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I am new and didnt intend on making a account but just reading but now I want to ask a question that I forget if I have seen the answer to or not because I have been reading this topic in chunks and not all at once I have forgotten some little details.

Anyways my question is:
Can you get the rustoleum tinted to any color you need when you buy it at a home depot or such? I want to do this way of painting but I am definitly doing an aquaish green paint job.

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Marq or anyone else w/ a 7424, does your 7424 make a crunching sound when on?

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I got a picture of the Floor Polisher. It's not a Hoover, it's a GE. The discs are made of 5/8" G2S (Good 2 Sides) plywood, and the holder snap on bracket is mounted with wood screws. That means a person could cut out a new pair of discs to mount foam or wool pads. They're 5" diameter.

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smeg - i live in mississauga!!! where you live now? as for the brush, DON'T USE IT!!!, trust me and use the rollers, even if you think it's too small it would be a much better finish in the end, the only time i use a brush is in a tight spot, i start with the brush and finish as much as i can with the roller, and you'd be supprised how well you get get virtually anywhere with a roller if you use both ends (rounded and flat). The way you describe the paint after it's dry is perfect, that's how it should feel, try to wetsand it, wet the pannel and paper(good to also soak the paper in water for at least 10 minutes before using it so it softens up. When you start wetsanding you'll see the water just wants to bead up, wetsand lightly at first until the water stops beading up, and until you get a smooth-flat surface. hope that helps.

v8mirage - the paint remains very flexable, case in point - i was driving my charger down a country road at night, and out jumped a deer, there was nothing i could do, i hit it at about 40mph, right on the front pass fender (which is fiberglass) and i watched it buckle up (flex) about 1 foot up as the deer came to a stop at about 9g's and died. Deer = dead, fender = perfect.

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Hi All,

Another newbie here who used to live in Mississauga and found out about this thread via a British car forum. I have a 1962 Triumph TR4 that has spent the last 28 years in a barn.

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Yummmmm... TR 4 I had a total of 5 TR4A's all with the IRS ( Independent Rear Suspension - not the Internal Revenue Service ).

My first advice on restoring an older TR4 is to go over that frame with a screwdriver and check it out from the front to the rear - paying particular attention to the spot in the box frame where it crosses in an X pattern, just in front of the differential. The fatal flaw of the TR4's and TR6's is that the box or channel frame usually blocked up the drainage holes in the bottom of the frame and the drainage holes on the side of the box/channel was too high up for water to drain out. So the box/channel frame would RUST OUT big time.

I only mention that... because of the first TR4A that I rebuilt. Foolishly I went for the body restoration first... and after putting in a couple hundred hours on the body... the frame cracked while I was driving it. I think back to all the work I put into that puppy, only to get screwed by the frame splitting arrrghhhh...

So double check the frame before going too deep into the cosmetic aspects of your TR4.

That having been said... the tackiness of the paint problem sounds like the initial thicker layers ABSORBED the mineral spirits that you later added to the lateer coats. At this point you can either let it sit and hope that it will evaporate out over time and harden. If it stays soft... I would be tempted to take a heavily soaked towel ( with mineral spirits ) and try to rub off as much of the paint as you can ( in order to try to remove as much of those thicker layers as you can ( basically to start over on that panel ).

And I would definitely stick with the 4" white high density foam rollers and leave the foam brushes only for popping bubbles. I know those panels like the back of my hand and I know it can be done.

Good luck on your TR4.

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