Its time to order a front brake kit for my Hemi A body. Looking at kits from various companies. Wilwood has a 12.88 rotor, 6 piston caliper kits that is reasonably priced. Has anyone used this set up, or the 4 piston stuff, how well do they stop?
Thanks

Brakes are ok customer service is awful.

They make a good product. Any of their stuff, properly sized will stop the car. But there is a big difference in weight between different versions and models. If you study their website, you can find a list of all the peices in each kit, the the weight of each peice.

My biggest problem is the lack of floating calipers. I get pretty decent pad knockback on the rear brakes.

Sticking with a front set you should be good with almost anything you order from them.
Mine are the 4 piston...maybe Dynalites??? I picked them up used for the stock 10" drum spindles for the 72 Duster...that way it maintains the narrower track rather than going to the 73 up A body knuckles...
Mine for my 65 B Body are still in the boxes new...Also purchased for the drum spindles...way too much work to do on the car before it's ready for them...
I do know if you go with new rears there are some things that need to be modified to work correctly when using green bearing axles...
The Wilwood plate that bolts to the housing for the caliper mounts and also handles the axle retention needs to have a groove cut in it for the snap ring on the green bearings and you'll need to remove the factory axle retention flange...I found if if the centerline of the caliper lines up perfect with the centerline of the rotor when bolted to the hub everything is lined up correctly...The rears I bought for the Duster were used and there were spacers between the caliper mount and the caliper...cutting a relief in the plate that bolts to the rear for the axle fixed the problem...
When I ordered my rear axles I mentioned to Cass at Dr. Diff what I was using and he was all over it...
He gave me a heads up about the alignment at the rear as I ordered the new axles with no retention plate...
As mentioned earlier fronts were no problem...

What is moving around back there? Can the axle clearance be tightened up a bit?

If you're considering Aerospace Components brakes, their customer service sucks too. I have their brakes on the front of my cuda...they work pretty good, but dealing w/ them for simple replacement/service parts is a pain in the rear.

I’ve shaved the bearing retainer down a bit to try to limit the shafts axial movement. I’ve improved the knock back but it is not fixed. I’ve avoided added piston springs or a check valve to hydraulically bandaid it.

It may be worth making flat bearing retainers to but it’ll take a little r&d to make sure I don’t over preload a green bearing.

A fellow named Andy suggested a kit from DR Diff that uses Viper calipers, The parts look great but Calipers are not available from any auto parts stores (rebuilt), Chrysler has few in stock, cost is around 650 per caliper.

I have a wilwood based big brake kit on my TII rx7, the knock back was pretty bad on the track, every corner I had to pre tap the brakes while gearing down which was tedious. I've since put a residual pressure valve on it, but haven't tried it yet.

You can get a hotter working brake pad with the willwood if you have trouble at high speeds.I have a pro street kit w/vented 11.75" 4 wheel with a hydraulic hand brake n extra caliper on the back for that.

While we don't used the Wilwood system we run there pads similar to Rybestos ST43's on our Chump car w/ C6 brakes. They work great and even after 7 hours of racing they bite hard. No complaints and the pads were about $50 cheaper than the ST43's.