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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: pdqvsix]
#27178
03/22/07 10:33 AM
03/22/07 10:33 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Well, I have the roof of the galaxie pretty well under control. I have about 8 coats (had to really sand out some early mistake coats so its about 8 coats. There is definitely a learning curve. The front clip is going much easier.
I found that when the temp gets up to 80* and the roof maybe 10 degrees hotter in the sun, the paint seems to get tacky really quick. It seems most of my roller lines were when the dry roller was actually picking up drying paint and sort of raising or roughing the surface in some areas. It's hard to even see this happening paint gloss white on a roof but the roller lines are there. In cooler weather I haven't had this problem.
Anyone else found this to be the case?
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Exit1965]
#27180
03/22/07 01:38 PM
03/22/07 01:38 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 13
Ohio
69stanger
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Ohio
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HI everyone. I've been reading the entire thread over the past month. I came here from a thread on stangnet. I want to do this on my 69 mustang coupe once I finish all the body work and modifications. My car has been sitting in primer for more than a decade (I hate to admit it). I've wondered before about using industrial enamel from tractor supply or similar to paint my car. I've painted a car with a spray gun, my 81 2wd LUV custom truck and helped a friend spray his 72 chevelle so I'm familiar with painting cars. I had macco repair and paint my 79 mustang and was pretty ticked about the entire result to put it mildly. I could have done better blindfolded. More recently my DD, an 00 ZX2, was repaired and painted twice from two seperate accidents by ford dealers. The quality was less than some of the results seen on this thread. All that said, my 69 will be my DD when its finished and I will not hesitate to drive it when and where I want knowing I won't be spazzing over damaging a 5K paint job. Hats off to all you pioneers who dare to defy the critics! I'm looking for the same color as Chris on that GTO or the dark red on the new mustangs. I did check out Rustolem's High performance line industrial enamel (7400 system). They have a dark red (Fire Hydrant Red #1210402) and a clear (717402) for those who are interested. They come in gallons and are available through a couple of vendors at work. I'm on the fence about the clear. Rustoleum 7400 System Enamel I wanted to comment on a couple of things. 1 POR 15, I've used it on my son's jeep after welding up the floors. I sprayed over it with primer before it cured which is what they recommend. 2 Aluminum, remember to use zinc chromate primer over aluminum and you shouldn't have any adhesion issues with paint. Cobra and kit car forums may be helpful in that area.
Freedom Of Speed!
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: 69stanger]
#27181
03/22/07 04:56 PM
03/22/07 04:56 PM
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Anonymous
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Quote:
I've wondered before about using industrial enamel from tractor supply or similar to paint my car.
I'm experimenting with this right now...go back a few pages to see my initial results. I'm pretty impressed so far. I finished welding the floor board in my car last night and put a coat of Van Sickle primer over it...I'll be putting a coat of paint on it soon, and I'm going to paint another "test fender" with the left over paint. I'll be using the hardener again. I'll post pics when I do.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: 69stanger]
#27182
03/22/07 08:05 PM
03/22/07 08:05 PM
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,159
Cruising!
QuickDodge
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69stanger The industrial section of Rustoleum's website has technical data sheets for each product. The link to the data sheets is normally found near the bottom of each product description page. The technical data sheets give a LOT of infomation on the paint. One section describes the paints performance when tested to ASTM standards. It's easy to compare their various industrial paints. They have the hardness, flexability, abrasion resistance, impact resistance, and weathering characteristics. There's a BUNCH of good information on those sheets! (read the data sheet on the 3400 system  )
Last edited by QuickDodge; 03/22/07 08:08 PM.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#27183
03/22/07 08:12 PM
03/22/07 08:12 PM
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,159
Cruising!
QuickDodge
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ToolBox
Keep us posted on your results. I'm definitely interested.
Does the hardner require a faster rate of application?
Last edited by QuickDodge; 03/22/07 08:33 PM.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: QuickDodge]
#27185
03/22/07 10:35 PM
03/22/07 10:35 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 13
Ohio
69stanger
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Quote:
69stanger
The industrial section of Rustoleum's website has technical data sheets for each product. The link to the data sheets is normally found near the bottom of each product description page.
