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...I've spent the better part of 4 months reading, and re-reading, posts in this thread and have come to the conclusion that THE top dog, number 1, question that a person NEEDS to ask, and answer themselves - honestly - it seems BEFORE even starting to think proceeding with this project today while thinking only about tomorrow seems to be...

"Do I really have the patience, along with the desire and drive to do what it actually takes to see this project through from start to finish?"

Once this answer has been reached, the next question before starting this project goes back to asking yet again...

"Do I really have the patience this kind of project demands?"

If a person can't be up front and honest with themselves from the start in answering these questions, it seems (from reading a number of the "undesired results" postings by a number of people) they wont get the end result they're seeking.

Maybe it's just my warped observations, but when reading back through posts where this system seems to be failing people, then placing the posts up against a time line laying the paint, number of coats, and cure times allowed before polishing... patience (IMHO) seems to be the biggest downfall each time.

Be that a lack of patience in proper surface prep, laying the paint on too thick or too soon before a prior coat, enough drying time before a wetsanding, or long enough cure time before starting the polishing steps.

I've read posts where a cure time has been put in a number of weeks, then being unhappy because the paint was too soft. Only to back-track postings and see that the time marks between the final coat applied, last wetsanding and the start of polish to wax were only a few days as apposed to a number of weeks needed for paint to cure by these same posting persons...

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...I find that after thinning the paint with mineral spirits the paint "flashes" or dries really quickly, and after a overnight period it is completely dry, unlike automotive paint which takes up to 6 months to fully "cure" so litterally the next day you can sand, buff, polish, and wax the paint.

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You may want to go back to this web page and refresh your memory on the originally suggested technique...

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Phosphoric acid may be used by direct application to rusted iron or steel tools or surfaces to convert iron(III) oxide (rust) to a water soluble phosphate compound. It is usually available as a greenish liquid, suitable for dipping (acid bath), but is more generally used as a component in a gel, commonly called Naval jelly. As a thick gel, it may be applied to sloping, vertical, or even overhead surfaces. Care must be taken to avoid acid burns of the skin and especially the eyes, but the residue is easily diluted with water. When sufficiently diluted it can even be nutritious to plant life, containing the essential nutrients phosphorus and iron. It is sometimes sold under other names, such as "rust remover" or "rust killer". It should not be directly introduced into surface water such as creeks or into drains, however. After treatment, the reddish-brown iron oxide will be converted to a black iron phosphate compound coating that may be scrubbed off. Multiple applications may be required to remove all rust. The resultant black compound can provide further corrosion resistance (such protection is somewhat provided by the superficially similar Parkerizing and blued electrochemical conversion coating processes.) After application and removal of rust using phosphoric acid compounds, the metal should be oiled (if to be used bare, as in a tool) or appropriately painted, most durably by using a multiple coat process of primer, intermediate, and finish coats.

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I have read a lot, but not all of the posts on roller painting, but I have a question...since you can't paint metallic with this method, has anyone ever tried to shoot a little metallic in some clear over top a roller job? Seems to me that would be possible, but maybe it would look like it just layed on top the paint. What do you guys think???

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Don't forget you can use primer under the brightside. Mine has 20 coats of rustoleum under it hee hee

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I used Rust-bullet on my car on the panels that had surface rust. Apply it as directed, maybe with an extra coat, using a roller, then sand to give it a little tooth, and smooth it out, for the other paint to bite into and go. Its in one of the adds at the top and/or bottom of this page. I like it better than POR-15 cuz I can paint over it easier and doesn't have all the other steps that you need to do before applying. Plus I couldn't get the POR-15 to look right, I'm not sure why.

Gerbs

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• The full cure can take from only a couple days to a couple weeks depending how wet the coats are applied. It will get tougher and harder with time.

• Zero Rust accepts recoating easily and only needs a light scuff, if after a week. Zero Rust can be topcoated with urethane ONLY with extreme caution as lifting or wrinkling can occur because of their strong solvents. The film must be fully cured and hard enough to not be penetrated with a fingernail before recoating. Apply a light first coat to prevent shocking the finish. Allow this first coat to dry to the touch and then proceed with a normal coat.

• Zero Rust is NOT recommended for use on exterior areas where a finish system will be used. It is best suited to coating underbody areas, inside body panels, floor pans, etc.

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• Zero Rust can be used in hidden areas such as inside doors, deck lids, etc. by thinning from 40 to 50% and pouring it into the cavities. Coat the inner surfaces by rotating the part. Excess can be drained back into a container for future use. Be sure to "mop" up any overflow drips.

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Website I stumbled across. Thought I would share if there was any interest.

http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html

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