Looking to upgrade my torsion bars. If I go with PST I can also buy new torsion bar adjusters for the same price of just torsion bars at Firm Feel. Any real difference between their products? I did read a thread here about PST having a clocking problem with their bars several years ago.

A lot of big-block A-bodies have been upgraded to the PST 1.03 bars which are quite reasonably priced.
They fixed the clocking problem several years ago. I just bought a set and had no problem installing them in my '72 Dart.
PST also gives a discount to members of FABO (and probably FBBO too, depending on what you drive)

I have a b body set of 1.03 bars never used but test installed and had problems.How can I check the clocking on mine?

IMO, unless you are running on the highbanks at Daytona, and expect to not run Baja or 250K street miles, there is not much difference in TB's.

Otherwise there is a big difference.

Don't forget to look at Sway-A-Way for torsion bars too.
They have 1 price for all bar-sizes, come with Tbar dust-boots and clips, and are still better priced than the FirmFeel ones.

I just received a pair of 1.08" bars for my Dodge Dart.

why not the MP ones ? they used to be reasoneable priced ( they used to be cheaper than the rest )

I know some T bars seller/manufacturer offered offset hex ends INTENTIONALLY for some specific purpouse... Aren't those what you mention about "the "clocking problem" ?

lay 'em on a flat surface.
Compare the relationship of the hex flats on one end of the the t-bar to the other end.
If they are 'clocked, the second bar will be symetrical or mirror to the first.

FF was the first company to provide large t-bars clocked for typical mopar weights, and custom clocking.
Factory t-bars are clocked.
MP t-bars were not, or were clocked 30* (point to flat); at least the ones I've seen.
PST and Just Suspension were not, but at least as of past few years, PST has clocked.

In my experience, a 1" bar in a typical factory weight car should have some clocking.
However, at least with an A_body, it will work without. The adjusters will have to be run very far in - depending on how close you want to be to stock ride height.
B-body I don't know since the bar is longer and the nose weight may be slightly higher.
Obviously lightened cars and other racing situations will change the results.

Here's a right and left, although one is a 1.09 and the other a 1.12 so it has less clocking.

Great info!TY sooo much!
ps:Mine are 1.220" and I got them 15yrs ago when I got my supercharger and Koleno iron block that added about 180# to my front weight of 69 Sport Satelite.I had to undo the lower ball joint and use a pipe wrench on the controle arm socket to turn it the last little bit to get it in and jacked it up to reconnect it to the ball joint just to see what it took and then removed it.