray bottle with water in it and did the same proceedure on the charger, mind you this is a 2001 car with BC/CC. SO i put a bunch of coumpound on the terry cloth bonnet, rubbed it in with my finger, and gave it a few sprays of water from my spray bottle; the scuff mark was right by a body line too, on the back bumper cover. buffed it for 10 mins, and right when i'm done buffing i use a wet shammy and whipe off the polish. I was ready to have the rear bumper painted it looked that bad. after buffing it was about 99.9% gone, and actually that spot on the car was more shiny than the rest of the car!!!! i was left with only a few hairline scratches that you can't even see unless your litterelly 2" away from the paint. that's my expirence with the turtle wax polishing coumpound, i LOVE the stuff (and no i don't work for them)!!! plus have you tried their new turtle wax ICE??? don't even get me started on that stuff, let's just say i donated all my mothers/mequires to my mom!!!!  
ANTWON - lets see some pics. 
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Re: HELP!
[Re: 69chargeryeehaa]
#27489
04/27/07 05:46 PM
04/27/07 05:46 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
okay, i tried to avoid wetsanding the final layer because of how the last layer leveled out pretty nicely.
i purchased some cheap polishing compound from Turtle. i used a cheap 4200rpm random orbital to apply, buff & polish. now i'm so upset. it has left the paint all hazy....
_taF
How long after the last coat did you wait till you started polishing? sounds like the paint was still a little soft
over 2 weeks.
Quote:
you need to find a good foam pad to polish not a wool string pad. and dont use rubbing compound use swirl remover compound.
i had the same problem as you and back in the thread i finally read where not to use the wool pad. wetsand the car with 800 grit to get the orange peel out then with 100 grit to get rid of the 800 grit marks then 2000 grit paper to finish then polish, you will be amazed on the outcome. also go to walmart and get the blue microfiber towels, they are blue and are in a 3 pack rolled up they feel thick these won't put scratches in the paint. there are others and when you buy them you can wipe the paint dry and if they do scratch you can take it back and get the right ones.
use 3m 05725 foam polishing pad i got mine on ebay for 30.00 for 2 of them.
then get 3m 06064 swirl remover in a quart for 40.00 from the local bodyshop supply store or on ebay.
then a buffer like the porter cable or any 7 in buffer that has 2 speeds. i have a old sears buffer that is still kickin and ive buffed my car twice so far with great results but i keep finding waves in the paint so i strip and repaint 3 times already now i will sand and buff again and see what happends....
i stayed away from any buffing compound. i picked up a polishing compound.
i looked it up online and i guess you really do have to be a "professional" to get good results from it. here's one guy opinion.
Opinion on Turtle Polish
i'm going to pick up a better buffer/polisher off eBay.
how did you apply the polishing cream?
_taF
i LOVE that turtle waxd polishing coumpound, it's almost idiot proof, you could buff for hours with no chance of going too far. What that guys says, if it's regarding the same stuff is very far away from what i expirenced. Actually just last week someone hit my wifes car in the back, kinda like a scuff mark from pulling out on a angle and just scraping the car not enough to go thru the paint but bad enough, it was about 6" wide and over 12" long, i saw it from a mile away. I got out the trusty $15 buffer, and some turtle wax polishing coumpound and my spray bottle with water in it and did the same proceedure on the charger, mind you this is a 2001 car with BC/CC. SO i put a bunch of coumpound on the terry cloth bonnet, rubbed it in with my finger, and gave it a few sprays of water from my spray bottle; the scuff mark was right by a body line too, on the back bumper cover. buffed it for 10 mins, and right when i'm done buffing i use a wet shammy and whipe off the polish. I was ready to have the rear bumper painted it looked that bad. after buffing it was about 99.9% gone, and actually that spot on the car was more shiny than the rest of the car!!!! i was left with only a few hairline scratches that you can't even see unless your litterelly 2" away from the paint. that's my expirence with the turtle wax polishing coumpound, i LOVE the stuff (and no i don't work for them)!!! plus have you tried their new turtle wax ICE??? don't even get me started on that stuff, let's just say i donated all my mothers/mequires to my mom!!!!
ANTWON - lets see some pics.
idk what i was doing wrong. i washed the car first, then i rubbed the polishing compound in with a foam applicator. seriously, after a few secons, it dried up and became chalky.
i used a microfiber buffer thing to buf it out. it wouldn't come out. i was there for 10 minutes on one spot. i didn't know what to do.
i re-read the instructions and it said to apply with a wet cloth and to buff out before it dries. i damped my foam applicator and applied some of the polishing cream that way and tried it over again. same thing. within a few seconds of applying the polishing cream, it dried up very chalky. i couldn't buff it out.
this time, i applied the compound with the wet foam applicator from one hand and had the microfiber bonnet on the buffer and buffed it out within a split second after applying it. it was the only way to get it out.
even after doing that, it has left the paint all hazy. i washed that area twice with car soap and still can't get rid of the haziness. the wool polishing bonnet didn't work either.
should i wetsand that panel and buff again? or should i wetsand that panel, add another layer of paint, then wetsand and buff?
either way, i'm picking up a stronger buffer/polisher. the other piece of junk i had would always stop or drastically slow down as soon as it touched the body.
thanks,
_taF
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED
#27490
04/27/07 06:07 PM
04/27/07 06:07 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
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Quote:
hey has anyone went directly from a final coat straight to polishing? after i wetsanded the crap outta the car i wound up doing a final thinner coat of paint because i didnt like how many small scratches were left over, and i have very little time to work on the car... im not really TOO concerned about orange peel, i just want this done already lol
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Re: HELP!
