Hi Folks
Bbm 440-1 steel heads t&d rockers.
Race only car
Doing some general maintenance and noticed a lash cap (being used to correct a geometry issue) that was getting a groove worn in it from the roller tip. It’s the #2 ex. Valve. Roller tip looks perfect. Before I just replace it is there something I’m missing? I very thing else looks perfect
Thanks G

If I'm seeing the pics clearly, it looks like some serious valve float going on there. That's why I asked about the pics, because adding lash caps always makes the geometry worse with roller rocker. The engine doesn't know or care where the pattern is on the valve tip, but it certainly knows when the valvetrain is unstable. I'd investigate further, especially geometry, so you don't have damage more serious than just a lash cap. I hate to see stuff get busted up when it can be avoided.

There is a reason that only one cap looks like that, you need to identify it and fix it now
Do you remember if all the caps spun okay on the valve tips when you installed them? If so look elsewhere, if that one would not spin make sure the new one does

Thanks for the thoughtful response. I had not considered valve float.
Are you basing this on the pattern of the worn cap or the others?

Thanks for the pics and sharing your experience .
Looked at pics of the sweep pattern from when I put the t&d set up on. Not nearly as short as yours. I thought they were acceptable at the time but obviously not.
Thanks again.

Thanks for the pics and sharing your experience .
Looked at pics of the sweep pattern from when I put the t&d set up on. Not nearly as short as yours. I thought they were acceptable at the time but obviously not.
Thanks again.

I absolutely hate to beat a dead horse, but you are the perfect example of why Chrysler guys drive me nuts...and I say that in the most friendly manner I can type so please don't take this wrong.

I don't care what rockers you use, on what heads, big or small block I'd bet everything I have, and some stuff I don't have that I can walk through the pits at any mopar race and show you 85% of the engines have valve train issues. The number 1 clue is lash caps. The number 2 clue is you aren't using a kit from B3 racing engines or, you haven't milled the stands off and are using google offset shafts and stands.

If I don't see that, you have geometry issues. Do guys get away with it? Sure do. But it still doesn't make it correct.

Literally, every week on the web I see guys asking about lash caps and being told it's not the fix, and sure as hell someone comes along and tells them they've been using lash caps since before the council of Trent and there's nothing wrong with them (there isn't a thing wrong with lash caps I you arent using them to correct geometry...and what's sad is Harlan Sharp tells anyone who asks the lash cap is the fix for geometry and they are wrong) and not to worry because the sweep is centered.

You hope eventually when someone has an idea that is functional and economical it would catch on. Why I have to repeat myself virtually every week about contacting B3 and getting his help is beyond me. I've had people PM me and ask what kick back I get from diving business his way. The truth is I don't. I pay for his stuff. I use his stuff.

The moral of the story is you have caught an issue before it went into the toilet. Call Mike and let him help you. Ignore the people who tell you it's anything but geometry. I think you'll find Mike easy to deal with and his stuff works.

Fix your geometry and then don't worry about the valve train. As a side note, I've had guys call me and tell m after correcting geometry they had to lash the valve less often and the lash wasn't moving like it was before they fixed their geometry.

If it wasn't for this site, and Mike posting his stuff here several years ago, I wouldn't know about his stuff. Thankfully, he has the ability to ignore the nay sayers and just keeps moving forward.

Please keep us updated on what happens. Hopefully what you do will help someone else from having issues.

Yes, the pattern is pretty wide, but don't feel bad. You are going on the information you've been told in the past. I see that, and worse, frequently.

Something else that raises a red flag is the pushrod I see in the pic. You haven't given any cam or spring specs, but an inexpensive 5/16" welded ball pushrod is likely way too small/weak of a pushrod for your application. That can also cause some serious valvetrain instability. It becomes a pole vault for the rocker arm when the pushrod flexes excessively. You should probably have a 3/8" x .080" wall pushrod, minimum, but if you can share cam and spring specs, we can be more precise.

With a stout roller cam, I like to step up to a 7/16" pushrod like these from Smith Bros.

That was a push rod used for mock up. It has manton rods in it.

Not sure what this is all about. I thanked the gentlemen trying to help each time I replied and reading back through my post I don’t see where I once contradict or argued the advice offered.