The technical data sheets give a LOT of infomation on the paint. One section describes the paints performance when tested to ASTM standards. It's easy to compare their various industrial paints. They have the hardness, flexability, abrasion resistance, impact resistance, and weathering characteristics. There's a BUNCH of good information on those sheets! (read the data sheet on the 3400 system )
I checked the data sheet for both the 3400 & the 7400 system. I like the color choices of the 7400 system better than the 3400 system. I know it runs around $35 a gallon retail at Grainger and probably the same at Fastenal and a couple other vendors. I can get it through one of them with the company discount and right now we have a very good relationship with Fastenal. I'm going to ask the rep to see if she can get me a color sample for the Fire Hydrant red.
Last edited by 69stanger; 03/22/07 10:49 PM.
Freedom Of Speed!
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: 69stanger]
#27186
03/22/07 11:59 PM
03/22/07 11:59 PM
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Alright, I'm completely new here, but I've read over the first 43 pages and 20 odd pages from this section. I am tired of reading, so I ask this question. Could we put all of the necessary procedures for painting with both Rustoleum/Trem. and Brightside into a seperate locked thread and sticky it? I'd like to know the process of painting with Brightside.
Is painting with Brightside like this?
1. Prep car
2. Thin Brightside to whatever viscosity.
3. Paint 2 coats
4. Wetsand with 1500 grit
5. Paint 2 more coats
6. Wetsand with 2k grit
7. Cut and polish
8.
9. Profit
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: 69stanger]
#27187
03/23/07 12:02 AM
03/23/07 12:02 AM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
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Joined: May 2006
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Quote:
I probably won't have time to paint miine till the end of summer or into the fall. I have to paint the house first. Priorities 
Oh... then you should refer to Charger's message thread on $50 house paint jobs...  Yup... he did the whole house for less than $50 with just Tremclad, some thinner and a couple of Mexican's with 4" rollers...
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#27188
03/23/07 12:12 AM
03/23/07 12:12 AM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
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Quote:
Alright, I'm completely new here, but I've read over the first 43 pages and 20 odd pages from this section. I am tired of reading, so I ask this question. Could we put all of the necessary procedures for painting with both Rustoleum/Trem. and Brightside into a seperate locked thread and sticky it? I'd like to know the process of painting with Brightside.
Is painting with Brightside like this?
1. Prep car
2. Thin Brightside to whatever viscosity.
3. Paint 2 coats
4. Wetsand with 1500 grit
5. Paint 2 more coats
6. Wetsand with 2k grit
7. Cut and polish
8.
9. Profit
That is basically the procedure. With the Brightside you don't have to cut it too much because it is fairly liguidy from the can. But by adding thinner you will increase your time to work with it and for it to self-level. We are only talking about a 10% cut of their recommended thinner at the most ( as compared to the higher amount of thinner needed to cut Tremclad/Rustoleum to get it to the same viscosity.
What you might find works with the Brightside is to try to lay the first two layers on 'straight from the can'. This will give you the best shot at getting maximum coverage. However, if you find that you just can't get your rolling technique down pat for a smooth surface or coating, then fall back to cutting the paint for subsequent layers.
Part of the game with Brightside will be your gut instinct. As you lay down your layers, you may get lucky and lay down two perfect layers... and you might go to a third layer prior to doing an initial surface sanding.
Just keep in mind that the whole point of those alternative layer sandings is to provide you with as smooth a subsurface as possible prior to adding the next layer/coat on.
The smoother the subsurface, the glossier and shinier the final product...
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Marq]
#27189
03/23/07 12:25 AM
03/23/07 12:25 AM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Quote:
Quote:
Alright, I'm completely new here, but I've read over the first 43 pages and 20 odd pages from this section. I am tired of reading, so I ask this question. Could we put all of the necessary procedures for painting with both Rustoleum/Trem. and Brightside into a seperate locked thread and sticky it? I'd like to know the process of painting with Brightside.
Is painting with Brightside like this?
1. Prep car
2. Thin Brightside to whatever viscosity.
3. Paint 2 coats
4. Wetsand with 1500 grit
5. Paint 2 more coats
6. Wetsand with 2k grit
7. Cut and polish
8.
9. Profit
That is basically the procedure. With the Brightside you don't have to cut it too much because it is fairly liguidy from the can. But by adding thinner you will increase your time to work with it and for it to self-level. We are only talking about a 10% cut of their recommended thinner at the most ( as compared to the higher amount of thinner needed to cut Tremclad/Rustoleum to get it to the same viscosity.
