Just a quick photo drop. The image is highly compressed so it may be fuzzy. Just wanted to show the kind of coverage I've gotten so far with 8 layers of rolled on paint with a dual light wetsanding after every other layer was applied.

I'm still planning on using Briteside for the final paint job, but at this stage of things my only goal was to get all of the bare metal covered and get the car uniform in color.

I'm not sure why people are still using Rustoleum. Brightside has a better shine. Yes, Brightside or other marine poly is more expensive but you can most likely buy all the paint you'll need, with some leftover, for under $100 (3 quarts at $30 each).

Phantasm - that's a good idea. That's what I ended up doing, but not by plan. Using rustoleum as a base layer will have benefits including needing to buy less Brightside (as long as you're using brightside of a similar color as the rustoleum of course), and getting to practice, sand down messed up spots, and practice some more. And perhaps better rust resistance. Plus rustoleum can be sprayed into engine compartments and door jambs where shine isn't a priority.

I'm finding when I'm rolling it on it will instantly look like orange peel and wont go on uniformly. Even after leaving it sit for a few minutes it doesn't seem to self-level fully. I've tried mixing it thinner and thicker and have found it doesn't roll on easily when thin, but creates more orange peel when thicker.

I've just applied my forth coat after wet sanding after the second coat, and I reckon another two coats and the cover will be even.

Does anyone have pictures of each stage? Like after the very first coat then after the 2nd coat etc.

I will take pics after I'm done paining the bonnet (hood to you guys) and fenders.

It should roll on easy when thin-- but you have to apply a thin coat of it. When I was painting with the Rustoleum, I would make medium thin mixture, but when wetting the roller I would push most of it out. Id push down hard on the tray to get most of the paint out. Then Id push down firmly on the car, and it would leave a thin coat and there was little if any orange peel.

How good does Rustoleum work over rust ?

mostly asking about spraying it on the underside ,
the frame rails , underside of the floors and inside of wheelwells ,

the metal is not rusted thru , just has some light surface rust , I will knock down the flacky stuff,

do I need to rough up the surface or does Rustoleum have some "bite" when its put on ?

I just think that covering the bottom will make the car look better and hopefully keep it from rusting further....

I planned on using a dark grey primer color Rustoleum.

Beaulieu

In Southern California

I did the insdie of my trucks bed with Rustoleum's rusty metal primer the brown color stuff, used it straight out of the can no thinning, goes on flat and level, I used both a roller and a foam brush can't tell which was done with one or the other.
I'd guess all primers would do the same thing.
I spent a hour or better with a wire wheel brushing the entire bed area, blew it out with air then wiped it down good before primer, I still want to roll on something like Herculiner and see how it holds up.

I painted an engine pulley which had some surface rust. The rusty areas took more paint to cover. I am not too worried about the pulley rusting through, but I am not sure what rust does underneath paint. Hopefully nothing but if I could I'd take off all the rust I reasonably could.

There are other marine polyurethanes out there, petit easypoxy for example. they list some browns, but youd have to check out a color card.

http://www.pettitpaint.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=45

Can anyone recommend a hardner of some type that would be compatable with Rustoleum?

I am ready to apply my last coat and want it to have maximum hardness. The prior coats did not provide the ability to keep from marring with a simple rub of my fingernail. And the prior coats have had ample time to dry since the last coat was put on in September.

Any suggestions/help would be appreciated.

I am not sure how that would work with a roller though. And its as toxic as any other paint hardener.

My buddy has a new Porter Cable 7336 (not refurbished and box still wrapped in plastic wire ties) for sale if anyone is interested. He said $95 shipped from Vacaville, CA.

Please delete if not appropriate for this forum. I didn't see a for sell section, and I thought this would benefit some of us rollers since Marq got such good results w/ this.

PM me if interested!

Exit1965

Thanks for the recommendation. That gives me something to look for.

Exit, thanks for the headsup on the hardener.

I got the spec sheet and it states:

"INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE:
Add full contents of this package to 1 gallon of oil-based enamel... Mix well initially and occasionally for the next 30 minutes to fully activate. Begin using after the 30 minute activation period has passed. Shelf life is 8 hours after which mixture should be discarded."

Their tech group says that it does not effect the durability of the paint, and they could not say how long the drying time would be reduced.

I wonder how the self-leveling characteristics of the Rustoleum Professional mixture would be affected. Has anyone ever used the Valspar Hardener (18-4625)?

Hello!

First - 69chargeryeehaa - thank you. This is the most compelling thread (because of your input) that I have ever read.

I know someone - family member - inside Sherwin Williams (a higher up) and I asked him specific questions about their paint. He does not know about this thread or why I asked about paint.


Q: Doing some research, like to know about Sherwin Williams paint - what do they make equivalent to "Rustoleum Pro" ?

A: Best product is called Rust Tough. Direct to Metal, excellent gloss level, impact resistance & rust protection. You can buy this from Wal-Mart. This is the same product we sell to our industrial customers. The aerosol uses a patented Krylon nozzle - called a FanSpray - that is fantastic!!
http://www.krylon.com/main/product_templ...product_details



Q: So it is equivalent to Rustoleum Pro or Rustoleum "Stops Rust" ?

A: Yes. Similar but better. Spray cans should match bulk (gallon cans).



Q: So Rust Tough is better than Rustoleum Pro ?

A: Yes. We compete against Rustoleum every day. I am very confident that Rust Tough will out-perform Rustoleum.




I thought this info might be of interest to reader's of this thread.

To see colors for Rust Tough Enamel click on Can this page: http://www.krylon.com/main/product_templ...product_details

I went by the local auto paint supplier today and picked up a pint of Synthetic Enamel Hardner - E297. Labeled under Duragloss Refinish Products.

This was what he had on the shelf at this time. Says he sells whatever his supplier sends him. They all work the same he said.

The ratio of hardner to paint is 1 to 8 also. Not much in the way of instructions. Just stir in slowly. I think he mentioned a working time of around 4 hours.

I have several coats of Rustoleum Professional on my fiberglass dune buggy. However, I could not achieve the hardness others have reported.

So I decided to give it one last coat with the hardner included. Hopefully this will work or I will be the one in one million who did not have success with this paint process.

Looking for any last tips before the final coat is applied and depending on the outcome, the cheering or crying begins.