Quote:

---

Time for another Aussie update.



And that was after two passes of Poorboy's SSR3 (cutting compound) with a cutting pad. I'm not at the actual polishing stage yet. I'll post some pics of the hard top once I'm finished polishing it.

---

Quote:

---

Hey marq, I saw a couple pics of your mustang, looks real good.

About how large of an area should I paint before stopping and going over it again with the other two brushes? As in like, do a whole door, then go over it again go get rid of the bubbles, or should it be after every swipe of the roller? Or after every time the roller is out of paint??

---

Quote:

---

Anyone use a primer that did work?

---

Quote:

---

I don't see how this is possible. Every panel I've done with SSR 3 and the yellow cutting pad, it's had a hazy shine to it, just like the bottle said it would have. Am I not running the buffer on for long enough, or fast enough? Are you suppose to wipe off the left over material off the panel and what with?

I've gotten pretty decent results one most of the panels accept for the hood, I can't get it to shine worth a darn.

I've been using the following proceedure
ssr3 yellow wolfgange
ssr2.5 orange
ssr1 white
exp

---

Yep, that pic was after 2 passes of the SSR3 with a yellow cutting pad.

Are you using a rotary or an orbital buffer?
Here is a pic of the RO that I'm using,



When I use the SSR3, I spritz the pad, apply three coin sized dobs of polish and start it out on the slowest speed setting to work the polish in. Then once the polish has full coverage, I crank up the speed to max and keep polishing away until there is hardly any polish residue left. Then I wipe it down with a microfiber cloth and start on the next bit.

I'm planning on using a similar approach to yours but I'm going to try;
2 x SSR3 - yellow pad
2 x SSR2.5 - orange pad
1 x SSR2.5 - white pad
2 x SSR1 - white pad
2 x Pro-Polish - grey pad
3+ x EX-P - blue pad

I know that it's a lot of polishing, but I think of it as some quality time with power tools when I can't hear my wife....

Quote:

---

Uh-Oh!!! Im still reading through the old posts on this. Not supposed to be on message boards at work so I gotta read a little at a time.

Anyway I just got to the comments on how the RED colors fade really quickly. My car is gonna be Black and Red and the door jambs and such are already done. Im using "Sunrise Red" rustoleum.

They mentioned using a clear over the paint to resist fading. Has anyone found Quarts of good clear anywhere? I can only find Spray cans and defintiely would prefer to stick to rolling.

BTW, I attached a pic of my car before I started the rolling- Also I put the tunk, hood and doors back on before I started rolling.

---

Quote:

---

So with using interlux's primer, did you find your car just needed one coat of it and a sanding to smooth it out?

---

Yes... the stuff went on with amazing coverage.

It is thick enough to hide a lot of the surface imperfections and it self-levels...

One coat should be all you need... I would say that 1 coat of the Interlux primer is equal to at least four spray coats in thickness

.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

They mentioned using a clear over the paint to resist fading. Has anyone found Quarts of good clear anywhere? I can only find Spray cans and defintiely would prefer to stick to rolling.

---

No... I think the summary 'should be' that most paints when exposed to the sun will 'eventually' fade. I don't think the Tremclad/Rustoleum will fade any soon than any other paint.

And you must remember that Tremclad/Rustoleum is designed for use outdoors and exposed to the elements. So I suspect that it does have UV protectants or UV resistance built into it.

A clear coat is not going to resist fading UNLESS the clear coat contains Ultra Violet filtering ( which most of them do not ).

HOWEVER... you can lay a car polish on to your painted surface that does contain UV protection.

In the case of the Brightside paint, it DOES contain UV protection within the paint itself. So it should resist fading straight out of the can. HOWEVER even with the Brightside you can us a polish / wax that will contain UV protectants to double up your anti-fade protection.


.

Quote:

---

Any paint can fade, but some colors, like red, will fade quicker than others. If you're sure to keep up with regular waxing/polishing, especially in the months of the year when the sun is at it's strongest, your color should stay looking good for a long time. Eventually a good buffing is a good idea to take off the dull oxidized paint, or just roll on another layer.

---

It's true...Rustoleum or any other Alkyd paint will fade eventually if you don't do any up keep on it. Modern OEM finishes can sit outside for years untouched and still look good. These can't. Eventually it will oxidize. This paint technology dates back to the 1920s, and was used as a factory finish at least into the 1960s. Same thing happened to cars back then . If you keep a coat of wax on it, everything will be fine. Even if it does get oxidized really bad, it's still no big deal. Just polish it with a cleaner and wax it. I've brought back several OEM paint jobs from the dead that were oxidized so bad you could use them for a chalkboard, but they came out pretty nice. Just wax it several times a year and don't worry about it . Or, park it in the shade