#27491
04/27/07 06:38 PM
04/27/07 06:38 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Quote:
idk what i was doing wrong. i washed the car first, then i rubbed the polishing compound in with a foam applicator. seriously, after a few secons, it dried up and became chalky.
Were you doing this in the sun? If so, move to a shady spot or a garage...you never want to do this stuff in direct (hot) sun. I had a friend in high school that put Turtle Wax all over his (black) car under an August sun. He had to use steel wool to get it off  .
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED
#27492
04/28/07 04:26 AM
04/28/07 04:26 AM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
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Quote:
Quote:
hey has anyone went directly from a final coat straight to polishing? after i wetsanded the crap outta the car i wound up doing a final thinner coat of paint because i didnt like how many small scratches were left over, and i have very little time to work on the car... im not really TOO concerned about orange peel, i just want this done already lol
I did. Some areas I lightly hit with 2000 grit paper then polished, but most of it I just hit with polish. I’m ok with orange peel too. Heck, if a $40,000 Mercedes can have orange peel, then by God, so can my $2000 bug! I painted the top with Black Brightside. Originally the bottom half was painted with Rustoleum Regal Red and then Brightside Fire Red. Both reds were a little too much in the orange range for me so I switched to Pettit Burgundy Eastpoxy which offered a deeper red. I didn’t have any adhesion problems either. I just followed what the manufacturer recommended. (“For Painted Surfaces: If the old paint is in good, sound condition, sand it thoroughly smooth…; solvent clean to remove residue, then proceed with the first coat of Easypoxy.”)
The first four coats were diluted 10% with mineral spirits from Fine Paints of Europe (a concentrated formula; I believe it’s similar to Brightside thinner.) The initial coats were also painted with just a foam brush.
After smoothing down and preparing the surface for the final coats, I used the decades old technique shown by Stephen Hull in his coach painting site. I determined that coach paint is applied in thicker layers than we’re use to. Stephen mentions loading the brush by dipping it an inch into the paint. If it’s a 3” or 4” brush, that’s a LOT of paint! I also figured coach paint must have a slower drying time then our paints. It’s worked over a lot more we would do. I was able to slow down the drying time by diluting with mineral spirits (5%) and with FRESH Penetrol (30% for the Brightside and 40% with the Pettit.) Following Stephen’s instructions, I dipped my brush an inch into the paint. I covered a panel by painting left to right, then up and down, then left to right and then up and down again. What I like about this technique is that it spreads the material more evenly than a roller would (IMHO.) What I don’t like is that you wind up with fine brush streaks. Now brush marks are ok on furniture or boats, but seeing it on cars is just freaky. To be honest, I’d rather have orange peel…that I’m use to. Since I didn’t want the brush lines, I did a “reverse” tipping by using a clean roller. After the 2nd up/down application with a brush, I did an up/down application with the roller; I first pushed down a little harder then usual, to “squish” any remaining brush lines. I then rollered with increasingly lighter pressure to eliminate bubbles. If a small section still had bubbles, I’d lightly roller just that section.
I was also fortunate enough to have colder than normal weather (low 50s) when I painted. That helped slow down the drying time considerably. The thick application, slowed drying time and reverse tipping left me with a smooth surface and a HUGE amount of gloss. The orange peel was no more and even LESS than what I’ve seen on spray painted production cars. In some sections it was non-existent. I had a few dust bunnies. I just hit them with rubbing and polishing compound. Some areas also had a sand paper –like surface, but a light touch with 2000 grit, then rubbing compound and polish took care of this. I was happy with the results. I didn’t go the glass-smooth/ Porter-Cable polished route. I had neither the time nor the money to do so. As one poster put it, “I just want to be able to show off my car with pride at Wal-Mart.” In fact, most of my equipment was supplied by Wal-mart: Brushes, polishes, Coleman polisher, plastic cups to hold paint mixtures and vinyl gloves. The really beautiful thing about this technique is that after each paint application, you just THROW YER EQUIPMENT AWAY! What I didn’t throw away is hundreds and even thousands of dollars a paint shop would’ve charged me to apply their “REAL” paint job. Thanks to all you guys for making this possible!
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED
#27493
04/28/07 04:34 AM
04/28/07 04:34 AM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
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Here's a few more shots. She's still a work in progress. I have more dust bunnies, runs and missed spots to get to. But at least she's off to a good start. She use to be 8 different shades of red. Now I'm not ashamed to take her to Wal-Mart. Once again, thanks to all of you!
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED
[Re: Exit1965]
#27497
04/28/07 07:46 PM
04/28/07 07:46 PM
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220
toronto canada
69chargeryeehaa
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220
toronto canada
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Quote:
100k+ views
WOW   i should have setup some sort of royality program with moparts!!!
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