looking at a rotating ass. that has a molar crank [bb 4.5oo] good or bad?

I haven't seen a kit with Molnar crank and rods, but I found my best deal on Molnar components with Don at 4seconds flat. I bought a set of Icons for$500. Not a bad piston for the price.

Used Molnar 4.250 crank and Rods in a Hemi a couple of yrs ago. They measured as good or better than the Callies setup in my Small Block stroker. Spoke to Molnar himself on the phone before ordering and after he explained his Qualiity Control measures I was impressed. We probably talked for 45 minutes, where do you find that type of care for customers in todays World. The Hemi is a beast.

I did the same. He gave me all the time I wanted. Great guy, great company.

Have a 4.25" in my street/strip car motor that made 713/709 hp/torque.

Had a discussion with Tony Bischoff on what to use in my new build for the race car. Went with the 4.5" Molnar crank and this motor will be 1000 hp. The Callies crank was a potential option for about 3x the money and delivery was questionable and it had to be bought through Barton so went with the Molnar. Tony is comfortable with the decision.

Been running a 4.5" Molnar crank in the 540 for a few years now. Probably 850 horse. So far so good. No complaints.

My experience as well. In my opinion one of the best companies in racing. Give Tom a call and tell him what you want to do. Have reciprocating weights and he will tell you what he has that will work for you. He does not care if you buy it from him or one of his dealers.

My experience with Tom was great. He is very helpful. The parts were near perfect on weight. Machining was good as well. Parts balanced without Mallory metal. 4.500crank, 7.100/2.200/.990 rods. Over 300 passes on the rods, nearly 200 on the crank without issue. 2222 bobweight. Max rpm 7500.
Doug

thanks everyone, sounds like iam barking up the right tree for a change

I missed typed. We run a 4.25 Molnar crank with a 4.5" bore in our 540. Still very happy with the Molnar crank. I believe at the time Molnar was the only (other than high dollar or custom) crank manufacturer that had true chevy width rod journals with RB mains

Molnar, Molnar, Molnar...

Is this a vote for Molnar or against? Being honest, I could read this either way.

Not a vote, a reminder on the proper spelling.

And, FWIW, I've heard only positive things about Molnar's products.

I like the Molnar stuff as long as he has it in stock. You have to use the correct main seal with the Molnar crank. If Molnar doesn't have any cranks in stock then my next choice is SCAT. SCAT typically wants a different rear main seal than Molnar but you have to inspect first since it isn't always the same. K1 also makes good cranks but they don't have a super big selection. Nice thing about K1 is that they are owned by the same folks who own JE so if you are a dealer you can sometimes bundle up a K1 crank and rods with JE pistons and get a good price.

Not sure I used the correct seal with mine, but I do get a single drip on the ground once in awhile. I used the Superformance seal. What is the correct seal for next time I do this?

What is the difference in the seal? Why would one crank use any different seal than another? Do you have seal part numbers?
Doug

Some cranks are knurled and some are smooth. It seems to vary.

So whats your choice of seals?
Doug

Lip or rope