What you might find works with the Brightside is to try to lay the first two layers on 'straight from the can'. This will give you the best shot at getting maximum coverage. However, if you find that you just can't get your rolling technique down pat for a smooth surface or coating, then fall back to cutting the paint for subsequent layers.
Part of the game with Brightside will be your gut instinct. As you lay down your layers, you may get lucky and lay down two perfect layers... and you might go to a third layer prior to doing an initial surface sanding.
Just keep in mind that the whole point of those alternative layer sandings is to provide you with as smooth a subsurface as possible prior to adding the next layer/coat on.
The smoother the subsurface, the glossier and shinier the final product...
.
Would also be nice to see some side by side pics comparing results from Rustoleum to Brightside.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: Marq]
#27190
03/23/07 09:21 AM
03/23/07 09:21 AM
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220
toronto canada
69chargeryeehaa
OP
pro stock
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OP
pro stock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,220
toronto canada
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Quote:
Quote:
I probably won't have time to paint miine till the end of summer or into the fall. I have to paint the house first. Priorities
Oh... then you should refer to Charger's message thread on $50 house paint jobs... Yup... he did the whole house for less than $50 with just Tremclad, some thinner and a couple of Mexican's with 4" rollers...
.
You missed one thing, they used 12" rollers, it went much faster. 
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: QuickDodge]
#27192
03/23/07 01:36 PM
03/23/07 01:36 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
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Quote:
69stanger
...
The technical data sheets give a LOT of infomation on the paint. One section describes the paints performance when tested to ASTM standards. It's easy to compare their various industrial paints. They have the hardness, flexability, abrasion resistance, impact resistance, and weathering characteristics. There's a BUNCH of good information on those sheets! (read the data sheet on the 3400 system )
Can anyone who's familiar with these standards and tests give a short primer (pun intended) on what they mean?
For example:
What is the "pencil hardness" test? Is this like the fingernail scratch test folks write about here?
Any idea what the test conditions of accelerated weathering of 450 hours equates to in the real world?
Rustoleum 3400
System Tested
Primer: n/a
Topcoat: Rust-Oleum® Industrail Low VOC Enamel
CONICAL FLEXIBILITY
METHOD: ASTM D522
RESULT: >33%
CYCLICAL PROHESION
Rating 1-10, 10=best
METHOD: ASTM D5894, 3 cycles, 1,008 hours
RESULT: 10 per ASTM D714 for blistering
RESULT: 9 per ASTM D610 for rusting
IMPACT RESISTANCE (direct/reverse)
METHOD: ASTM D2794
RESULT: >160/>160 in.–lbs.
TABER ABRASION
METHOD: ASTM D4060, CS-17 wheels, 500 g. load, 1000 cycles
RESULT: 40 mg. loss
GLOSS (60°)
METHOD: ASTM D4587
RESULT: 89% (color–black)
ACCELERATED WEATHERING (% gloss retention)
METHOD: ASTM D4587, QUV type A bulb, 450 hours
RESULT: 97% (color-black)
For chemical and corrosion resistance, see the Rust-Oleum Industrial Brands Catalog (Form #206275).
Rustoleum 7400
PENCIL HARDNESS
METHOD: ASTM D3363
RESULT: 5B
CONICAL FLEXIBILITY
METHOD: ASTM D522
RESULT: 5B
GLOSS AT 60°
METHOD: ASTM D4587 (450 hours)
RESULT: 98 (color–black)
CYCLIC PROHESION
Rating 1-10, 10=best
METHOD: ASTM D5894 3 cycles, 1008 hours
RESULT: 10 ASTM D714 for blistering
RESULT: 9 ASTM D2610 for rusting
IMPACT RESISTANCE (direct)
METHOD: ASTM D-2794
RESULT: >160
ACCELERATED WEATHERING (% gloss retention)
METHOD:ASTM D4587, QUV Type A bulb, 450 hours
RESULT: 84% Gloss Retention (color-black)
TABER ABRASION
METHOD: ASTM D4060 CS17 wheels 500g load/1000 cycles
RESULT: 61.6 mg loss
For chemical and corrosion resistance see page 4 of the Rust-Oleum Industrial Brands Catalog Form #206275.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#27193
03/23/07 02:07 PM
03/23/07 02:07 PM
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 220
Portland, OR
shawge
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Posts: 220
Portland, OR
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This site has a good explanation of the ASTM tests http://www.paintlab.com/corrosion.htmlEdit: looks like not all of the tests are on that page, sorry about that. Here's the pencil test from a google search, it appears to be similar to the fingernail test. Film Hardness-Pencil Test – ASTM D3363 Test method ASTM D3363 covers a procedure for rapid, inexpensive determination of the film hardness of an organic coating on a substrate in terms of drawing leads or pencil leads of known hardness. A coated panel is placed on a firm, horizontal surface. The pencil is held firmly against the film at a 45º angle (point away from the operator) and pushed away from the operator in a 0.256-in. (6.5-mm) stroke. The process is started with the hardest pencil and continued down the scale of hardness to either of two end points; one, the pencil that will not cut into or gouge the film (pencil hardness), or two, the pencil that will not scratch the film (scratch hardness).
