There is no new technology in the Firecore, just new packaging. It still works the same as the MoPar ECU setup.

Ask anybody that actually worked in garages and service stations or operated a towing service in the 70's about how so many vehicles would be no-starts or quit on the highway after a good rain, and how those issues just about disappeared with electronic ignitions. Buick and AMC V8's were the worst with their front mount windowed cap dist's, with inline 6's with their low mounted dist's close behind. While most people here are "car guys" that maintain their cars regularly, the masses don't, and damp weather showed how inferior the points ignitions with their low output coils and crappy secondary wires were.

While a stock compression, limited usage parade float may operate fine with a points (and coil) set-up, it's realistically hard to argue that an electronic ignition isn't superior overall, and that the modern multi spark ignition systems simply out perform the rest - if for no other reason than a points dist simply doesn't tolerate well the current draw that the heart of a good ignition - a hot coil - requires.

Points - 1900's tech

Mopar electronic - 1970's tech

Digital ECM - 2010's tech.

So obviously my vote is for a modern ignition box, or at least a Mopar unit, over a points system.

Sorry. We designed it for zero retard to 10k rpm. Upper and lower sealed roller bearings(instead of wearable bushings), Chrysler-style stronger magnetic pickup with reluctor provide a stronger signal at higher rpm's. We have the only designed conversion cap allowing a male post capability to the standard Mopar Electronic-style distibutors. The cnc machined 6061 T6 aluminum housing starts as hot forged unit. Hardly same old tech. Same idea, though, right about that. Use a magnet to move a spark from point a to point b.. Above post was referring to a RTR.. No box or ballast, just a coil and distributor.

All of the arguments pro and con reference points systems vs electronic boxes are valid. I suppose that it comes down to one's individual experiences. My experience over the past 50 years? I installed a Mopar electronic system on a 68 Road Runner in 1974, and it was running fine 15 years later when I sold it. A Mopar electronic kit installed on a 79 Cordoba has left me stranded with a dead box 4 times since 1984 according to my vehicle log; orange boxes, chrome boxes, seemed to make no difference. The Mopar box on my 70 Charger R/T has fizzled twice in 2 years, a NAPA replacement didn't last a month before it quit dead, and the spare I bought for emergencies wouldn't let the car rev over 4000 rpm. I've never had that lack of dependability in any point system I've ever run.

Not saying no improvements, but it's technology is not "modern" compared to the mopar setup.

yep, just moving a spark around.

So, I checked the mileage driving exactly the same route to and from work as before the conversion from points to Pertronix Ignitor III. 13.92 mpg! May I round that to 14 mpg? Previous typical mileage was between 11-12 mpg. The car NEVER, even on a totally highway mileage trip, bettered 13 mpg with the point ignition. That's a 21% improvement in mpg. I'm sold. The engine just plain pulls like it has more power compared to with the point ignition. As I mentioned, I did have a vacuum module leak discovered during the conversion. I can run a tank with the vacuum advance unhooked and unplugged for understanding the contribution of that fail correction to the performance.

Updating this post now at 16,000 miles after installing Pertronix Ignitor III and Flamethrower coil. If you've upgraded a stock Poly 318 A-engine points distributor with the Ignitor III, it requires a ground strap to pass through the 2-wire grommet hole. If not enough slack is left in the flat, braided steel ground strap, the vacuum advance works pulling counterclockwise since the rotation on a small block distributor is clockwise. If not enough slack, the braided cable finally fatigues after being pulled on by the vacuum advance. FAIL. Visually, the cable looks "OK". However, the frays of ground strap are at rest and both ends together after breakage appear to be OK. Try pushing the strap around sideways with the blade of a small flat screwdriver to reveal either a severed strap or it's OK. Replace ground strap as required. No I don't work for Pertronix. I just found that I was a big block guy trying to work on a Poly 318 and had to learn the hard way. 16,000 miles on an Ignitor III module and Flamethrower coil now in a 63 Fury More Door. No problems after the ground strap repair after 6,000 miles due to my not knowing what I was doing. Now averaging around 14.5 mpg on freeway 36 round-trip miles to work daily.

watch any harness from evans. last ones (engine harness and wiper harness) i got from him had bad crimps all over the damn things. found a post here at the time that quite a few people had the same issues with his harnesses..

Yeah, the engine harness I got from Evans almost 20 yrs ago had this problem too. I needed to re-route a wire (not his fault, mine) and proceeded to unwrap it and found a major junction not crimped. Would have been cute trying to troubleshoot that if it hadn't been found. I went ahead and unwrapped the whole harness to check everything and found one more that wasn't crimped.

When I ordered mine back then, I got the impression this was something Bill started doing when he retired.