We just had this 69 Hemi Bee e coated yesterday, thought I would share some pics.
Before

After

Where did you have it done?

what's an E-coat?

Where did you have it done? In the Indy area?

Give us some more facts. Cost, location, etc.. I'd like to do this to my GTX.

Thanks

Can we get some specifics on the hemi bee? That has to be in my top 3 all time favorite cars.

I hope you have better luck with your e-coating then me.
My doors are swelling out at the seam on the bottom because all the stripper was not neutralized correctly.
I was told that it was from electrolisis forming in there from the stripper growing in the seams.
These were a set of rust free doors that I had done.
I also had some spots on my fenders that was not covered with the e-coat because there was air bubbles trapped in the top corners. The fenders are doing fine after the process though and I just sprayed some undercoating in the bare spots.

David

Do you have any before pics you can post for me. I'd really appreciate it if you could. If so, thanks for responding and going out of your way for a cerified super bee nut

Here it is at Dragway 42 in Ohio in the late 70's!
We need to get better pictures of the pictures from the owner.
Brad

The Motor!

Does that car belong to Ron in MI? Lives about a 3 miles from me, but it's been away awhile.
KID

The EDP or E-coat process is done through Dorn Autocraft in New Castle, IN. You can email us at info@dornautocraft.com
Thanks, Brad
And Kid, yes it is Ron's!

Do you have to scuff the e-coat prior to priming or is there a certaing primer that will stick to it?

PPG claims you can paint over this without scuffing. It was baked for 45 minutes at 390-410 degrees. We always scuff!
How's it going Dave?

Different opinions on what to do with the e-coating, just like when buying a reproduction panel. Scuff it with Scotch Brite, scuff it with sandpaper, remove it on the outside, etc.
I assume you would scuff a little rougher if you were to apply a skim coat of filler for blocking.

Going good here, busy though.

I left a satellite of mine outside with the e-coated quarters... I epoxied the seams where I welded and a few spots. Well where the ecoat was, its all surface rust now, where the epoxy went over it, looks just like when sprayed.

I can't see spending what it probally cost to get it done... I'd rather did a car in epoxy to get it into the frame and such then spray the rest.

It may also depend on the coater! The place I use is the only place in North America that the Military will use because of their strict guidelines on the treating/cleaning processes. The Ecoat is PPG epoxy! I have seen panels ecoated by other companys that looked terrible! I personally wouldn't leave a primered car or part outside in the weather. We were told years ago by the PPG reps that epoxy IS porous and UV rays will break it down. It should be top coated if it is to be subjected to the elements of nature! Also any time you have two pieces of metal sandwiched together you are not going to get fluid between those panels unless there is a slight gap or seperation for air and fluid to flow. There will always be some form of rust between pinchwelds and laps unless they are unfolded or cut apart and cleaned or there is enough gap for fluid and air to flow!
A gray scotchbrite or equivelant is all that is needed to lightly scuff the surface for the topcoat or filler/glaze to "bite".
Brad

yep,it has alot to do who your e-coater and what they use, for simple example take acheap aftermarket fender or a hood from China and a OEM part,you barely scuff the cheap fender with brown scoth pad and you see bare metal,because the e-coat is very thin,but e-coat on OEM part can be sanded with 180 grit for a while before metal will show

I went with a slightly different rout with my bee. Since I had it balsted (and it rained directly after that) I needed some quick protection for the metal. I sprayed the Must for Rust on it. This nuetralizes existing rust and leaves a very thin coat of protectant on the metal. This then will be sprayed over with an epoxy primer and since it is water based it is non toxic and I can get it in all the tine crevices and it does not have to be neutralized. Good stuff. Here a shot of the application before drying.