Last edited by shawge; 03/23/07 02:33 PM.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: QuickDodge]
#27194
03/23/07 05:02 PM
03/23/07 05:02 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
ToolBox
Keep us posted on your results. I'm definitely interested.
Does the hardner require a faster rate of application?
Not really. They suggest letting it "set up" for 1/2 an hour before you use it (I've always been in too big of a hurry to actually wait that long...it's more like 10 minutes for me). Pot time is supposed to be at least an hour IIRC. If you can't get it down in that amount of time, make smaller batches, and make more than one. After it's applied, it will dry to where it's not tacky after a few hours. I left some in a plastic tray that I had left over, and it turned into a solid 1/4" thick chunk in about a week and a half LOL. I peeled it out of the pan...it was solid, but still very flexible. Good qualities for paint  . I can't imagine leaving just straight paint that thick and having it dry in a month...I'll bet it would just form a skin, and still be liquid inside. That's one nice thing about the hardener...it cures the paint anaerobically.
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#27195
03/24/07 03:51 PM
03/24/07 03:51 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 13
Ohio
69stanger
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Ohio
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I wanted to comment on a couple of things. There's been some concern on paint curing and hardness. I was out in the garage a little while ago and I had a thought. I rebuilt my bicycle a year and a half ago. I painted it with rustolem spray bomb. I started reassembling it about a week after painting. When bolting on the front derailer and the seat tube clamp the paint was still soft enough to scrunch up a little. I'm not sure when the paint fully cured but now it is very hard and durable.
Earlier today I went to the Dayton auto show. As I was looking around at all the new cars & trucks I was paying particular attention to paint and finish. Even these new high dollar vehicles have orange peel, enough that I pointed out to my wife on a new H2 Hummer and she commented how she could feel it. So I'm of the opinion the quality of finish achieved with this method is, at a minimum, equal to a factory finish.
Freedom Of Speed!
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
[Re: 69stanger]
#27196
03/24/07 08:29 PM
03/24/07 08:29 PM
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Anonymous
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I've been following this thread off and on for about a year now. I'd like to try this method, but a bad experience with Krylon (with polyurethane added) is causing me to hesitate. The Krylon sprayed on quite well and looked nice for a short time, but after just a few months it began to peel and yellow. I used Rustoleum primer,(couldn't find Krylon primer) which may have been part of my problem. I also think maybe the polyurethane may have added to my woes. Somebody please tell me that I screwed up on the Krylon and that this Rustoleum route will work. 
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Re: Paint job on a budget!? CONTINUED..page 44........
#27197
03/24/07 09:21 PM
03/24/07 09:21 PM
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 37
venice, ca
admactanium
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Quote:
I've been following this thread off and on for about a year now. I'd like to try this method, but a bad experience with Krylon (with polyurethane added) is causing me to hesitate. The Krylon sprayed on quite well and looked nice for a short time, but after just a few months it began to peel and yellow. I used Rustoleum primer,(couldn't find Krylon primer) which may have been part of my problem. I also think maybe the polyurethane may have added to my woes.
Somebody please tell me that I screwed up on the Krylon and that this Rustoleum route will work.
krylon doesn't work great for vehicles because it doesn't stand up to gasoline well at all. i use krylon on a gas tank of a motorcycle and the first time it got gas on it there was a huge streak of milky white clear coat. i haven't really gotten too far into the rustoleum thing but i'm assuming after all of this that rustoleum and brightside are at least resistant to gasoline.
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