Re: Losing power to coil “start” and “run”
[Re: Sniper]
#2717049
11/18/19 09:28 AM
11/18/19 09:28 AM
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lostdog
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the run circuit cuts off in start mode, that is normal.
You need to run another line from the start terminal to teh other side of the ballast to bypass it and put full battery voltage at the coil + in start only.
Then it will work Ok. I do understand I was missing that component. However, what’s happening is when I turn the key to start it cuts power so there is no power coming from the dash side. Using a test light I have power coming through the bulkhead at the “run” and “start” terminal. With the key in “start” position, the engine turns over just fine but using the test light it shows there is NO power through the bulkhead at either “run” or “start” terminals. Could I have missed something on the dash side ?
Last edited by lostdog; 11/18/19 09:31 AM.
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Re: Losing power to coil “start” and “run”
[Re: Sniper]
#2717178
11/18/19 01:47 PM
11/18/19 01:47 PM
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lostdog
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I do have a service manual with all the wiring diagrams and I have been over and over them bc I have had to rewrite the whole Car. My biggest problem is I get confused when I try to modify an electrical circuit. I’ll check out the link you sent, though.
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Re: Losing power to coil “start” and “run”
[Re: lostdog]
#2717216
11/18/19 03:28 PM
11/18/19 03:28 PM
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Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
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On the outside of the firewall at the “start” terminal in the bulkhead, I have a wire going to the “start” terminal on my starting solenoid.
In the “run” terminal on firewall side of the bulkhead , I have a wire going into the ballast resistor, Then out of the ballast resistor to + pole on the coil.
This is what’s happening ;
I have power to coil in “run” mode but when I roll the key forward to “start” it cuts power to the coil. It will turn over fine but it won’t fire. At this point I have no spark (1) The ST terminal on the ign switch goes out to the yellow wire (ign) terminal on the starter relay for cranking. (2) Seperately the brown wire (ign2) circuit goes from the ign switch out directly to the coil positive primary terminal for full voltage starting. (3) You have the blue wire (ign1) "run" circuit correct from the ign switch out to the upstream side of the ballast resistor for reduced voltage when running.
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Re: Losing power to coil “start” and “run”
[Re: stumpy]
#2717239
11/18/19 04:44 PM
11/18/19 04:44 PM
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Posts: 361 mississippi
lostdog
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is not a ground problem. Check power at 23 in the diagram with the key in the run position. Yes, this is the diagram I am using. I have a wire connected at position 22 “run” to the coil and position 23 “start” to the “s” terminal on my starter solenoid. But I now believe that’s wrong. Also, I have disconnected the wires I put at 22 and 23 and I am still getting the same result. Something before the bulkhead is killing power because lying under the dash, I have my test light in the 23 terminal on the inside of the car and when I roll the key to start I lose power.
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Re: Losing power to coil “start” and “run”
[Re: lostdog]
#2717248
11/18/19 05:25 PM
11/18/19 05:25 PM
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,645 Phila. Pa.
Mattax
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The wire I have going from the “start” terminal at the bulkhead to “s” on my starting solenoid is wrong because the wire I have coming from the bulkhead at the “start” terminal should go to the coil. Right ? Nyet! Sniper and Rapid Robert have both tried to explain that the Ignition 2 wiring is needed. I'll try to describe it differently. At the key switchKey in RUN: Connection is made from the feed in to the IGNITION 1 (RUN) and ACCESSORY circuits. Key in START. Connection is made from the feed to the STARTER relay, and IGNITION 2 circuits. The car needs the Ignition 2 wire. When the starter is cranking, battery voltage drops, so the resistor is bypassed. Schematically its like this::
Last edited by Mattax; 11/18/19 05:29 PM.
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Re: Losing power to coil “start” and “run”
[Re: Mattax]
#2717258
11/18/19 05:40 PM
11/18/19 05:40 PM
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Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,645 Phila. Pa.
Mattax
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'73 B-body wiring diagram indicated Ignition 2 wire goes from cavity 22 to the the ballast resistor. On the diagram its labeled J3. There it is crimped to the same terminal as wire (J3A) which goes to the coil positive.
If you still have the original, it could be used.
It should look something like this under the connector at the ballast - except on a '73 the diagram indicates both wires brown (J3 and J3A). On earlier cars, the wire to the coil is dark blue. I don't which year the color was changed.
Last edited by Mattax; 11/18/19 05:47 PM.
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Re: Losing power to coil “start” and “run”
[Re: Mattax]
#2717293
11/18/19 07:43 PM
11/18/19 07:43 PM
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Posts: 6,096 Valencia, España
NachoRT74
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- except on a '73 the diagram indicates both wires brown (J3 and J3A). On earlier cars, the wire to the coil is dark blue. I don't which year the color was changed. On 70 due the new brand new blue wire running to alt field. So coil wire between ballast and coil was matched to the brown coming from ign switch and save from get confused both blue wires
Last edited by NachoRT74; 11/18/19 07:44 PM.
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Re: Losing power to coil “start” and “run”
[Re: Mattax]
#2718974
11/24/19 07:11 PM
11/24/19 07:11 PM
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 361 mississippi
lostdog
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The wire I have going from the “start” terminal at the bulkhead to “s” on my starting solenoid is wrong because the wire I have coming from the bulkhead at the “start” terminal should go to the coil. Right ? Nyet! Sniper and Rapid Robert have both tried to explain that the Ignition 2 wiring is needed. I'll try to describe it differently. At the key switchKey in RUN: Connection is made from the feed in to the IGNITION 1 (RUN) and ACCESSORY circuits. Key in START. Connection is made from the feed to the STARTER relay, and IGNITION 2 circuits. The car needs the Ignition 2 wire. When the starter is cranking, battery voltage drops, so the resistor is bypassed. Schematically its like this:: Thank you! And everyone else who helped. I got it and it was as easy as you guys explained it I am easily confused and especially by myself.
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